International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Exterior Inspections Contains discussions about the exterior portion of a home inspection. This includes roofs, gutters, downspouts, decks, patios, windows, etc. |
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#16
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Carl, I know the feeling, tis the time of year.
Merry Christmas to you and your family. 2" vertical flashing would not perform well of here for roof to wall. When we do flat roofs, the membranes go up the wall 18" and 12" exposed if you have siding on the walls. Marcel LEED Green Associates InachiAwardsPortal: Inachi US Member of the Year Award 2009 |
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#17
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Please Note:
Bob Givens is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Quote:
Manual Elements | May 2005 | Professional Roofing Magazine ... of the step flashing will direct this water onto the roof surface, preventing it ... Step flashing is recommended for use with asphalt shingles, slate and ... www.professionalroofing.net/article.aspx?A_ID=646 |
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#18
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Please Note:
Carl Brown is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
And they want the underlayment up run up the wall to! All we get around here is the baby tins where they use step flashing!
They would crap a brick if you told them to run the tarpaper up the wall behind the step flashing! Thanks Marcel! The same to you and yours! I will be back! |
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#19
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Please Note:
Ed Fako is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
What is referred to in the Professional Roofing article, is what I and anyone else in the midwest, refer to, as "Baby Tins", not "t h ins".
I usually add to that by calling them, Baby Tin Base Step Flashings, to avoid confusion with the truer "Step Flashings", which most roofers would consider to be the stepped counter flashings, which get embedded into the masonry surface as a top covering flashing for the lower base step flashing, which is installed at roof level, where the shingles abutt a side wall. Also,as a side note regarding that concrete tile installation not secured to the top row. The roofing contractor is probably not soley to blame. What probably happened, is the general contractor had the stucco/drivit crew install the roof to wall apron flashing along with their installation of the exterior insulating finish system coating. Actually, the stucco/drivit subcontractor tried to not screw the roofer around too muchm since it seems as if the height of the spacing for the tile to fit in was a tight, yet consistant fit. What unwittingly occurred, is that the roofing contractor now had no opportinity to install his uppermost batten board and secure it to the decking, without bending the hecl out of the sheet metal and cracking the EIFS wall covering. The roofer did not either have the necessary knowledge or conscientiousnous, to point this out to the GC and continued on, thinking that no one would notice and that they would not move. He should minimally have anchored copper clips to the decking, above the 2nd to last course of tile, and then installed thetop row of tile, and then bent back the heavy guage clips to secure the bottom edge of the tile in place. But, that would have stuck out and would have wound up being a cosmetic punch list for the roofing contractor, through no fault of his own, had to deal with those circumstances. The other alternative, would have been to line up the nailing holes with the sheet metal roof to wall apron flashing, and then use a whitney punch to pop out a hole, just slightly larger than the screw diameter you would be using, and use wood tek neoprene gasketed screws with a hex head and a washer, and slowly screw them into place through the sheet metal and then through the concrete tile nailing holes. Don't prejudge whose fault the final product installation is, inless you are aware of the circumstances. I know, I have been there many times, where I had to come up with a creative adaptive solution, instead of faking it just to make it look right temporarily. Ed edit: P.S. Just as an additional water-proofing protective barrier, I always run Grace Ice and Water Shield up on the vertical wall surfaces prior to the installation of any baby tin base step flashings. |
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#20
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Please Note:
Carl Brown is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
What probably happened, is the general contractor had the stucco/drivit crew install the roof to wall apron flashing along with their installation of the exterior insulating finish system coating.
Then it is on the General contractors baby! He should of had his ducks in a row and had the roofer there before the stucco contractor ever stepped foot on the job! That is not part of the stucco contractors job! |
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#21
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Please Note:
Carl Brown is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
A couple of reasons I said what I said is!
The roof if tile should be installed for the most part to get the building use to the weight before the stucco is done. And the sheetrock installed for the same reason and to keep from cracking the stucco when it is installed. |
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#22
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Please Note:
mthomas2 is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Quote:
http://www.professionalroofing.net/p...esidential.asp |
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#23
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Please Note:
Ed Fako is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Quote:
The stucco/drivit contractor did the best that he could. The GC should have at least had the tile roof installer get the roof battens installed so the hubs could latch on to the top batten. It becomes the stucco/drivit contractors job, if he wants to install his wall finishing product without future damage from an externally applied roof to wall apron flashhing. I said, the stucco/drivit contractor did the best that he could, allowing for what he thought needed to be allowed for. Ed |
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#24
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I was actually thinking of step-flashing for comp. shingles at roof to wall. Continuous pan flashing is OK with tiles at this area. 'Course they should both have counterflashing extending up behind the ext. wall covering.
Kenton Shepard, InterNACHI member # 04082383 Certified Master Inspector (CMI) InterNACHI Director of International Development Director of Green Building EXPERT WITNESS SERVICE Conventional and Log homes (303) 717-8940
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#25
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Universal manufacturer's recommendations. Best practices. It's always required.
Kenton Shepard, InterNACHI member # 04082383 Certified Master Inspector (CMI) InterNACHI Director of International Development Director of Green Building EXPERT WITNESS SERVICE Conventional and Log homes (303) 717-8940
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