International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Exterior Contains discussions about the exterior portion of a home inspection. This includes roofs, gutters, downspouts, decks, patios, windows, et cetera. |
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#1
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Please Note:
Rick Vollmer is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
I am having some back-hoe work done next week. I want them to go around the foundation (about 250 foot) and dig down to about 24 inches with a 8" bucket. I am going this deep because I have a feeling that the house might be sitting on a natural spring. At the end of each line they will dig a hole 3' x 3' to be used as dry wells.
My question' are 1) how would you recommend the placement of gravel? I'm thinking about 3" on the bottom and the put the pipe (covered with fabric filter) and then more gravel to about three inches from top and back fill with dirt. 2) would you use plastic 4" drain pipe or something stronger due to the weight of the gravel? I hope I explained this well enough so you can get the idea. Many thanks in advance for any input. |
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#2
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
What your thinking about doing isn`t going to help much,if any.
A possible underground spring would still exist. Just my 2 cents. 'If' you have some sort of water/moisture intrusion in basement-crawl you need to first, find how/where the water is getting in and then fix/repair whatever the problem turns out to be correctly. Many have exterior cracks,loose-cracked parging and this is where water/moisture often first enters,would need exterior waterproofing not a french drain. Some just have x amount of leaky rod holes in poured walls,these can fix fixed on the inside. Some have openings/gaps in-around-under basement windows/ledges or around-under doors and thats where water can also first enter. Sometimes there are open mortar joints and other times some only need to snake the lateral line and/or need an adjustment or replace an existing sump pump.French drain won`t solve these possible problems. Someone TRIED running underground pipe here,didn`t solve anything. Ran from back of house towards front.We`ve seen many like this. http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/A...8283_111847456 http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailsh...283_111847456/ Have done many jobs/homes built along Lake St Clair,was no high water table problem/hydrostatic pressure problem as many inside co`s often claim. Most had problems like this http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailsh...283_111847456/ If thats what you choose to do............. Instead of using equipment, you could have it hand dug. Would be alot less grass etc that gets messed up. Find/mark any-all underground lines. At the 2' depth your talking about,the plastic should be fine. SEE.... 'Selecting Perf Pipe' http://www.oxfordplasticsinc.com/perforatedpipe.htm ....'we do not recommend the use of flex.plastic pipe at depths GREATER than 1.2 meters'/weight of backfill could collapse pipe Yep, you could put a few inches of gravel in, then the pipe,then more gravel.Filter fabric is not going to keep all soil particles outta pipe regradless of some claims,have pulled many underground piping out (french drains) that was covered w/fabric-sock-whatever and was either partially or fully clogged with roots/mud etc. GL |
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#3
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Rick, listen to Mark, err...John, he knows what he's talking about.
____________________________________________ "An Education, not just an Inspection" Larry Kage Lake Ann (Traverse City), Michigan 49650 231 929 3525 Professional Inspector and Infrared Thermographer serving the Traverse City, Michigan area and beyond. ITC/FLIR CERTIFIED BUILDING SCIENCES THERMOGRAPHER ITC/FLIR CERTIFIED LEVEL 1 THERMOGRAPHER
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