Please post questions about anything having to do with roofing

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by mcyr

I don't know if this one may help.

Maybe Kenton can use it.

http://www.a-actionhomeinspection.co...0-%20Roofs.pdf

Marcel

Thanks Marcel, I saw that one, but a lot of what I saw there I've never seen used in actual practice.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by lkage

...Picture four doesn't even look like ice and water shield.

What quality!

Looks like bituthene.

[Peter C. Russell]

Originally Posted by bhamilton

Here's one:
What's the difference between using 15# or 30# felt, where each one should be used and why?

15# felt is used after you drink 15 beers of course, the same for 30# for 30 beers

[Larry D. Kage]

Originally Posted by kshepard

Looks like bituthene.

I see mineral surface in pic 4...

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Originally Posted by prussell

15# felt is used after you drink 15 beers of course, the same for 30# for 30 beers

Peter, after 15, I think they care about the weight of the paper felt.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by prussell

15# felt is used after you drink 15 beers of course, the same for 30# for 30 beers

30# is recommended by experienced roofers because you don't feel the pain when you hit the ground.

[Dennis Crookshanks]

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbraun
Is the ice shield applied over or under the drip edge? Rake edge?

Over on the eve, under on the rake.


Ice and water shield should be applied under the drip edge and a few inches down the fascia/gutter board and behind the gutter. This protects the fascia board / roof sheathing intersection from ice and water backup. You can always put a small strip over the drip for extra protection.

http://roofersreview.com/v/Roofing+I...f+Edge+Detail/

hope that helps

Dennis

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by Dennis Crookshanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by kbraun
Is the ice shield applied over or under the drip edge? Rake edge?

Over on the eve, under on the rake.


Ice and water shield should be applied under the drip edge and a few inches down the fascia/gutter board and behind the gutter. This protects the fascia board / roof sheathing intersection from ice and water backup. You can always put a small strip over the drip for extra protection.

http://roofersreview.com/v/Roofing+I...f+Edge+Detail/

hope that helps

Dennis

Dennis, here are the drawings from their site which seem to show the membrane over the metal, but the Grace tech I spoke with told me it didn't matter. She said you could run the Ice & Water Shield first, install the drip edge, then install a narrow strip over the uphill side of the drip edge to seal it, or install the drip edge first and lap the Ice & Water Shield over the top.






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[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by bhamilton

Here's one:
What's the difference between using 15# or 30# felt, where each one should be used and why?

Installed correctly and kept protected it doesn't make any difference. 30# will resist damage better during installation of the roof-covering mateial and protect the roof longer if for some reason it should become exposed to weather.

[Dean A. Conrad]

Kenton,

Does extractive bleeding, or bleed-through, on asphalt shingles reduce the life of the roof? How about staining from black algae?

Thanks,

Dean Conrad

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by dconrad

Kenton,

Does extractive bleeding, or bleed-through, on asphalt shingles reduce the life of the roof? How about staining from black algae?

Thanks,

Dean Conrad

Going to have to wait for the techies to get back on Monday to get an for-sure answer on that one.

Unless either of these could somehow deteriorate the bond between asphalt and granule, or deteriorate the adhesive strip or asphalt layer itself, which I don't think either can, I doubt it.
Because algae growth is a sign of high moisture levels and algae itself would tend to hold moisture against the shingle, some moisture damage might result. Organic shingles, especially old, dry ones might tend to absorb moisture into the mat unevenly, which could cause deformation like curling, cupping or clawing.

Shingles are available with granule coatings formulated with copper. These coatings are very effective in preventing the growth of algae. When these kinds of granules get washed into the gutter, in the presence of standing water they cause galvanic corrosion which deteriorates metal gutters.

If you work in an area in which algae is not unusual, and you see a condition which might encourage the growth of algae on shingles but don't see any, pay attention to the condition of the gutters. It's especially important that gutters on roofs with copper-coated granules drain correctly.

[ccurrins]

Originally Posted by bhamilton

Here's one:
What's the difference between using 15# or 30# felt, where each one should be used and why?

One is 3-tab usually require 15# and roll roofing requires 30#.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

One is 3-tab usually require 15# and roll roofing requires 30#.

I looked at installation instructions for GAF/ELK, Owens Corning, and Certainteed and none of them specified a weight.

The IRC requirements are as follows:
Asphalt shingles- 15#
Clay and concrete tile- 30#.
Roll roofing- 15#
Slate- 15#
Shakes & shingles- 15#

[Frank Albert]

Interesting diagrams. None show the older, more correct way of extending the first roof plank 1/2" OVER the fascia. That was a fool-proof method to protect the fascia and keep water from behind the gutter. That was in the days when the carpenter and roof worked together to produce a system. Sad.

[Frank Albert]

"Is Ice Guard an adequate substitute for drip edge flashing?" The shingles neede to hang over 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". Then, I&W and DE would have been moot points. I&W is strictly a back-up for ice damming situations. Mostly, nowadays, it's a cure-all. And isn't supposed to have anything to do with keeping the weather out.