Texas roof inspections

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Do the state requirements that you confirm proper fastening include confirming proper fastening for each type, brand and model of shingle? Because man! They vary a lot!

[Michael R. Boyett]

That's what it would seem to indicate wouldn't it?:

(3) report as Deficient:

(A)a roof covering that is not appropriate for the slope of the roof;

(B)deficiencies in:

(i) fastening of roof covering material, as determined by a random ampling;

(ii) roof covering materials;

(iii)flashing details;
(iv)skylights; and

(v) other roof penetrations

And the Proposed Commentary for that section says:

Commentary -- Fastening of the roof covering materials may include fasteners and the sealing of composition shingles to each other. Fasteners on composition shingles are required to be located below the sealing adhesive strip and the ends of the shingles are supposed to have fasteners at about one inch from each end of the shingle. These fasteners, if properly located, can be seen by raising the edges of the shingles without damaging the sealing of the shingles. According to industry publications, the sealing of the shingles to each other is as important, or more important, than the location and number of fasteners. A random number of composition shingles should be checked to see that the shingles are sealed.

[Chuck Evans]

Just curious, what kind of differences you are seeing between brands/models. I've been pretty used to seeing the following items being pretty consistent.

• No exposed heads
• Don't nail above the glue strip
• Don't nail in the glue strip
• Space nails evenly
• Don't nail too close or too far from the edge
• 4 nails / strip minimum / 6 nails in high wind
• Ultra-steep pitch nailing don't worry about cause you cant get on it anyway
• Nails should penetrate underside of sheathing at least 1/8th inch (I think)
• Nails should have heads 3/8 in diameter (I think), and be corrosion resistant
• Don't nail at an angle
• Don't drive nail heads into the shingle
• Don't leave the nail sticking up
• Staples I always call as inferior / defect

I haven't tried to make adjustments by manufacturer or model. I don't even usually try to figure out who's shingles are on the roof.

What other nailing characteristics should we be checking (for those of us in Texas who are required to do so).

BTW: On most on the roofs I've done since the new SOP I couldn't get the tabs to lift without risk of tearing them, even using a scraper. So the majority are disclaimed. Most of the others get listed as defective, because there are always some fasteners that are improper and the SOP doesn't say that any number / percentage being improper is OK.

[Michael R. Boyett]

I'm pretty much the same except I don't call out staples as a defect.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Originally Posted by cevans

Just curious, what kind of differences you are seeing between brands/models. I've been pretty used to seeing the following items being pretty consistent.

• No exposed heads
• Don't nail above the glue strip
• Don't nail in the glue strip
• Space nails evenly
• Don't nail too close or too far from the edge

Typically 1" in from either end

• 4 nails / strip minimum / 6 nails in high wind
• Ultra-steep pitch nailing don't worry about cause you cant get on it anyway
• Nails should penetrate underside of sheathing at least 1/8th inch (I think)

3/4" minimum penetration or just through the sheathing if it's plywood or OSB

• Nails should have heads 3/8 in diameter (I think), and be corrosion resistant
• Don't nail at an angle
• Don't drive nail heads into the shingle
• Don't leave the nail sticking up
• Staples I always call as inferior / defect

Not allowed on new construction but widely used at times in the past. Perfectly legal at times, but still a quality issue. Consider mentioning that they were used on the home inspected and are no longer allowed because of inferior holding power compared to nails, but they may have been acceptable at the time the shingles were installed.

I haven't tried to make adjustments by manufacturer or model. I don't even usually try to figure out who's shingles are on the roof.

What other nailing characteristics should we be checking (for those of us in Texas who are required to do so).

• Mention racking if you see it. Defective installation for many shingles, OK for some, recommended for a few. Not unusual for nails to be missing.
• Longer nails need to be used on thicker shingles, shingles laid over existing, hip and ridge caps and continuous ridge vents. Tug on them a little to see if they're loose.

BTW: On most on the roofs I've done since the new SOP I couldn't get the tabs to lift without risk of tearing them, even using a scraper. So the majority are disclaimed. Most of the others get listed as defective, because there are always some fasteners that are improper and the SOP doesn't say that any number / percentage being improper is OK.

You can slice the adhesive strip with a knife, but you should re-seal by hand.

[Michael R. Boyett]

Not allowed on new construction but widely used at times in the past. Perfectly legal at times, but still a quality issue. Consider mentioning that they were used on the home inspected and are no longer allowed because of inferior holding power compared to nails, but they may have been acceptable at the time the shingles were installed.

Owens-Corning, for one, doesn't consider 16 ga, 15/16" crown width, corrosion resistant staples as a defect. They recommend nails but allow staples. Reference Owens-Corning Prominence/Supreme/Classic 3-tab shingle Installation Instructions.