Please post questions about anything having to do with roofing

[Ed Fako]

Okay then, here is an easy one, but one that is done incorrectly most of the time.

Why can't chimney or wall flashing be composed of just one piece, comprising the roof surface and the wall surface?

If that doesn't make any sense, then another way to ask the question is; What is the purpose of the secondary piece of sheet metal, called the Counter-Flashing for?



Other questions related:

What are the approved methods of attaching or securing sheet metal flashings to a masonry structure? What could be observed as being wrong with a non-conforming method of attachment?



Next:
When looking for a roof leak near a chimney chase, where would one need to inspect to verify all possibilities of the source of the leak?



What is the minimum length for the nails to be, to attach a Ridge Vent to the wood decking? Would it vary if the decking were 1/2" plywood or 1" x 6" plank board decking?



What is the maximum recommended width of plank board decking to be used for a roof deck? What could go wrong and what type of problems could arise if the boards are wider?



What is the weak point of stepped counter-flashing, when individual step pieces are utilized?



Why should an inspection include looking into the interior of a sheet metal chimney surround, aka, chimney housing?



When looking at leaks emanating from a masonry chimney, why should the top of the chimney be looked at?



What is wrong with an ODE Drip edge metal being used along the eave edge, especially when there is an existing gutter in place or there is the intention to install one?



Now, just for a point of clarification, are you seeking more residential roofing questions or are flat roof applications for commercial and/or industrial buildings also being sought?

Ed

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Okay then, here is an easy one, but one that is done incorrectly most of the time.

Why can't chimney or wall flashing be composed of just one piece, comprising the roof surface and the wall surface?

If that doesn't make any sense, then another way to ask the question is; What is the purpose of the secondary piece of sheet metal, called the Counter-Flashing for?Ed

Step flashing provides a shingle effect which greatly reduces the chances of runoff finding it's way back beneath the shingles and through the roof deck, expecially if the underlayment ends at a sidewall instead of running up the sidewall a short distance.
Any water getting underneath a peice of step flashing wil be diverted onto the top of the step flashing in the course immediately below. If flashing is continuous, it can run beneath the flashing until it finds its way back to the roof deck sidewall junction where it's more likely to leak.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

What are the approved methods of attaching or securing sheet metal flashings to a masonry structure? What could be observed as being wrong with a non-conforming method of attachment?Ed

Flashing (actually, more usually counter-flashing) can be installed into mortar joints or into slots cut into masonry with a grinder. "Non-conforming" usually means sealant, which eventually dries, shrinks, cracks and LEAKS!

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Next:
When looking for a roof leak near a chimney chase, where would one need to inspect to verify all possibilities of the source of the leak?Ed

The cap is a potential leak are but the most likely place is where the chase (chimney) penetrates the roof. Failed or improper flashing is most likely the culprit. Depending on the exterior covering material it may go through any crack it can find, including corner trim in chimneys with siding.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

What is the minimum length for the nails to be, to attach a Ridge Vent to the wood decking? Would it vary if the decking were 1/2" plywood or 1" x 6" plank board decking?Ed

Depends on the type of ridge vent installed. Nails should be long enough to securely hold the ridge vent into place.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

What is the maximum recommended width of plank board decking to be used for a roof deck? What could go wrong and what type of problems could arise if the boards are wider?Ed

1x6 (3/4" x 5 1/2") maximum. Wider boards may expand and contract too much and this movement may split shingles or cause them to buckle (form ridges).

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

What is the weak point of stepped counter-flashing, when individual step pieces are utilized? Ed

Snowmelt may find it's way back through the vertical joints. Also, it's more difficult to replace since the counterflashing is usually mortared into place. "more difficult" means it's often not replaced correctly when it needs to be replaced.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Why should an inspection include looking into the interior of a sheet metal chimney surround, aka, chimney housing?Ed

Raccoons! Possums! I think maybe you got me on this one!

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

When looking at leaks emanating from a masonry chimney, why should the top of the chimney be looked at?

When masons finish the chimney they have a hawk or tub full of mortar and that's usually what they form the cap with. Mortar isn't very durable and forms crack easily compared to concrete. Cracks will eventually leak.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

What is wrong with an ODE Drip edge metal being used along the eave edge, especially when there is an existing gutter in place or there is the intention to install one?Ed

Good one Ed! The ODE drip edge has a lip that exteds close to 3/4" past the fascia to which the guter is attached. If the roof-covering material is projected too raf past the edge of the ODE, it may cause runoff to overshoot the gutter.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Now, just for a point of clarification, are you seeking more residential roofing questions or are flat roof applications for commercial and/or industrial buildings also being sought?
Ed

Ed, at this point, I'm just trying to get past comp shingles! Then I'll be going on to other residential roofing materials.
Commercial's a whole other subject.

[Ed Fako]

This seems fun.

Additional relevant answers will be added in blue or red.

Ed





Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
Okay then, here is an easy one, but one that is done incorrectly most of the time.

Why can't chimney or wall flashing be composed of just one piece, comprising the roof surface and the wall surface?

If that doesn't make any sense, then another way to ask the question is; What is the purpose of the secondary piece of sheet metal, called the Counter-Flashing for?Ed

Step flashing provides a shingle effect which greatly reduces the chances of runoff finding it's way back beneath the shingles and through the roof deck, expecially if the underlayment ends at a sidewall instead of running up the sidewall a short distance.
Any water getting underneath a peice of step flashing wil be diverted onto the top of the step flashing in the course immediately below. If flashing is continuous, it can run beneath the flashing until it finds its way back to the roof deck sidewall junction where it's more likely to leak.

I was looking more for the reply to be along the lines of the 2 separate structures having different expansion and contraction, or building movement.

If a one piece sheet metal flashing were to be nailed to the roof deck along with the composition shingles, and also be secured to the chimney structure, which would have its own footings, then any opposing building or chimney movement would result in the tearing and moving of the dually attached one piece sheet metal flashing.


In a proper 2 piece flashing system, you have the Base Step Flashing, which may also be called a Baby Tin Flashing, which is ONLY secured to the roof deck and laced through the successive courses of shingles.

The secondary segment of flashing is called the Counter-Flashing. The Counter-Flashing is ONLY secured to the chimney structure, so that when movement occurs, the force will allow movement of the two different flashing metals, allowing them to basically slide back and forth within each others overlap.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What are the approved methods of attaching or securing sheet metal flashings to a masonry structure? What could be observed as being wrong with a non-conforming method of attachment?Ed

Flashing (actually, more usually counter-flashing) can be installed into mortar joints or into slots cut into masonry with a grinder. "Non-conforming" usually means sealant, which eventually dries, shrinks, cracks and LEAKS!

Point for clarifications sake only. If a surface mounted flashing is anchored correctly to a masonry structure, while the exterior caulking may be vulnerable to the UV Rays of the sun and premature degradation, the proper location of the caulking that would prevent moisture migration would be the embeddment of the caulking just directly under the upper edge of the counter flashing, creating a gasket compression like seal between the sheet metal counter flashing and the masonry wall.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
Next:
When looking for a roof leak near a chimney chase, where would one need to inspect to verify all possibilities of the source of the leak?Ed

The cap is a potential leak are but the most likely place is where the chase (chimney) penetrates the roof. Failed or improper flashing is most likely the culprit. Depending on the exterior covering material it may go through any crack it can find, including corner trim in chimneys with siding.

Good answers, but also to be expanded on for more definitive clarification. Inspect every bottom corner of the chimney where the baby tin step flashings intersect the corner. Are there any voids or improper cuts, allowing the interior to be exposed? Check, in particular, with vinyl or aluminum siding around a Chimney Chase, at the upper portion of the corner post and view it to see if there is a hollow funnel allowing water to rain directly into the corner post.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is the minimum length for the nails to be, to attach a Ridge Vent to the wood decking? Would it vary if the decking were 1/2" plywood or 1" x 6" plank board decking?Ed

Depends on the type of ridge vent installed. Nails should be long enough to securely hold the ridge vent into place.

Solid embeddment into a plank board decking of at least 1" and a minimum of 1/2" penetration THROUGH 1/2" cdx sheathing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is the maximum recommended width of plank board decking to be used for a roof deck? What could go wrong and what type of problems could arise if the boards are wider?Ed

1x6 (3/4" x 5 1/2") maximum. Wider boards may expand and contract too much and this movement may split shingles or cause them to buckle (form ridges).

Very Good.


Although, when doing a tear-off, larger width boards are often found with no evidence of this anomally occuring.

The recommended repair to alleviate this condition, would be to rip any larger boards down to a minimum of the 6" Nominal Width, and should split the difference if it is anything less than or larger than a 12" Nominal Width Plank Decking Board.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is the weak point of stepped counter-flashing, when individual step pieces are utilized? Ed

Snowmelt may find it's way back through the vertical joints. Also, it's more difficult to replace since the counterflashing is usually mortared into place. "more difficult" means it's often not replaced correctly when it needs to be replaced.

Very True.


I have seen more evidence of soaked plank board decking that was completely rotted away, when non-maintained vertical joint individual step flashing pieces were used as opposed to the incorrect method of coating the old chimney flashings with fibered plastic roofing cement.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
Why should an inspection include looking into the interior of a sheet metal chimney surround, aka, chimney housing?Ed

Raccoons! Possums! I think maybe you got me on this one!

This is one that you Inspectors NEED to understand and pick up on.


On such Chimney Housings, the interior chase contains a B-Vent Pipe, which is releasing carbon monoxide. If any joint for the top extension adapter were compromised or if it were missing altogether, the inhabitants lives could be at risk. Even if the piping components are properly connected, birds or squirrels can create their nests inside, which may possibly also affect the release of the poisonous gasseous fumes. Now, add a back draft to the situation, or negative pressure and then you have a high likelyhood of those toxic fumes being released to the interior living quarters of the home, putting heath and life on the line for the inhabitants.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
When looking at leaks emanating from a masonry chimney, why should the top of the chimney be looked at?

When masons finish the chimney they have a hawk or tub full of mortar and that's usually what they form the cap with. Mortar isn't very durable and forms crack easily compared to concrete. Cracks will eventually leak.

Good enough answer, but also remember to check the seal against the clay or metal flue projecting through the center of the crown.

Also, even without looking at the top surface of the chimney crown, you could observe if it were properly poured. Did they use a form, so that the cement extended beyond the exterior perimeters of the lower masonry chimney? If it were poured flush to the brick work, then all shedding water would be in continual contact with the bricks and mortar, creating an extreme climate for excessive wicking through the natural porosity of the structure itself, which would then appear as an interior roof leak, by wetting the drywall or other types of ceiling and/or wall materials in contact with the chimney.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is wrong with an ODE Drip edge metal being used along the eave edge, especially when there is an existing gutter in place or there is the intention to install one?Ed

Good one Ed! The ODE drip edge has a lip that exteds close to 3/4" past the fascia to which the guter is attached. If the roof-covering material is projected too raf past the edge of the ODE, it may cause runoff to overshoot the gutter.

That is a very reasonable and plausible explanation.


Further though, the actual style and shape of a True Gutter Apron product already has somewhat of the pitch bent into the material. When the Gutter Apron material affixes down to the roof decking structure, the bottom face portion will project downwards the precise amount of inches that it was designed to, and should finalize it's projection into the trough of the gutter.


If the ODE style of Drip Edge is used at the Eave Edge, there will be a face depth problem that occurs. Since the ODE metal is bent at a precise 90* bend, which must now conform to a vertical fascia and a sloped roof deck, there will be a natural tendancy for the face portion of the ODE to lift upwarsds upon the top portion on the roof deck being nailed down snugly. This will cause the face portion to miss it's targeted projection into the gutter trough, thereby allowing a void between the top rear back side of the gutter and under the drip edge, allowing moisture inhibition onto and eventually into the fascia system or board.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

This seems fun.

Additional relevant answers will be added in blue or red.

Ed

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
Okay then, here is an easy one, but one that is done incorrectly most of the time.

Why can't chimney or wall flashing be composed of just one piece, comprising the roof surface and the wall surface?

If that doesn't make any sense, then another way to ask the question is; What is the purpose of the secondary piece of sheet metal, called the Counter-Flashing for?Ed

Step flashing provides a shingle effect which greatly reduces the chances of runoff finding it's way back beneath the shingles and through the roof deck, expecially if the underlayment ends at a sidewall instead of running up the sidewall a short distance.
Any water getting underneath a peice of step flashing wil be diverted onto the top of the step flashing in the course immediately below. If flashing is continuous, it can run beneath the flashing until it finds its way back to the roof deck sidewall junction where it's more likely to leak.

I was looking more for the reply to be along the lines of the 2 separate structures having different expansion and contraction, or building movement.

If a one piece sheet metal flashing were to be nailed to the roof deck along with the composition shingles, and also be secured to the chimney structure, which would have its own footings, then any opposing building or chimney movement would result in the tearing and moving of the dually attached one piece sheet metal flashing.


In a proper 2 piece flashing system, you have the Base Step Flashing, which may also be called a Baby Tin Flashing, which is ONLY secured to the roof deck and laced through the successive courses of shingles.

The secondary segment of flashing is called the Counter-Flashing. The Counter-Flashing is ONLY secured to the chimney structure, so that when movement occurs, the force will allow movement of the two different flashing metals, allowing them to basically slide back and forth within each others overlap.

Yep, that makes sense. I though you question was about continuous flashing as opposed to step-flashing.
The argument I've heard for fastening step-flashing at sidewalls by nailing step-flashing down into the roof deck only is that it makes it possible to replace the step flashing after it corrodes without destroying the exterior wall covering behind which the step flashing extends.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What are the approved methods of attaching or securing sheet metal flashings to a masonry structure? What could be observed as being wrong with a non-conforming method of attachment?Ed

Flashing (actually, more usually counter-flashing) can be installed into mortar joints or into slots cut into masonry with a grinder. "Non-conforming" usually means sealant, which eventually dries, shrinks, cracks and LEAKS!

Point for clarifications sake only. If a surface mounted flashing is anchored correctly to a masonry structure, while the exterior caulking may be vulnerable to the UV Rays of the sun and premature degradation, the proper location of the caulking that would prevent moisture migration would be the embeddment of the caulking just directly under the upper edge of the counter flashing, creating a gasket compression like seal between the sheet metal counter flashing and the masonry wall.

Shielding sealant from direct sunlight would defintely help, but I wonder if sealants also oxidate and evaporate plasticizing compounds over time. That would mean they'd dry, shrink and crack anyway.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
Next:
When looking for a roof leak near a chimney chase, where would one need to inspect to verify all possibilities of the source of the leak?Ed

The cap is a potential leak are but the most likely place is where the chase (chimney) penetrates the roof. Failed or improper flashing is most likely the culprit. Depending on the exterior covering material it may go through any crack it can find, including corner trim in chimneys with siding.

Good answers, but also to be expanded on for more definitive clarification. Inspect every bottom corner of the chimney where the baby tin step flashings intersect the corner. Are there any voids or improper cuts, allowing the interior to be exposed? Check, in particular, with vinyl or aluminum siding around a Chimney Chase, at the upper portion of the corner post and view it to see if there is a hollow funnel allowing water to rain directly into the corner post.

Good point, now that you mention it I've seen gaps at those corners, especially with flashing fabricated onsite. The video we shot of sheet metal being fabricated around a skylight curb addresses just that.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is the minimum length for the nails to be, to attach a Ridge Vent to the wood decking? Would it vary if the decking were 1/2" plywood or 1" x 6" plank board decking?Ed

Depends on the type of ridge vent installed. Nails should be long enough to securely hold the ridge vent into place.

Solid embeddment into a plank board decking of at least 1" and a minimum of 1/2" penetration THROUGH 1/2" cdx sheathing.

Where's this requirement from, Ed? Manufacturer? IRC? SMACNA?

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is the maximum recommended width of plank board decking to be used for a roof deck? What could go wrong and what type of problems could arise if the boards are wider?Ed

1x6 (3/4" x 5 1/2") maximum. Wider boards may expand and contract too much and this movement may split shingles or cause them to buckle (form ridges).

Very Good.


Although, when doing a tear-off, larger width boards are often found with no evidence of this anomally occuring.

The recommended repair to alleviate this condition, would be to rip any larger boards down to a minimum of the 6" Nominal Width, and should split the difference if it is anything less than or larger than a 12" Nominal Width Plank Decking Board.

Yeah, they recommend just running a circular saw down the center of the board. Don't even have to pull nails.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is the weak point of stepped counter-flashing, when individual step pieces are utilized? Ed

Snowmelt may find it's way back through the vertical joints. Also, it's more difficult to replace since the counterflashing is usually mortared into place. "more difficult" means it's often not replaced correctly when it needs to be replaced.

Very True.


I have seen more evidence of soaked plank board decking that was completely rotted away, when non-maintained vertical joint individual step flashing pieces were used as opposed to the incorrect method of coating the old chimney flashings with fibered plastic roofing cement.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
Why should an inspection include looking into the interior of a sheet metal chimney surround, aka, chimney housing?Ed

Raccoons! Possums! I think maybe you got me on this one!

This is one that you Inspectors NEED to understand and pick up on.


On such Chimney Housings, the interior chase contains a B-Vent Pipe, which is releasing carbon monoxide. If any joint for the top extension adapter were compromised or if it were missing altogether, the inhabitants lives could be at risk. Even if the piping components are properly connected, birds or squirrels can create their nests inside, which may possibly also affect the release of the poisonous gasseous fumes. Now, add a back draft to the situation, or negative pressure and then you have a high likelyhood of those toxic fumes being released to the interior living quarters of the home, putting heath and life on the line for the inhabitants.

So we're looking for separations in the B-vent or obstructions of the flue. If I understand you correctly, if there's a leak in the b-vent below the flue termination and inside the metal chimney housing, CO can build up inside the housing at concentrations potentially serious to cause health problems if backdraft pulled it back down the flue.
Does this really happen?

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
When looking at leaks emanating from a masonry chimney, why should the top of the chimney be looked at?

When masons finish the chimney they have a hawk or tub full of mortar and that's usually what they form the cap with. Mortar isn't very durable and forms crack easily compared to concrete. Cracks will eventually leak.

Good enough answer, but also remember to check the seal against the clay or metal flue projecting through the center of the crown.

Also, even without looking at the top surface of the chimney crown, you could observe if it were properly poured. Did they use a form, so that the cement extended beyond the exterior perimeters of the lower masonry chimney? If it were poured flush to the brick work, then all shedding water would be in continual contact with the bricks and mortar, creating an extreme climate for excessive wicking through the natural porosity of the structure itself, which would then appear as an interior roof leak, by wetting the drywall or other types of ceiling and/or wall materials in contact with the chimney.

Originally Posted by Ed Fako

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is wrong with an ODE Drip edge metal being used along the eave edge, especially when there is an existing gutter in place or there is the intention to install one?Ed

Good one Ed! The ODE drip edge has a lip that exteds close to 3/4" past the fascia to which the guter is attached. If the roof-covering material is projected too raf past the edge of the ODE, it may cause runoff to overshoot the gutter.

That is a very reasonable and plausible explanation.


Further though, the actual style and shape of a True Gutter Apron product already has somewhat of the pitch bent into the material. When the Gutter Apron material affixes down to the roof decking structure, the bottom face portion will project downwards the precise amount of inches that it was designed to, and should finalize it's projection into the trough of the gutter.


If the ODE style of Drip Edge is used at the Eave Edge, there will be a face depth problem that occurs. Since the ODE metal is bent at a precise 90* bend, which must now conform to a vertical fascia and a sloped roof deck, there will be a natural tendancy for the face portion of the ODE to lift upwarsds upon the top portion on the roof deck being nailed down snugly. This will cause the face portion to miss it's targeted projection into the gutter trough, thereby allowing a void between the top rear back side of the gutter and under the drip edge, allowing moisture inhibition onto and eventually into the fascia system or board.

I can see how this would be worse with steeper roofs. We have ODE on the eve of the roof prop for the video, but the fascia is installed square to the pitch so it won't be a good example. I think we need an illustration to show what you're talking about. It would especialy be a potential problem where roof sheathing extends out over the fascia, which is very common.

Good questions and observations Ed, thanks for posting. It's these kinds of things that truly make it "Advanced" Roof Defect Recognition.

[Ed Fako]

Just one quick one before I leave my office.

Ed



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Fako
What is the minimum length for the nails to be, to attach a Ridge Vent to the wood decking? Would it vary if the decking were 1/2" plywood or 1" x 6" plank board decking?Ed

Depends on the type of ridge vent installed. Nails should be long enough to securely hold the ridge vent into place.

Solid embeddment into a plank board decking of at least 1" and a minimum of 1/2" penetration THROUGH 1/2" cdx sheathing.


Where's this requirement from, Ed? Manufacturer? IRC? SMACNA?




ARMA, APA, and Certainteed Master Shingle Applicator.

I know it has reference in each of those associations publications, but the easiest to find, would be in the Master Shingle Applicator book, which now is on it's 8th edition.

The recommended length is a "Minimum" of 2 1/2" I think, but I do not have the resource available to verify in front of me right now.

In reality, even though there is a Ridge Vent being nailed to the roof decking, there also is the Shingle Ridge Caps being nailed as the final surface protection product.

Think of it in those terms and then follow the required nail depth for composition shingles.

Ed

[Shawn Rowe]

Is there a "technical" name of the flashing that intersects the rake-ridge line? This is an area where I see a lot of homes get wind driven rain in at. Many times this area is just sealed.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by srowe

Is there a "technical" name of the flashing that intersects the rake-ridge line? This is an area where I see a lot of homes get wind driven rain in at. Many times this area is just sealed.

No industry standard name that I know of Shawn. Names for things are generally a can of worms because they vary so much by region, unless there's an authority that everyone defers to.

[Ed Fako]

Originally Posted by srowe

Is there a "technical" name of the flashing that intersects the rake-ridge line? This is an area where I see a lot of homes get wind driven rain in at. Many times this area is just sealed.

Lets see if I can get a reply to get posted without waiting 3 days and still not see it appear, due to the new moderation of posts rule.

The sheet metal that should be installed, is typically a "Baby Tin", which is a Midwest geographical term, also known as a Base Step Flashing.

The aluminum baby tin needs to be overlapped with a secondary piece where it makes the transition from one side of the slope to the other, before it gets covered up by the shingles on the higher roof slope. Also, as the height of the baby tin gets higher than the plywood decking on the higher roof slope, that excess metal needs to be "Peened" into place, so it can lay flat on that upper deck sheathing.

The reason for 2 separate baby tins, is that when the first one needs to be cut with tin snips on the vertical portion, there will be a gap in the sheet metal at the bend point. Caulk in that gap alone, will not prove to be a long lasting solution.

The better solution, is to cut the first baby tin at a 45* angle facing the direction of the slope it is rising from and then take the next baby tin ans snip a slice in the exact mirror direction. But, prior to just sandwiching those two tins together, a dab of Geocell, Vulkem, or NP-1 Sealant should be applied, and then squish the two tins together, so that the pin hole at the apex point oozes a slight amount of the sealant out.

Ed



P.S.
I sure hope that they amended their moderated posting rules by now, because I do enjoy reading and learning, as well as posting on this site.

I never did receive any response from Chris when I sent him an e-mail as directed in the message that appears for non=members, such as myself.

Would anyone care to point that out to him, if you have the opportunity

[Jeffrey S. Campbell]

How would you go about recommending or maybe not recommending that a roof (only 9 years old) be stripped and re-roofed simply due to the fact that there is 3-4 layers of asphalt shingles present (in MAINE) which is compounded by heavy snow loads?

-btw... roofer agreed it should be replaced...

No noted active leaks but plenty of evidence to suggest past leaks.


same home has a 50+ year old steam boiler... still operates but simply due to efficiency you would think it would be worth replacing...

it was a lot for the client to take in... especially when contractors started showing up spewing prices... 8k 15k 25k for various issues...

I value your professional opinions!

[Kevin Luce]

I would like to post some pictures of a roof but not sure how. I click on the "Attach Image" box and it tells me to attach the picture on my computer by clicking on the "paper clip". I don't see a paper clip. Can anyone help me with this?

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Originally Posted by Kevin Luce

I would like to post some pictures of a roof but not sure how. I click on the "Attach Image" box and it tells me to attach the picture on my computer by clicking on the "paper clip". I don't see a paper clip. Can anyone help me with this?

Kevin, the paper clip is just above that, then click on browse and get your pics, but don't forget to resize down to 480.

Marcel

[Mario A. Kyriacou, CHI]

Attachments and ImagesHow do I attach a file to a post?
To attach a file to your post, you need to be using the main 'New Post' or 'New Thread' page and not 'Quick Reply'. To use the main 'New Post' page, click the 'Post Reply' button in the relevant thread.
On this page, below the message box, you will find a button labelled 'Manage Attachments'. Clicking this button will open a new window for uploading attachments. You can upload an attachment either from your computer or from another URL by using the appropriate box on this page. Alternatively you can click the Attachment Icon to open this page.
To upload a file from your computer, click the 'Browse' button and locate the file. To upload a file from another URL, enter the full URL for the file in the second box on this page. Once you have completed one of the boxes, click 'Upload'.
Once the upload is completed the file name will appear below the input boxes in this window. You can then close the window to return to the new post screen.
What files types can I use? How large can attachments be?
In the attachment window you will find a list of the allowed file types and their maximum sizes. Files that are larger than these sizes will be rejected. There may also be an overall quota limit to the number of attachments you can post to the board.
How do I add an image to a post?
If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.
To include an image that is not uploaded as an attachment and is located on another website, you can do so by copying the full URL to the image, (not the page on which the image is located), and either pressing the 'Insert Image' icon or by typing [img] before the URL and [/img] after it, ensuring that you do not have any spaces before or after the URL of the image. You can insert pictures from your albums in this way too.

[Allan G. Berdahl]

Once I figure out how to post the pics from Marios instructions(tired), I'll post however, heres the problem.
False roof dormer. No vents on exterior of the dormer nor in the attic area to the dormer. Basically dead air inside the dormer. Gutters butt up against the end of the dormer and end capped. No snow on the main roof (6-12 pitch). Snow on dormer.
Ice buildup along the gutter and at the elbows and excessive ice buildup at the downspout on both sides of the dormer. Looks like severe ice damming.
Roof was redone in 2008. First winter. I'm suspecting that the dormer may have had a vent but was taken out when reroofed. Just a guess. Any other ideas?

[Mario A. Kyriacou, CHI]

Allan,

You have to resize the photos prior to uploading to the MB.

Windows VISTA-XP RESIZER DOWNLOAD

[Frank Albert]

Originally Posted by srowe

Is there a "technical" name of the flashing that intersects the rake-ridge line? This is an area where I see a lot of homes get wind driven rain in at. Many times this area is just sealed.

as a rule, there is 4" of roof area under there. The step flashing coming up the wall will terminate under the plywood deck of the adjoining/opposing roof. I make sure there is a 1" gap where the left arrow is, and run my shingles from the lower roof, up and over the ridge there. Then, my caps slide under there too. No 'flashing' goes there.
If plywood is exposed, as you indicate, it's wrong in all aspects.