Please post questions about anything having to do with roofing

[Bill Smith]

A follow up question -
If arch shingles are installed over a previous layer, does that represent a non-recommended means of installation that could void a manufacturers warranty?

[Gregory A. Liebig]

What type of shingle is this? It's an interlocking composite shingle that I've seen used on many farmhouses. I just don't know the correct name and the approximate age. It's a whole lot more substantial than common 3-tab shingles. Any help would be appreciated.

You can ignore the trees growing in the gutters. All ready noted!

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by gliebig

What type of shingle is this? It's an interlocking composite shingle that I've seen used on many farmhouses. I just don't know the correct name and the approximate age. It's a whole lot more substantial than common 3-tab shingles. Any help would be appreciated.

You can ignore the trees growing in the gutters. All ready noted!

It's a "T-lock" shingle, Greg. They're common in areas which get a lot of wind.

[Christopher Currins]

How do you like this step flashing?

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

How do you like this step flashing?

I don't like picture #1. It looks like step flashing is missing and not installed correctly.
In photo #2 I don't see step flashing at the top or bottom of the chimney sidewall and am not sure that step flashing is actually overlapped. The flashing at thsi chimney does not look right.

It's not installed correctly. I'd call it out as a defective installation. Recommend that a qualified roofing contractor other than the one who installed it correct it.

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by kshepard

I don't like picture #1. It looks like step flashing is missing and not installed correctly.
In photo #2 I don't see step flashing at the top or bottom of the chimney sidewall and am not sure that step flashing is actually overlapped. The flashing at thsi chimney does not look right.

It's not installed correctly. I'd call it out as a defective installation. Recommend that a qualified roofing contractor other than the one who installed it correct it.

Thanks Kenton, it did not look like normal install to me. I thought it might be a new-fangled way. The trick might be to get a different roofer, a 1 year warranty and the same builder is still building in this development.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

Thanks Kenton, it did not look like normal install to me. I thought it might be a new-fangled way.

"New-fangled" is what the installer might claim, Chris.

[Frank Albert]

The apron on the front does NOT extend past , or even to the corners, so the step flashing could overlap it. That's 2 leaks.
THe cricket valleys do NOT extend past the rear corners to send water away from the chimney. That's 2 more leaks.

Need to remove some siding and start over. About $800.

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Originally Posted by kshepard

Good idea to lift a few shingle tabs and see how the joints align. Not installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations, meaning any warranty might be void.

While removing a skylight last week, I thought this would be the place to share these pics.



No underlayment paper on this 2-5 year old roof.



Why bother cutting shingles the right lenght, just lap them. ha. ha.



Marcel

[Frank Albert]

Lack of underlay will not cause a roof failure. I see that the nails were installed properly. Why was the SL being removed?

This ought to blow yer mind. I've never see afailure caused by Dutch-Lapping the shingles. Slates are often installed that way.
So, I called Elk and asked them. They said it was OK, and then " Speaking off the record", was told they preferred it.

I did my whole house that way. The look sells many other jobs like it.

Elk rep said it was different than weaving valleys.

[Frank Albert]

One of my valleys.

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Originally Posted by Frank Albert

Lack of underlay will not cause a roof failure. I see that the nails were installed properly. Why was the SL being removed?

This ought to blow yer mind. I've never see afailure caused by Dutch-Lapping the shingles. Slates are often installed that way.
So, I called Elk and asked them. They said it was OK, and then " Speaking off the record", was told they preferred it.

I did my whole house that way. The look sells many other jobs like it.

Elk rep said it was different than weaving valleys.

Frank, I made no mention of roof failure for the lack of roofing underlayment.
This was an IKO Cambridge 30 and IKO strongly reccomends installation of IKO #15 felt for an underlayment.

Lapping of the shingles is not part of their installation procedures when you get to a dormer instead of butting the shingle to shingle and allow the self-sealing tabs work as designed.

In these neck of the woods, a roofing underlayment is your second line of defense against water intrusions caused by high winds and ice damming.

Marcel

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Frank has mentioned before that lack of underlayment will not cause failure, and technically, that is true. Lack of underlayment is not the cause of shingle failure. Aging or damage or manufacturing defects or some combination of the three is the cause of shingle failure.

Lack of underlayment deprives the roof of a secondary backup against moisture intrusion once the shingles age and begin to fail, allowing wind-driven rain and drainage runoff to get past the shingles and... if there's no underlayment, leak right into the home.

If you see no underlayment, call it out as a potential problem and a possible installation defect depending on the roof pitch.

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Borrowed from Certainteed's manual;

Water-resistant underlayment was originally invented to keep the roof decking dry until shingles could be applied. Applying this underlayment was originally called "drying-in-the roof."
It was also useful as a separation sheet between the roof sheathing boards (before OSB and plywood sheets were used as roof decking) and the asphalt shingles.
This was important because resin pockets in the pine planks caused the asphalt to degrade prematurely unless the underlayment separated the resin and asphalt from each other.

Underlayment is used under asphalt shingles for a variety of reason, such as providing:
Backup for water-shedding protection of the deck if shingles fail from wind-driven rain. The lower the slope, the more important underlayment is, since water flow more easily under shingles on low slopes.

A protective barrier to the elements between the time the old shingles have been torn off and prior to the new shingle being applied. However, the underlayment should not be relied on as a temporary roof system, especially when the drip edge flashing is not yet in place. It is unlikely to prevent leaking in the event of heavy rain.

An agent to hide minor imperfections of the decking material and reduce "picture framing" of deck panels

Fire ratings (Class A) when used in conjunction with shingles.

Marcel

[Frank Albert]

My bad. I read/took it wrong on the underlay comment. Good replies by Marcel and Kenton. They stated my unstated thought well.
And yes, I do disagree with lapping shingles when working around something if you're butting the rest of the roof.

I get in heated discussons with other roofers that seem to depend on underlay as a primary defense against the weather. Many, many, many 'roofers' and roof company owner now state that call-backs have drastically dimished since they started using I&W shield on nearly everything, from valleys to pipe penetrations.
My experience is that a good installer should be able to waterproof with nearly anything, slate or shingles, to defy most hurricanes. Many manufacturers deny any liability after winds reach 55mph .

I hope I clarified myself abit better. I leave so much unsaid or 'mis-spoke'.