Please post questions about anything having to do with roofing

[ndelguerico]

I am looking to get some good information to my client concerning flat roofs, ie, how to maintain, who to allow on the roof, what kind of damage may occur if the maintenance people are careless. Also lifespan and brief explaination of the roof system. I found a roof maintenance guide online, unfortunately, the author company of the information is from British Columbia; My client would rather have information from U.S. companies. I would appreciated the help.

Thanks, N. Del Guerico, CMI

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Originally Posted by ndelguerico

I am looking to get some good information to my client concerning flat roofs, ie, how to maintain, who to allow on the roof, what kind of damage may occur if the maintenance people are careless. Also lifespan and brief explaination of the roof system. I found a roof maintenance guide online, unfortunately, the author company of the information is from British Columbia; My client would rather have information from U.S. companies. I would appreciated the help.

Thanks, N. Del Guerico, CMI

Hi. Nancy;

How to maintain a flat roof system Nancy would depend on the type of roof that was installed.
Information on flat roofs are readibly available in most cases on line, but I would recommend you ask one of the Roofing Contractors in your area that would know more about the systems for your geographical area.

Here is a listing of all Roofing Contractors in your area that might be of help.
http://www.roofing.com/directory/state/MD/2

If it helps, in my area, the life span of flat roofs is about 20 years max..
Anytime people walk on a flat roof, opens an opportunity for damage.
Careless maintenace people have been seen to drop tools, and puncture the membranes.
Walk pads are usually installed for that purpose.
The less traffic there is on a flat roof, the more apt you will in having a roof system that will last according to it's lifetime estimate. That is assumming that all was installed per Manufacturers Installation and Inspected for its proper installation to begin with.

BURs and modified bitumens are 2 very popular types of flat roofs that we have installed. To find out what type of flat roof is best for you, please consult a West American Roofing representative.

http://www.bellinspection.com/files/Flat_Roof2.pdf

This article may be of help also.
http://www.sacredplaces.org/PSP-Info...lat%20Roof.htm


Marcel

[Shawn Rowe]

Is a lead apron required where tiles start at a vertical wall (i don't mean a side wall flashing)?

Also, is a lead apron required over the tile at the base of a valley (intersecting another field)?

Thanks Kenton!!

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by srowe

Is a lead apron required where tiles start at a vertical wall (i don't mean a side wall flashing)?

The vertical wall at the top of a roof is usually called a "headwall". Yes, the headwall/roof junction should have flashing which extends up behind the exterior wall-covering and overlaps the tiles, so that water running down the wall is directed out over the tiles.

Originally Posted by srowe

Also, is a lead apron required over the tile at the base of a valley (intersecting another field)?

Tile valleys are flashed using valley metal, which should be under the tile at the valleys. I may be misunderstanding your question here, Shawn.

[Shawn Rowe]

Sorry Kenton,

I didn't explain accurately. Here is a sample photo. The water from the valley does not appear to be diverted over the tile.

[Ed Fako]

Without seeing underneath the tile row at the eave edge, and overlooking the obvious broken tile, one opossible expalnation for that detail may be that the valley metal is run under the tiles for aestetic reasons, so as to not leave a void-like appearance from a ground view-point.

No, lead over the intersecting inverted V's of W-valley metal is not Required, although various manufacturers of tile may have that in their specifications. But, the jointed area still needs to be sealed tight, preferable with solder, but also properly done in between the overlapping folded joints at the intersection, a quality caulking sealant could work and serve it's purpose for a long time duration.

Ed

[Robert Sole]

I have a question about how to address the life of metal roofing. I did a 4 Point inspection today and the home is 55 years old with an original metal roof. I have to estimate remaining life.

Most sites I look at say that the metal roof should last between 30 and 50 years. A few say that the roof should last the life of the home.

This roof appears to have been well maintained and the customer says that her husband recoats it every several year. By appearance, it is obviously not new but looks in pretty good condition (no signs of leaks or rust).

I was thinking about saying that it has approx. 10 years life left. Any suggestions?

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by rsole

I have a question about how to address the life of metal roofing. I did a 4 Point inspection today and the home is 55 years old with an original metal roof. I have to estimate remaining life.

Most sites I look at say that the metal roof should last between 30 and 50 years. A few say that the roof should last the life of the home.

This roof appears to have been well maintained and the customer says that her husband recoats it every several year. By appearance, it is obviously not new but looks in pretty good condition (no signs of leaks or rust).

I was thinking about saying that it has approx. 10 years life left. Any suggestions?

Metal roofs vary in quality and with maintenance just like many other types of roof-covering materials. We don't do 4-point inspections here so I know nothing about them. Why are you required to estimate remaining life? What's the penalty if you're wrong?

If a roof which websites say has a general maximum life of 50 years is in good shape at 55 years with no sign of corrosion, why would you say it only has 10 years left?

I just don't see what reliable statistical studies could you possibly use provide a useful, reasonable forecast? Can't say I envy you this one, Robert. Good luck!

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by bhamilton

Can asphalt shingles be installed over wood shakes/shingles or should they be removed.

As an improper substate it will void any manufacturer's warranty which might be ineffect.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by srowe

Thanks for your help Kenton! Are there any manufacturers that would prohibit or void a the warranty for this installation. The shingles were obviously not cut properly and is very unsightly but does it affect performance?

Good idea to lift a few shingle tabs and see how the joints align. Not installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations, meaning any warranty might be void.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by Frank Albert

Some appear to be a cause and effect of the self-sealing capabilities of the shingles. I've been in long discussions with other roofers. We 'believe' it's partially because water DOES wick under the shinlges at all joints/butts. Because of the shingles seal down capability, the water cannot run out from under the shingle. ( This is also why I fail any roof that used EG nails. They rot off in 6-8 years leaving holes.) ...

So, to pass a roof you require stainless steel nails?

[Frank Albert]

"So, to pass a roof you require stainless steel nails?"
I use HDD roof nails. Not brights, which are EG. Coil nails are supposed to be HD. Not sure as I haven't used a gun in years.

And not everything unlisted in specs will void a warranty. This isn't to wrapper specs, [/IMG], but Elk said it was OK and the rep mentioned that all roofs should be Dutch-Lapped. This one is 8-9 years old and on my own house. So far, only tested to 80mph.

[Bill Smith]

Here's an oldie but a goodie - "Are architectural shingles permitted to be installed over an existing layer of three tab shingles?"

[Ed Fako]

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhamilton
Can asphalt shingles be installed over wood shakes/shingles or should they be removed.

Originally Posted by kshepard

As an improper substate it will void any manufacturer's warranty which might be ineffect.

I work on many old historic era homes and many of the roofs have a bottom course of cedar shinglesm which was lain over the original skip sheathing spaced plank board decking.

There are usually at least 2 additional layers of asphalt composition shingles installed on top of the cedar shingles.

The building code department refers to the layer of cedar shingles as the deck sheathing in these cases, correctly or not, but it has been done that way successfuly for many decades.

Now, mind you, I have not ever installed on top of an existing cedar shingle roof, but I see no adverse affects in doing so.

Remember, I am referring to tapersawn cedar shingles, not handsplit cedar shakes. The tapersawns have an approximate exposure per course, of 5", which is nearly identical to US standard measurement shingle reveal.

I know that I have read it as being acceptable, but do not recall the source, but it possibly may have been the city code book.

Ed

[Frank Albert]

Originally Posted by bsmith

Here's an oldie but a goodie - "Are architectural shingles permitted to be installed over an existing layer of three tab shingles?"

No clue. Quit doing overlays in the 80's when I saw how proper nailing created stress cracks as the shingles bent into place. Improper nailing in the smooth area voids the warranty because you're nailing 2" about the correct spot. Lose/lose situation. IMHO.

(BTW, my post will probably show up tomorrow or Thursday.)