Hi everyone,

Bidets are becoming pretty popular in the US and here at InterNACHI we believe home inspectors need to know more about them. Check out our new article on bidet basics that covers bidet operation, history, and safety precautions. Did you know that “bidet” is a French word meaning “to mount”? In Japan, Italy, and many other places bidets are virtually everywhere and people believe they are more hygienic and effective than toilet paper. See, they aren’t just a sick European fixation!

Enjoy!

- Rob

Hey all

If you want to know more about AFCI indicators, also known as testers, please check out my new article on AFCI Indicators. There, you will find out why many believe they are not truly “testers”, how they work, how they are valuable and how they differ from the test buttons on AFCI circuit breakers.

Enjoy!

- Rob

Home Inspections and Safety Issues

The Home Can Be A Dangerous Place!

There are many systems and pieces of equipment in a home that can cause injury or even death if not respected and maintained. These items include mechanical appliances such as garage doors, combustible equipment such as gas furnaces and fireplaces, pressurized equipment such as water heaters, electrical equipment, trip and fall hazards such as improper stairways, safety glass, firewalls, and many more.

Some safety items can be very serious. A improperly installed TPR (temperature and pressure relief) valve or TPR drain line on a water heater could result in the water heater exploding. Faulty electrical wiring or electrical grounding could result in electrocution or fire. Others items such as the picket spacing on a railing may be of less concern if the home owner has no children living or visiting the home.

Some safety items may not have been known issues or required by building standards when the home was built. Other items such as asbestos or lead may have been installed without any knowledge of the safety issues. Improvements in home construction, upgrades in building standards, innovative new equipment and just plain experience in the housing construction has resulted in home safety constantly changing and improving.

Your home inspection may reference some of these safety items and make recommendations for maintenance, further evaluation, repair or upgrades. Many of these recommendations are just that, recommendations. Older homes are not required to upgrade to newer building standards. It is a home owner’s decision on whether to upgrade and what safety upgrades they choose to implement. Keep in mind that safety items are concerns. There is a risk involved in not implementing repairs or upgrades. No home can be 100% safe but, ultimately, each individual must determine the amount of risk they are willing to assume for themselves and their family.

J. Christopher Weise
Atlanta Home Inspector

Simply following the steps provided in this article will help you survive having your house inspected. Your home inspection is just one more stressful event to add to a likely growing list of events unfolding in the process of selling your home. What with moving, getting the list of needed repairs done, achieving and maintaining that “curb appeal,” the last thing you need is some stranger tromping through your home, looking in all those dark corners. Well, take a deep breath, pick up that last dust bunny under the chair, sit down a moment and read further. I provide real solutions to at least make the Home Inspection part easier.

Please have a clean home

Inspectors are accustomed to dealing with “OPD” (Other Peoples Dirt), however it is always preferable to have a clean home to work in. Don’t worry about a little mess or disorganized clutter. Packing boxes and a little dirt are OK. We do not inspect for cleanliness, however we are human and do not particularly enjoy spending several hours (sometimes on hands and knees in bathrooms) inspecting a foul nest. Even though you are likely tired of keeping things spotless for open houses and potential buyers coming through, please don’t drop the ball on cleaning completely. Extremely dirty homes may be indicative of defects and deferred maintenance.

Windows and doors should all be operable and accessible

It is a great help to have all the windows and doors accessible so I can easily check the condition and operation of them. If you have casement windows and have removed the cranks, please have them available at windows. Open all blinds and curtains for easier access, and if possible move furniture to allow for access. Any breakable or valuable items on window sills should be removed (the inspector will not move them or move furniture).

Turn on all lights and ceiling fans

You may wish to turn all the lights and ceiling fans on in the home just before the inspector arrives. It also helps if you know what all the electrical switches in the home do. The inspector can spend untold time trying to determine what each switch operates. If the inspector wishes to turn on all the lights and fans in your home, please do not follow behind him turning them off (yes, I have had numerous homeowners do this). He has likely done this for the same reason that I do this. Having all the lights on is part of the test of the electrical system to ensure it is checked under a reasonable load. The inspector will turn off the lights and fans when he is done.

Make certain all lights and fans are functional

Have any remote controls for ceiling fans available. If there are inoperable lights and they just need a bulb replaced, the inspector will not know this and does not carry bulbs with him. Inoperable lights will be written up as a defect (why pay an electrician to check them?).

Have all appliances ready for the Inspector to operate

Some inspectors will check appliances, and some do not. Let the inspector start the appliances such as the dishwasher and washing machine. Do not have clothes in the washing machine or clothes dryer (they will need to be removed by the inspector).

Remove your pets

Please be prepared to have your animals gone during the inspection. I like dogs, cats, lizards and most critters, but during an inspection they can be in the way or a nuisance (try doing an inspection with a dog barking every time you move). The inspector also does not want to be responsible for having animals escape from the home and then retrieve them. The opposite side of this coin is a funny short story: I was inspecting a villa that was situated next to a lagoon. I was outside and came in, leaving the sliding door open for just a moment, and when I turned around, a mother duck and her ducklings were proudly waddling in to the villa (I quickly scooted them outside again). Later I had a good laugh and realized just how much they quacked me up. Seriously, I will try not to let any strays in your home.

Inform the inspector if you are to have visitors to the home

Inform the inspector of any expected visitors (if you will not be there) so he can allow them in and not have to worry about whether they should be there or not. Also be prepared if the buyer (and other family members) should elect to attend the inspection. Ask your real estate agent or the buyer’s agent to attend if this occurs (the inspector should not be responsible for others).

Provide access to electrical panel

Please have access provided to your main electrical panel (fuse box or circuit breaker box). The inspector has to remove the panel cover to check the interior components. It is not fun (or safe) to stand in a crowded area and work with electricity. A charred and smoking inspector is not very fragrant either.

Be punctual

If you are meeting the inspector at the home, please be on time. Most of us invest an enormous amount of time for the money earned, and appreciate punctuality. If I am going to be late I will call.

Please have all utilities on, including gas for fireplaces as necessary

Having pilot lights lit will help, since most inspectors will not light pilot lights.

Provide access to attics

Please make certain access is clear and unencumbered to all attic accesses.

All doors should be accessible

Ensure all interior and exterior doors are accessible, and if there are any locked closets or utility type sheds, please provide keys as necessary.

Should I stay or should I go?

This is a good question people often ask me. Usually I like to meet with the owners to ask a few questions. Once I have asked the various questions that help me do my job better, feel free to leave or stay. Most often it makes no difference to me. If you are comfortable with leaving someone in your home, (assuming you will be there) plan on an inspection lasting from 3 to 5 hours on average. Ask your home inspector how long it will take. Most inspectors (including myself) are licensed and bonded.

Alert the Inspector to any safety concerns

If you know of any safety concerns in your home, please let the inspector know. Items such as attic pull down stairs that have a tendency to fall on your head (yes this has happened-ouch!) or perhaps shocking electrical fixtures or receptacles.

Do not ask what defects the inspector has found

Most Inspectors will politely tell you that the home purchaser (who is paying for the report) is the only person he can share that information with. However the inspector should inform you of any known safety concerns that may impact you. Keep in mind that if the inspector gave you the list of defects and you set about to repair them all, you may have repaired some items needlessly. That defective refrigerator or oven may be something the buyer does not care about anyway. He may have plans to replace it. For that reason, you may wish to wait until you have the requested list of repairs from the buyer, before repairing items.

Have your own inspection performed

Consider having your own inspection (pre-listing inspection) before you have a home inspection the buyer has arranged for. You get to choose the home inspector, and there are other benefits. A pre-listing inspection allows you to find out early what repairs might be needed, and to get the repairs done early. This usually is a cost savings, since you can take your time and shop for the best price for the repairs. Having the pre-listing inspection also eliminates a lot of anxiety and stress. It also allows for the home to be more realistically priced in some instances. For example, if you find out the home needs a new roof, but you do not want to invest in a new roof, it is likely you will want to adjust your price accordingly, or at least be prepared for a price reduction. On the plus side, if you get a fairly clean pre-listing home inspection report, you may wish to let your pricing reflect this (raise pricing perhaps). Most buyers will still have their own inspector inspect your home. However it conveys a positive attitude to the buyer when you have your own inspection. Presenting a list of the repaired items is also positive. Simply put, having a pre-Listing inspection can reduce anxiety, save money, and make for a smoother and quicker home sale.

Treat your home inspector as a guest in your home

I do my best to leave each home as I found it, and treat the home and occupants with respect. I know that I am a guest you may not welcome me with open arms. I also know you do not need any additional stress. Offering coffee, a soda, or water is a nice gesture and helps to set a nice tone.

Simply performing some or all of the above steps will help you remove a lot of the stress associated with a home inspection. This article does not take into account fixing or repairing common defects, so you may also want to repair any known defects as you see fit. Best wishes with your home inspection.

John M. Wickline
http://JWInspect.com

Copyright 2009

Ice dams in Massachusetts are a nuisance and can cause expensive damage to soffit areas, roof sheathing, gutters, and the most outer portion of living area walls.  These ice build-ups can be alleviated, but each house tends to have different reasons for the ice to accumulate in the first place.  First, let me explain how this massive ice mound forms on the edge of your roof, then we’ll discuss prevention.

• Your roof accumulates snow.
• The outside temperature drops to below freezing.
• The temperature inside your attic is above freezing, thus raising the temperature of your roofing material to above freezing.
• Because of the temperature differential and the warmer roof, the snow on top of the roof starts to slowly melt and the melted snow (now water) starts to cascade down the roof (underneath all the accumulated snow) in an attempt to drain off the roof or into your gutters.
• As soon as the water reaches the outer edge of the roof (where the roof will not be as warm as the attic cavity) it gets exposed to the freezing air. The cascading water now freezes into an ice mound (that literally clings to your roofing material) along the edges of your roof and the gutters (if applicable).
• As more and more melted snow (water) continues to cascade down your roof, it continues to freeze behind and on top of the previously frozen run off, forming a much larger ice dam. Once this ice dam takes shape, it will literally trap any water that is attempting to drain down and off the roof. Now, all the melting water is dammed and has nowhere to drain to, so it builds up. This accumulating water is simply backing up and is forced right under your roofing material and into your attic or soffit cavity (and then gravity takes over), and this water infiltration simply drips down onto your living area walls, causing the nuisance staining and damage that you are observing throughout your walls.

Preventing this ice from forming on the edge of your roof in the first place is absolutely possible.  Many homeowners are continuously researching articles on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” and they learn that proper insulation and ventilation is necessary to prevent these ice dams. After most homeowners obtain their education on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” they may attempt to correct their ice dam situation, but are still baffled and are unable to figure out exactly where these improvements are needed. That’s why they call me.

The solution to alleviate your ice dam issues is the use of Infrared technology. My infrared inspection is a brilliant method of providing you with an instant snapshot of any active heat loss through the most outer portion of your walls and ceilings of your home. Thermal imaging will visually show thermal mapping of any improperly insulated ceiling and wall cavities that are causing the ice damming at the outer roof edges of your home.

Take a look at the images below and see how easy Infrared detects un-insulated/problematic cavities where ice dams were occurring…

Infrared clearly detects cold air (blue color) infiltrating the living area:

Infrared detects an entire ceiling cavity missing insulation:

Thermal imaging detects cold spots from improperly installed soffit vents:

Infrared detects insulation issues above this bathroom ceiling:

If you have ice dam problems, and Infrared inspection will help you determine the best form of remediation.

It appears there is no shortage of defective products arriving on our shores from China. Recently, attorneys at Morgan & Morgan filed a class action complaint against the manufacturers / distributors of defective Chinese drywall that has allegedly caused electrical damages and health problems for Florida residents.
Shortages in American made drywall products (between 2004 and 2006) prompted some Florida building companies to import drywall from China. It is thought that the drywall was used in new home construction.
As much as 10 million square feet of this defective drywall may have been used in Florida new homes. The defective drywall supposedly emits sulfur compounds, leading to electrical damages and health problems (including respiratory problems, nose bleeds, headaches, and irritated eyes).  The drywall emits a strong sulfur (rotten egg) odor.

More information on the Class Action Lawsuit

Thanks, and be careful what you hang on your walls.  Be safe.

John M. Wickline
JW Home Inspections, Inc.

Most people don’t give any thought to their water heater—they just turn on the faucet and expect hot water to come out.  Keep your water heater in peak operating condition by performing some simple routine maintenance.

One step you can take is to drain your tank.  How often you need to do this depends upon the sediment buildup you are getting in your tank.  Some experts recommend draining once a year.  I recommend draining your tank once, and checking sediment buildup.  Check it six months or a year later and compare the amount of build up to your previous amount.  This will give you an idea on how often you need to drain your tank.  If you have more sediment, you would want to drain more often.  Less sediment, drain less often.  Come up with a good schedule, that will keep your sediment build up to a minimum.

To drain the tank:

• Turn off the power source to the water heater. You do not want it to heat while empty. This is very important. Failure to do so may cause damage to the water heater.
• Turn off the water supply to the tank.
• Locate the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Looks like a hose spigot.
• Connect a hose to this and place the hose in a basement drain or sump.
• If this is the first time you are draining, I recommend running the water through a strainer to judge sediment build up. If you already know your level, continue to the next step.
• Open the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater.
• Most experts recommend draining 3/4 of the water from the tank. If this is the first time I recommend a complete flush.
• Close valve and fill tank.
• Once tank is full turn power source to tank back on.

If you notice lots of sediment at the end of the draining process, you may have to do this several times to clear out the build up.  This is common if this is the first time a unit has been drained in quite a while. Good luck!

If you need to replace your water heater please see Michael Therriault’s Blog.

Recently I sat down with a very successful business person, at my request, to talk about how to become even more successful in business.   While I am acquainted with and admire many successful business people in my area, I really wanted to discuss the dynamics of being successful from this one successful person who started from scratch.  Not an individual who worked themselves up the ladder of good organizations.

As we talked and enjoyed our lunch, I asked what was his one true key to success, if there is only one?  His reply was short, simple, and made great sense.  His reply - “Under promise and over produce”!  Whether that promise involves putting in long hours, learning a new skill, gaining knowledge about client needs, or various other concepts/ideas.  Make your customer #1 so he doesn’t go anywhere else for that type of business.  Of course, he expanded upon this concept with dealings he had starting out and continuing to this day.

Makes sense doesn’t it: under promise - over produce!  We have met many through our dealings who over promised and under produced when we needed or wanted their product or service.  Think back on those experiences and remember how it made us feel.  Not like we were their number one priority did it?  What would we have done different?  How would we have made the situation right?  How could we under promise and over produce?

How do we under promise and over produce?  Here are just a few examples, but don’t stop there:

1. Do not create a deadline for your efforts that you know is unreasonable and unattainable.
2. Know your strengths and weaknesses.  Improve upon both!
3. Don’t be afraid to ask for assistance from others around you.
4. Learn a skill or gain knowledge that can enhance your services to your clients.
5. Set attainable goals for you, your client and the transaction.
6. Deliver on your promise way before it is due!
7. Give outstanding service.

These are some tough times we are going through.  Standing out from the rest is what will make us successful and be the individual people run to for your services; not the person they run from.

All homeowners pay a lot of hard earned dollars to heat and cool their homes today and I know everyone would love to cut the costs of conditioning their homes. With the continuous rise in heating fuel costs, the only ideal way to save money is to locate and seal those breached areas of your home that are stealing your energy dollars. If you are able to retain conditioned air inside your home for a longer period of time, you will be spending much less money on the fuel that is powering your heating system. In a typical home, space conditioning and comfort bills can account for up to one-half of your home’s energy bills, with the remaining portion due primarily to heating your domestic water, interior lighting, and your appliances. Knowing that space conditioning accounts for half your energy bills, I can show you how you can lower this expense now.

What you need is an infrared inspection. An infrared inspection is a brilliant method of providing you with an instant snapshot of active energy losses through the interior walls and ceilings of your home. Thermal imaging will visually show thermal mapping of any damaged, settled or improperly insulated cavities throughout your home. Appreciable temperature differences, (due to variations in thermal energy heat transfer) allow me to determine the adequacy and proper installation of the concealed insulation that is installed throughout your structure’s exterior cavities. I’m able to detect obvious insulation issues while scanning your exterior ceiling and wall surfaces. Deficient insulation is a poor insulator, which makes it a great conductor of your conditioned air, and this is what enables me to easily detect the thermal anomalies in these areas. Any major differentials in surface temperature are going to be the obvious areas that are going to require you to upgrade insulation, in order for you to start saving energy bucks.

Keep in mind that there are always going to be minor air breaches in typical exterior walls and ceilings, due to wood structural members that will conduct exterior air and simply can not be insulated. But, I would like to walk you through your home and literally show you the major areas of concern where excessive air is infiltrating your conditioned living area, causing your energy bills to become sky high.

After pointing out the areas of your home that can be improved, I will be providing you with a professional report which will be highlighting those areas that are in need of an insulation upgrade. You can then use my infrared report as a guide to locate those deficient areas when upgrading or simply hire an insulation contractor who can then utilize my report as a guide to upgrading the insulation defects and fissures.

A visual inspection of this ceiling indicates that nothing is wrong, but my thermal scan reveals missing insulation throughout the outer rim board area.

This children’s room looks fine visually, but my infrared camera reveals missing insulation throughout the top portion of these stud cavities.

Visually, this wall appears to be in great shape, but my infrared scan detects missing insulation behind this attic knee space. This cold air infiltration is as bad as leaving a window ajar.

I was hired to inspect a recent installation of blown-in insulation. Visually, it looks fantastic, but infrared reveals shoddy workmanship.

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST) has been used since 1989. It replaces the traditional iron pipes for plumbing natural and liquid petroleum (LPG) gas throughout the house.  CSST is flexible, easier to install due to fewer connections, and cheaper for the builder to install saving the house buyer money.

As with many new products, several unintended consequences have appeared which must be taken into consideration. These include the high likelihood of damage from lightening, or damage from nails. Since the walls of CSST are easily penetrated, gas leaks can happen more easily.  Many contractors install CSST too close to the roof sheathing, which exposes the CSST to damage when the roofing material is installed or replaced.

Home inspectors need to carefully inspect this plumbing system for proper grounding and protection from damage. The image below shows a roof nail that nearly punctured the CSST.

CSST is under investigation and its installation has already been halted in Massachusettes.

For many home inspectors that are investigating the possibility of purchasing an infrared camera the choices and features of the many cameras on the market can be daunting. Here is a spreadsheet showing some of the more ‘inspector important’ features and specifications. This is not an exhaustive collection of cameras and features but rather a place to start your own due diligence and comparisons. You can Print or Download the file here: IR Camera Comparison

The Texas Real Estate Commission (TREC) recently adopted a newly revised Standards of Practice for Texas Home Inspectors to follow. Numerous significant changes were implemented that will affect how Texas HI’s perform inspections. All Texas inspectors are encourage to download the new SOP from the TREC website, from John Cahill’s website or several other sources. Additionally, here is a short presentation for inspectors or Realtors that describes the highlights and significant changes to the SOP. This “New SOP.pdf file” can be used to brief small audiences on the new SOP.

I know everyone works very hard for their money (in order to pay the bills), but what you don’t realize is how much of your hard earned energy dollars are actually slipping right through the cracks of your home. Keeping your home at a comfort level (by conditioning it) can be very costly. I know everyone would like to reduce their energy bills in our freezing winter months and then again, in the summer cooling months. Well, a good place to start would be a professional infrared home-energy efficiency inspection. An infrared inspection will actually show you where you are wasting your hard earned energy dollars, and at the same time, will demonstrate how you can properly seal those areas that are pulling your energy dollars to the outside of your house.

There are many building envelope anomalies that can generate significant heat and air conditioning loss, which causes your energy dollars to be wasted in a not-so-tight home.

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