International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Exterior Contains discussions about the exterior portion of a home inspection. This includes roofs, gutters, downspouts, decks, patios, windows, et cetera. |
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#1
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Please Note:
Mitch Patel is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
The roofing is in progress right now.
The rafters are high in the center of the roof. The rest are about 1/2 or so lower than the middle center of the house. Do you do sister rafter w/ 2x4 or 2x6. The rafter currently are 2x6. Also is ripping a 2x and filling in the void w/ construction glue and screwing the rips down recommended? Contractor is recommending 2x4 sist rafters and ripping a 2x4 to 1/2" or so to fill the gap. What's the best way to fix this? Thanks MP
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#2
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I assume these are engineered trusses??? I would not do anything, except stopping the progression, without a truss engineer report and certification for repair. Personnally, if it were my new construction home, it would be comming apart and being redone properly, or I would be walking.
"You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus"...Mark Twain Jeffrey R. Jonas Critical Eye Property Inspections JRJ Consultants Owatonna, Minnesota NACHI07013103 IAC2-01-1567 |
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#3
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Please Note:
Mitch Patel is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
There is no trusses. The house is about 30 years old. I have attached a pix.
Thanks
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#4
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It looks like you might have some rafter spread occuring. Do the walls bow out under the dip in the ridge line? Sistering the rafters won't prevent further rafter spread.
2x6 rafters have a horizontal span rating of about 7 to 10 feet depending on species, grade, snow load, dead load, and spacing. If the home is more that 18' wide or so at this point, the rafters may be over-spanned. Are you sure those aren't 2x8's? I would have a structural engineer look at it if I would you. |
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#5
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Please Note:
Richard A. Hetzel is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
All lumber has some camber in it. Usually the framers sight down the piece from one end to see which way the camber runs, and they try to install the, in this case, rafters, with the camber always in one direction. It's possible this was not done in your house.
Camber is the term for the natural curve in a piece of lumber. They should have all been installed with the curve up. If they were just installed at random without this little bit of care, you might get a roof that looks like that. If that's the cae, I don't know if there's a cure, or if there is, what it might be. |
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#6
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Adding some purlins would help a LOT!
G George Russell Austin,Texas TREC # 10215 GeorgeRussellProfessionalInspections.com 512-296-9538 |
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#7
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Quote:
Your first post inferred (to me at least) new construction. The story changed. Give us everything you have, so we can attempt to help you. Either way, I recommend an SE, as pictures are not even close to being there in person. "You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus"...Mark Twain Jeffrey R. Jonas Critical Eye Property Inspections JRJ Consultants Owatonna, Minnesota NACHI07013103 IAC2-01-1567 |
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#8
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I just read through all your prior posts. You seem to be having multiple major issues with the house and garage roofs. Did you go with the cheapest contractor, cause you usually get what you pay for. Time to call for professional help.
"You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus"...Mark Twain Jeffrey R. Jonas Critical Eye Property Inspections JRJ Consultants Owatonna, Minnesota NACHI07013103 IAC2-01-1567 |
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#9
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It seems that the pic of exterior roof if a lot steeper than the attic interior with rafters. Different areas?
Linda Foster www.HomeInspectionsByFoster.com HomeInspectionsByFoster@yahoo.com (210) 347-1023 TREC #7654 InterNACHI #06032691
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#10
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This is an aesthetic issue.......however same can be reasonably fixed, depending on your expectation and amount of money you want to spend, by doing a combination of both adding purlins and sistering rafters with the same size of those currently in place.
For extremely crowned rafters, one may simply have to partially cut the existing rafter prior to sistering....... no engineer is required for either of these type of fixes. |
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#11
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Please Note:
Wayne Carlisle is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
It looks like when the decking was installed, the installer did not leave the required spacing between the edges of the plywood.
This type of problem is what you are seeing. |
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#12
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That's not high quality frarming. Look at the angle of the gable studs. I think they cut some rafters too short or too long.
Kenton Shepard, InterNACHI member # 04082383 Certified Master Inspector (CMI) EXPERT WITNESS Director of Green Building Director for International Development (303) 717-8940 (303) 258-8289 |
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#13
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Quote:
Quality Speed Price........................pick 2. (quality is rarely picked, the fact they used styrofoam board speaks for itself) regards Jeff |
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#14
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i would agree with the contractor. a 2x4 sister will be far superior to a ripped filler. the sister provides a full depth to recieve the sheathing nails and will not be prone to splitting as would a ripped filler that is applied along the top surface of the rafter and ripprd from something too nothing.
Mark S. Tyson M Tyson construction LLC Tyson Home Inspections Certified General Contractor #1516843 O.S.H.A. certified Member N.A.C.H.I. IAC2 certified Member Florida Building Officials Association |
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#15
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Would be curious what the ridge and decking looked like after it was stripped, along with some other pictures of the framing...the gable end doesn't provide much info.
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