Basement framing and moisture.

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Those links are only showing a drainage board, they have to be used in conjunction with a waterproofing backup.
Bituthane 3000 or 4000 is the best waterproofing product I have used.
They use a similar product for drainage board called hydro-duct 220.

Here are a few pictures of the product.









At the very least, you could use a trowel on foundation coating, apply a 6 mill poly over it, cover with a protection board and add the drainage board and pee stone backfill.
That is all assumming that the itegrity of the wall has been checked and/or repaired and the drainage system for perimeter drainage is intact and functioning.

Then finish your basement.

[Roy D. Cooke, Sr]

Good one Marcel Love it Much appreciated ... Roy

[Bruce A. King]

Not all contractors specialize in everything, also a leak is not needed to have future major issues when finishing even what appears to be a dry basement. So he has several issues at hand, specific water intrusion visible, old construction techniques, block wall and trying to finish a utility basement that has loads of non-visible moisture coming in from everywhere. If he puts insulation in that wall I hope he first obtains the elusive 100 percent perfect system. A finished basement with a dehumidifer will scare off many buyers in the future. What is needed is an unfinished storage area along the underground section with the finished room set back towards the rear of the walkout basement.

[Hartweger Construction]

Originally Posted by mcyr

Those links are only showing a drainage board, they have to be used in conjunction with a waterproofing backup.
Bituthane 3000 or 4000 is the best waterproofing product I have used.
They use a similar product for drainage board called hydro-duct 220.

Here are a few pictures of the product.

At the very least, you could use a trowel on foundation coating, apply a 6 mill poly over it, cover with a protection board and add the drainage board and pee stone backfill.
That is all assumming that the itegrity of the wall has been checked and/or repaired and the drainage system for perimeter drainage is intact and functioning.

Then finish your basement.

What is the name/brand of the material used on the second layer and the third layer? What it the best sealant you have had the best luck with? That looks very professional, I like it alot. That is something I will more then likely be doing when I get down to it.

[Hartweger Construction]

Originally Posted by bking

Not all contractors specialize in everything, also a leak is not needed to have future major issues when finishing even what appears to be a dry basement. So he has several issues at hand, specific water intrusion visible, old construction techniques, block wall and trying to finish a utility basement that has loads of non-visible moisture coming in from everywhere. If he puts insulation in that wall I hope he first obtains the elusive 100 percent perfect system. A finished basement with a dehumidifer will scare off many buyers in the future. What is needed is an unfinished storage area along the underground section with the finished room set back towards the rear of the walkout basement.

I had considered boxing in an area on the below grade side as well. Alot of ideas have been floating around that is for sure. If you were to box in an area, how far would you put your first stud wall away from the below grade side? Obviously my goal though is to not do this, but if worst come to worst.. It is going ot take me some time to get ready to be able to even do the exterior waterproofing, but when I do ill be adding an egress window in the front, replacing the water line outside, repouring my driveway and porch, and building a retaining wall all in the same breath. Now that I have laid out a solid game plan for myself for the outside, I can now start to get the plan in motion and make sure I have everything I need ordered, paid for and ready to go before I do any digging.

Still no one commented on my french drain idea with backfilling all clean rock up to the top instead of backfilling with the dirt, negative feedback also welcome on that.

Appreciate the information guys. Thanks for all of your help.

[Gary Farnsworth]

Sure sounds like to me you are fishing for information for a court trial. It is happended here before. Are you an attorney, or a person fishing for an attorney? Concrete block is different from poured concrete. I am done here.

[Robert W. Jude]

furring is NOT structural its a solid shim. use what ever you want. I think you are over thinking this whole project. Here's what I would do:

scrap off anything loose including molds. drylock over any barespots. use pressure treated lumber on bottom plates. frame up walls as you normally would, leave a 1" gap between concrete and wood. insulate with craft faced insulation and drywall. use the vapor barrier if you must. There are as many good reasons to as not to. Definately put a dehumdifier in basement. Always keep it running. you can run drain into sump pit. If dehumidifier is running, everything will remain dry. the vapor barrier would actually HURT by blocking the moisure where the dehidifier will not dry out behind it. (I would not use one)

[Robert W. Jude]

BTW, I have a friend in the basement waterproofing industry and they do guarantee dry basements. Its cutting drains inside along the perimeter and running them to a sump pit. All walls are also drylocked