What would you say about this trim board, over the flashing at the wall/roof junction?
Thanks!
Siding close or in contact with roof and the presence of and condition of the flashing could not be determined. Siding in close contact or incorrect flashing can allow water to penetrate the structure and cause serious and expensive structural damage. A qualified contractor should remove trim, examine the condition of the flashing and make whatever repairs are needed.
How big of a deal I make of this depends on what I see elsewhere and the clients attitude. I’d pay close attention to water issues inside in that location.
That gutter could also use a kick out flashing.
Thanks!
You don’t need to remove the trim board to determine if there is flashing.
If one is questioning how high the flashing goes up the wall then that is wrong…otherwise we can start questioning the nail pattern on the hidden sheathing.
The board should not be laying on the shingles however I would consider the year of the home and the condition of the trim and base my recommendation upon that.
If the house is 15 years old and there is no problem then why pray tale make a problem out of one that doesn’t exist? (which is why many GC’s find some HI to be incompetent…not saying that question isn’t valid…I think all questions in regards to Inspections are valid…some of the answers can be on the fringes)
By the way what year was the house and what was the condition of the wood.
(If a HI is going to call something out then he/she should have a reason other then they don’t like the way it looks…I hope you probed the trim and checked for moisture).
A kick out would be nice…however the roof is small and I suspect there is a 12- 18 inch overhang above same.
Jeff
In this video](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrXjNmbxrpM) you can see what happens when the flashing isn’t done properly!
IMO, you are looking for trouble if you don’t specifically disclaim your ability to determine the condition or adequacy of the flashings (if any) or the likelihood of leaks at each and every such location, both verbally at the time the inspection and in your report.
I’m with Jeff. I’d point out that wood was in contact with the shingles, but I’d also say no decay was observed. Advise the homeowner to monitor it annually for decay and correct it on the next re-roof. Something like that.
A large % of the time flashing is not visible, especially if you are inspecting a roof from the ground. Just because trim covers it doesn’t mean it isn’t there.
I would like to know what type of siding that is. It almost looks like Hardie plank, notice the grain pattern on the trim boards matches the grain on the siding. If this is true there most likely will not be any visible rot and further investigation may be warranted.
Actually it looks like T-111 siding… if so, its been around since the 70’s…it comes in both pine and cedar.
Jeff.
I was referring to a particular brand of Hardiplank, I placed a bid on a commercial project a few years back and thought it was like a T-111 but what I was thinking of actually was Hardie board and batten. Comes in 4X8 sheets and all the trim has the same grain pattern.
Not Hardie Board just the standard Kansas City siding, that rots!!!
“Maintain paint and keep sealed”.
John Kogel
allsafehome.ca
I’m pretty sure that’s Masonite siding with a Protrim trim board… same material basically. They’re engineered compressed fiber products with a relatively thin veneer that won’t stand up to extended contact with moisture.
The veneer along the lower edge of teh trim board will eventually peel, exposing the compressed material to moisture, which will then swell and look ugly.
I’d call the lack of kickout, mention that the trim should have been held up a minimum of 1 1/2 " and I’d lift a couple of shingle tabs to make sure there was step flashing at the sidewall.