Time for another garage door opener thread

[Bruce A. King]

For those who want to test as per the published standards:

http://www.dasma.com/safetygdmaint.asp


The 2x4 test AND the arm/hand test are BOTH required on that page but changes made in June 06 actually deleted the hand/arm test from their published service bulletins and tech tips.


For additional entertaiment check out this long and quite entertaining thread

http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_i...-complete.html

[Scott Gilligan, CMI]

You might want to check out the HomeGauge template I created to add to your standard report template that is based off of the DASMA checklists.

[Dale Duffy]

Originally Posted by sgilligan1

You might want to check out the HomeGauge template I created to add to your standard report template that is based off of the DASMA checklists.

I saw that Scott...that was GOOD..I was going to copy it but forgot, where is that post at, if you don't mind me asking....so I can put it in my Template.

[Bruce A. King]

I edited the original post with information about DASMA's conflicting documents and the deletion of the hand/arm test in June 06.

[Bruce A. King]

Someone on IN has now found that wayne dalton has instructions for checking and adjusting the FORCE SETTINGS in their owners manual(s) (Have not checked every manual)

So, DASMA has removed that check when at least one manuf. has it.

Looks like home inspectors cause too many call backs for the DASMA members so they created test instructions for us that leave out one of the most important items. Jeezzz.


Don't use only the DASMA inspection process unless you want additional liability.

Also, be careful with using your arm/hand to test doors, stand outside the garage and do not apply much pressure. If it keeps going, fine, just write it up as needing service by a knowledgable person. All opener techs are not knowledgable on this so be careful just recommending them.

If you don't feel comfortable checking these doors (cars present or old/weak/loose looking door) then disclaim it and recommend a knowledgeable person do it under the right circumstances.

[Christopher Currins]

How about the paper towel test? I've seen this on different manufactures sites.





A simple test you can perform to be sure that your door is adjusted properly is to start the door closing and then place an unopened roll of paper towels underneath it. The bottom of the door should contact the paper towels, compress it slightly, stop, and then reverse. If it doesn't, your door needs to be adjusted. You can do that yourself by checking your owner's manual, or you can call a professional

[rbrady]

I found it difficult to judge the downward force using my arms. I prefer to step under the door and let it hit my shoulder. It is easier for me to judge the amount of force, although some older women think that I am about to get crushed!! This also allows me to watch the guide rail and motor for movement/flexing. If the force becomes too great, or there is too much flex in the rail or motor brackets I get out. If you are quick enough you should be able to get under the door while still standing completely upright, giving you plenty of room to get out of the way.

I believe that a garage door should not have any more downward force than necessary to close the door.

Disclaimer: Use this method at your own risk. It works for me, it might not work for you.

[Bruce A. King]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

How about the paper towel test? I've seen this on different manufactures sites.





A simple test you can perform to be sure that your door is adjusted properly is to start the door closing and then place an unopened roll of paper towels underneath it. The bottom of the door should contact the paper towels, compress it slightly, stop, and then reverse. If it doesn't, your door needs to be adjusted. You can do that yourself by checking your owner's manual, or you can call a professional

Bad test, all doors will squish a wimpy roll of towels.
Then are you going to reuse the now weakened roll on the next door?


Learn what a correct door feels like, it may take some inspectors a year to gain the feel but its important to do this or disclaim it due to lack of knowledge or fear of damage.

Use bathroom scales (analog ones) and practice on your own door while making adjustments..

[whandley]

DASMA is a great site, but most homeowners will be reviewing the OEM site and or safety installation documentation included with their units. I've not seen any recent OEM specs which refer to the arm test.

They all seem to agree:

1. 2" x 4" board flat under center of door.
2. Wall control switch 5' minimum above adjacent floor.
3. Opticals 4" to 6" above the floor/slab surfaces.

[Peter Doane]

Originally Posted by rbrady

I found it difficult to judge the downward force using my arms. I prefer to step under the door and let it hit my shoulder. It is easier for me to judge the amount of force, although some older women think that I am about to get crushed!! This also allows me to watch the guide rail and motor for movement/flexing. If the force becomes too great, or there is too much flex in the rail or motor brackets I get out. If you are quick enough you should be able to get under the door while still standing completely upright, giving you plenty of room to get out of the way.

I believe that a garage door should not have any more downward force than necessary to close the door.

Disclaimer: Use this method at your own risk. It works for me, it might not work for you.

I don't believe in getting in the way or under anything moving. But if there are no motion sensors,... I grab an interior handle or frame member with my finger tips (arm straight down at the side of my body) if it pulls out of my finger tips, I recommend adjustments. I never place objects in the path, including your own body.

[Bruce A. King]

Originally Posted by whandley

DASMA is a great site, but most homeowners will be reviewing the OEM site and or safety installation documentation included with their units. I've not seen any recent OEM specs which refer to the arm test.

They all seem to agree:

1. 2" x 4" board flat under center of door.
2. Wall control switch 5' minimum above adjacent floor.
3. Opticals 4" to 6" above the floor/slab surfaces.

Check out wayne dalton opener instructions.

Also this site which has DASMA info on it has the force setting test (arm test):
http://www.garagedooropeners.com/Scr...a.asp?extra=26