Comp shingles: step flashing VS continuous

I often see continuous flashing installed at roof to wall junctions instead of step flashing. It’s incorrect, but I’ve never found leaks I could blame on this type of installation. Has anyone?

yes
i’ll see if i can locate in/out photo

The requirement for multiple step flashing baby tins sometimes baffles me too, because when I have installed concrete and clay tile roofs intersecting a side wall, the flashings are fabricated to ideally run the full length of the length of the wall.

Same principal, but a different method.

Ed

Can you point me to the reference that requires step flashing?

Ed are you talking about what they call Z metal counterflashing and a Pan flashing used with concrete and clay tile roofs?

They are continuous up and down the roof and the pan flashing is made so water will be troughed away from it’s 6" edge and down the bottom of the eave, it is extended a couple of inches , cut and tucked under the pan to divert water away from the wall. I guess that would be called Carl’s Diverter. ha. ha.

Marcel :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

Kenton, how are you?

The flashing your looking for is as Ed is describing if it is not shingles. You will find it deep in here.
http://www.abouthomes.info/files/ICBO.pdf

There might be another possibility, that if it is a shingle roof, that the continuous flashing had that bubble or hem in it to prevent the water from going under the shingles similar to clay tile.

Marcel :slight_smile:
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Hi. John;

That is reference under the IRC R905.2.8.4 sidewall flashing

Flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be by the step-flashing method.

It is also referenced in R703.7.5, R703.8, R903.2.

Hope this helps.

Marcel :slight_smile: :smiley:

Marcel,

I was referring to the individual baby tin flashings where one individual 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" X 7" goes under each course of shingles where it abutts a side wall.

On tile roofs, this underneath flashing is usually a continuous piece, with a hem bent to channel the downward water flowage.

Ed

Hi. Ed;

Not familiar with the term baby thins, would you have a picture of it or are you talking about the regular step flashing?

Marcel :slight_smile:

Baby thins only go up the wall half as far as they need to!

Carl, is that you? It says you are not a Member.

If that is what they call baby thins, let us leave for the baby and use the right size step flashing. ha. ha.

Marcel :slight_smile:

I like continuous side wall flashing myself…if the installer is sharp enough to keep the material being flashed on the roof…:smiley:

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i247/badstucco1/RudiKopec006.jpg

Same principle with shingles, a 8" or 10" L-Flashing installed against the framing and roof decking.

Kenton,

I would blame the installer, not the flashing…:smiley:

yes! I am kinda behind now.

And there is a time and place for all flashings.

The problem I have with the (baby thins) Stucco is suppose to be atleast 2 inches off the roof they do no allow for that application.

And the roofers use them everywhere!

Ditto Dale!!

Carl, I know the feeling, tis the time of year.

Merry Christmas to you and your family.

2" vertical flashing would not perform well of here for roof to wall. When we do flat roofs, the membranes go up the wall 18" and 12" exposed if you have siding on the walls.

Marcel :slight_smile:

See if this explains the difference
Manual Elements | May 2005 | Professional Roofing Magazine

of the step flashing will direct this water onto the roof surface, preventing it Step flashing is recommended for use with asphalt shingles, slate and
www.professionalroofing.net/article.aspx?A_ID=646

And they want the underlayment up run up the wall to! All we get around here is the baby tins where they use step flashing!:shock:
They would crap a brick if you told them to run the tarpaper up the wall behind the step flashing!:wink:

Thanks Marcel! The same to you and yours!

I will be back!

And they want the underlayment up run up the wall to! All we get around here is the baby tins where they use step flashing!:shock:
They would crap a brick if you told them to run the tarpaper up the wallbehind the step flashing!:wink:

What is referred to in the Professional Roofing article, is what I and anyone else in the midwest, refer to, as “Baby Tins”, not “t h ins”.

I usually add to that by calling them, Baby Tin Base Step Flashings, to avoid confusion with the truer “Step Flashings”, which most roofers would consider to be the stepped counter flashings, which get embedded into the masonry surface as a top covering flashing for the lower base step flashing, which is installed at roof level, where the shingles abutt a side wall.

Also,as a side note regarding that concrete tile installation not secured to the top row.

The roofing contractor is probably not soley to blame.

What probably happened, is the general contractor had the stucco/drivit crew install the roof to wall apron flashing along with their installation of the exterior insulating finish system coating.

Actually, the stucco/drivit subcontractor tried to not screw the roofer around too muchm since it seems as if the height of the spacing for the tile to fit in was a tight, yet consistant fit.

What unwittingly occurred, is that the roofing contractor now had no opportinity to install his uppermost batten board and secure it to the decking, without bending the hecl out of the sheet metal and cracking the EIFS wall covering.

The roofer did not either have the necessary knowledge or conscientiousnous, to point this out to the GC and continued on, thinking that no one would notice and that they would not move.

He should minimally have anchored copper clips to the decking, above the 2nd to last course of tile, and then installed thetop row of tile, and then bent back the heavy guage clips to secure the bottom edge of the tile in place. But, that would have stuck out and would have wound up being a cosmetic punch list for the roofing contractor, through no fault of his own, had to deal with those circumstances.

The other alternative, would have been to line up the nailing holes with the sheet metal roof to wall apron flashing, and then use a whitney punch to pop out a hole, just slightly larger than the screw diameter you would be using, and use wood tek neoprene gasketed screws with a hex head and a washer, and slowly screw them into place through the sheet metal and then through the concrete tile nailing holes.

Don’t prejudge whose fault the final product installation is, inless you are aware of the circumstances.

I know, I have been there many times, where I had to come up with a creative adaptive solution, instead of faking it just to make it look right temporarily.

Ed

edit:
P.S. Just as an additional water-proofing protective barrier, I always run Grace Ice and Water Shield up on the vertical wall surfaces prior to the installation of any baby tin base step flashings.