Roof Valley

[Buck Hartley, CMI]

What would you say about this valley?

Thanks!

[Richard A. Hetzel]

I would say it's silly. At the very least, the shilgles should be woven across the valley. Better yet is to hold back the shingles and allow the valley flashing (if there is any, hahaha) to be exposed. Long valleys with large roofs contributing rain water should have standing seam valley flashing, to inhibit water flowing from one side and up under the shingles of the other side. Behind the valley flashing should be a 36-inch wide run of waterproofing shingle underlayment centered on the valley.

Outside of those items, the valley pictured is nearly perfect.

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Originally Posted by bhartley

What would you say about this valley?

Thanks!

Looks like a nice cut valley, but can't tell if it is cut 2" off center of the valley,

can't tell if the cut valley is the smaller of the two roofs shedding on to the big one,

can't tell how the valley was flashed,

can't tell if the main roof shingles goes up the other by a minimum of 12" and wow, do I need to keep going?

Looks great from here.

[Jeffrey R. Jonas]

Originally Posted by bhartley

What would you say about this valley?

Thanks!

Ain't it purty???

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Forgot to mention, what I can't tell in the picture,

Open valleys are strongly recommended for Grand Manor, Carriage House, Centennial Slate, LandMark TL, Presidential Shake and Presidential TL, because of the thickness and multiple-layer construction of these types of shingles.
They are not designed to conform easily with the angle or shape of a valley.