Roof "Flashing"???

[ROBERT W. NEWLAND, JR.]

Ran across this today, new construction, flashing not visible (brick mortar on top of shingles). How would you report? Thanks.

[Richard A. Hetzel]

The flashing should be step flashing on the surface of the brick, with a minimum dimension of 2 inches above the shingles as counterflashing, with flashing extending under the shingles and up a minimum of 4 inches above the shingles behind the counterflashing. I guess that isn't very clear, because I usually draw it and not try to describe it in words.

[ROBERT W. NEWLAND, JR.]

Thx Richard. Anyone else????

[Terry Clayton]

I was wondering what will happen when the roof has to be replaced

[Carl A. Brown]

Originally Posted by tclayton

I was wondering what will happen when the roof has to be replaced

At that time the flashing will have to be installed closer to right.

That is the kind of crap that happens when so called Builders,sub contractors and building officials do not care enough to do their jobs right!

The biggest problem is what about all the water that could/is getting behing the brick now doing to the structure??

If they messed that up what else is bad that can not be seen?

[Richard A. Hetzel]

Another question is: what's supporting the brick up there? The roof sheathing?? Is it full thickness brick, or thin brick?

[Carl A. Brown]

Osb!

[Barry Adair]

this should cover it nicely

Exterior walls shall provide the structure with a weather resistant envelope. Flashings shall be installed in such a manner so as to prevent moisture entering the wall and roof through abutments, joints in copings, through moisture permeable materials, and at intersections with walls, parapet walls and other penetrations through the roof plane. Flashings shall be installed at wall and roof intersections; wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction; and around all roof openings. Advise immediate installation of proper flashing at all required locations. To properly accomplish this retrofit installation will require the removal of a number of the materials currently present. Consult a mason and roofer familiar with proper building envelope moisture protection and flashing installation.

[Barry Adair]

Originally Posted by Richard A. Hetzel

Another question is: what's supporting the brick up there? The roof sheathing?? Is it full thickness brick, or thin brick?

Carl has it mostly right, I know what he means from our previous conversations , but actually it's the framing

[Carl A. Brown]

1 2x4 at the wall after that OSB?

And the 1 2x4 half heartedly attached?

[Barry Adair]

Originally Posted by cbrown1

1 2x4 at the wall after that OSB?

And the 1 2x4 half heartedly attached?

Now, you are ALL RIGHT!

inovation at it's worst

[Carl A. Brown]

So if there is a 1" space behind the brick what is the shear strength of a sheet of OSB?

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Barry has verbally noted excellently.

This might also help.

http://www.maconline.org/tech/constr...d4/bwood4.html





Supporting Exterior Brick Veneer on Wood Construction


Over the years , architects and builders have developed several details to support a veneer over roof systems. One technique is to bolt a shelf angle to the backup structure to carry the dead load of the veneer illustrated in figure 3 .




The second strategy is to use hidden steel pipe columns and a steel beam to support the masonry above as shown in figure 4 In both situations, the parties involved must not lose sight of the standard water management strategies. Where the masonry meets the roof system, base flashing and roof counterflashing details are critical to protect the water damage prone wood structure beneath.


There has been some question as to whether supporting brick veneer on wood is a good idea or even permitted by the applicable building codes. However, all of the model codes have some provisions to support veneer with a wood backing. Supporting brick veneer on wood is acceptable if the necessary precautions are taken to insure structural stability and integrity of the veneer and its supports.Important Considerations
1. The veneer panel that is to be supported by the wood must be stable. When the brick veneer is to be supported on a sloping surface and has little or no masonry serving as an abutment, that section may become unstable and have a tendency to slide.
2. An engineer must design wood members and call out anchors, bolts, nails, and connectors of the support system .
3. Wood members supporting the veneer must be sized so that their deflection (sag) under the weight of the veneer combined with the other loads is small so as to prevent the veneer from cracking. The BIA recommends that the structure be designed so that the deflection does not exceed their span divided by 600 (1/600) or 0.3 inches whichever is smaller, under loaded conditions.
4. Any unreinforced 4" brick veneer will allow some water to penetrate. The brick veneer is designed as a water management system, providing a drainage space, flashing and weep holes to channel entrant water outside of the structure. To facilitate this water management scheme, proper detailing and construction of flashing and weep holes is essential.
5. Remember, that wood is susceptible to decay and termite infestation. For this reason, the emphasis should be on limiting water penetration and protecting the wood structure with good flashing details.
In conclusion, there are several options to facilitate those conditions which require brick veneer to be supported by the wood frame backup. In these situations, steps must be taken to assure that good water management practices are observed and executed.


Hope this helps a little.

Marcel

[ROBERT W. NEWLAND, JR.]

Thanks all!! Good stuff!!!

[Mathew Hawley]

Besides the lack of flashing, the roof has gutters that discharge onto the roof surface. This results in excessive shingle wear and potential leaking in the areas subjected to concentrated run-off and along the roof and wall intersection.

This will have problems real soon.