Siding around windows and top of front, meeting a stone weatherledge, with stone veneer below.
Behind entire front has Tyek house wrap.
Between the siding and stone transition:
Siding with J-Channel at Bottom.
Behind siding is a 4 inch drip cap. Drip cap has flashing tape where nailed, where it meets house wrap.
Right below that drip cap is where the weather ledge was installed. In some spots, lifting up the drip cap you can see the house wrap. I checked a few other houses on the street, and they were done the same way.
Does there need to be caulk where i can see the house wrap under the drip ledge? On top of the stone sill behind the drip edge. If I do, what kind of caulk needs to be used?
Does anything else look like it needs attention? I’m just trying to avoid any water penetration.
Matt. sorry to hear that.
Hire a InterNACHI home inspector capable of helping you out. Look around for an Infrared Inspector. Someone who does predictive/preventative maintenance inspections would be my best recommendation.
1: Jeffrey’s image may be correct BUT we require to have an image.
2: IMO: The best thing he could do is hire a professional InterNACHI member that is developed in exterior envelopes, utilizes Infrared Thermal Imaging and have a report prepared to go after the builder.
Why else would you depute that?
3: The posters narrative about the exterior wall assembly is confusing. Or at least it is to me.
I have been opening wall assemblies and managing water infiltration for decades. You require to hire a professional and determine if anything else is wrong so you can have it made right.
Best regards.
Answering one of your questions in your #1 post:
The flashing detail at the manufactured copping ashlars looks correct! Move on.
I am not there so I can not measure the flashing lap, nor can I determine if there is a drip plain behind the siding assemble.
I hope that helped.
Attached is an additional picture. This is what is looked like before stone at the bottom, and siding installed.
There is flashing tape at the top where the drip edge aluminum piece meets the house wrap…where it is nailed in.
Is this the correct way to install this, or not? Underneath the drip ledge - aluminum angled out where the stone watertable sill starts, lifting up that aluminum you can see house wrap. Is that normal?
Matt, the one good thing you say is that the middle drip Is taped to the weather barrier that will help divert the moisture that is behind the siding back out to the exterior surface instead of going down behind the stone.
Mark Parlee
The Building Consultant
building envelope consultant specializing in
moisture intrusion & construction defects investigations & resolution.
BESI (Building Envelope Science Institute) Level II inspector
EDI certified EIFS inspector & Building Envelope II
Certified Level One Thermographer
“Real Solutions for Real Problems” www.thebuildingconsultant.com
Matt, the one good thing you say is that the middle drip Is taped to the weather barrier that will help divert the moisture that is behind the siding back out to the exterior surface instead of going down behind the stone.
Not many stone installers of adhered veneer get the details right, I do inspections for four national inspection companies regarding EIFS, stucco and adhered masonry veneer. Out of 200 inspections I’ve only seen two that were correct in detail.
The adhered stone problems in this country will make problems look like a tiny drop in the bucket. I was just out at the EDI (exterior design Institute) live training three weeks ago and instructed their first class on stone veneer inspections. Any inspectors that do moisture testing would be wise to brush up on all the details regarding stone veneer.
I have written a couple articles on stone veneer failures. A drain mat which cost about $2.50 with all accessories installed will give great protection and eliminate the $58 per square foot remediation costs that I have been involved in on a couple homes in my moisture intrusion and construction defects consulting capacity. In my state a builder is responsible for 15 years if a construction defect shows up
Mark Parlee
The Building Consultant
building envelope consultant specializing in
moisture intrusion & construction defects investigations & resolution.
BESI (Building Envelope Science Institute) Level II inspector
EDI certified EIFS inspector & Building Envelope II
Certified Level One Thermographer
“Real Solutions for Real Problems” www.thebuildingconsultant.com
