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Exterior Inspections Contains discussions about the exterior portion of a home inspection. This includes roofs, gutters, downspouts, decks, patios, windows, etc.

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  #1  
Old 3/12/07, 8:26 PM
David C. Macy's Avatar
David C. Macy David C. Macy is online now
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Default Valley

How would you identify the valley.

1.Asphalt
2.Not visible

When the roofer shingles over the valley is there a metal valley underneath?

The roof is the 2nd layer. Are they just using the old valley below.

Would you report the valley as not visible or identify as asphalt.

I thought the area between roofs was a potential leaker.

Also if there is no drip edge at the gutter do you report it as missing? You can not see in the photo. I have not seen the screw attachment for the gutters. Looks like a couple screws are backing out.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 3/12/07, 9:31 PM
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Default Re: Valley

Looks like a "western cut" valley as a "room addition/roofer" explained to me once. The shingles lap underneath on one side of the valley. My old house leaked there when it rained real hard after they added on a sunroom. The underlap was not enough. Needs to be at least 8 inches.

Drip edges are not done around here but might be required up north.



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  #3  
Old 3/12/07, 10:00 PM
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Default Re: Valley

By second layer, I assume (I know I should never use that word) that this is what we call a roof over. If so , the you would not see the valley metal unless you can see it under the first layer at the edge of the roof. That is a woven valley, which is quite common.

Are you sure that is a second layer of shingles. Usually dont see that with a ridge vent. At least here in Fl, ridge vents are a fairly new phenonemon.

Also, usually with a roof over there should be a drip egde present. Maybe you guys in Ohio do it differently than us Southern folk.
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  #4  
Old 3/12/07, 10:03 PM
Jae Williams Jae Williams is offline
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Default Re: Valley

Lately, the builder's roofers have not been using drip edges -- and it shows.

All the quality roofing companies here require the drip edge --and it shows.



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  #5  
Old 3/12/07, 10:11 PM
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Bruce A. King Bruce A. King is offline
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Default Re: Valley

I will have to post a picture of the woven valleys on my house.
Those pictures are not woven valleys as I know them.
A woven valley has no crack down the center.

those pictured are also called mitered valleys


Here is a woven valley
http://www.stargroup.com/Residential...html~mainFrame



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Last edited by bking; 3/12/07 at 10:27 PM..
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  #6  
Old 3/12/07, 11:04 PM
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Default Re: Valley

This is a single cut mitered valley, one side should extend 12 to 16 inches past the valley transition. the opposing side is then cut along the transition line, hence, the single cut mitered valley. Valley flashing on this type of roof can be seen at the leading edge where it falls into the gutter. Valley flashing is to reinforce the transition ( or bridge the gap ) where roofing does not generally conform to the substsate. It keeps you from tearing through the roofing if you step on it or a tree branch falls there, by forming a flexable yet reasonably solid substrate.
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  #7  
Old 3/13/07, 1:07 AM
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Default Re: Valley

I agree with Jae. Lack of drip edge shows Regardless of the climate, it helps preserve wood fascia and trim, cuts down on maintenance costs, and saves the homeowner money in the long run. They don't install it that often around here, either, but that doesn't mean they shouldn't. I always call it out and explain my reasons for doing so. What do roofers and builders think, they make that stuff just to sit on the shelves at Home Depot?

Jimmy B.
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  #8  
Old 3/13/07, 8:10 AM
dfogleman dfogleman is offline
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Default Re: Valley

This is a closed cut valley (picture is from the wrong angle and not close enough to be 100% sure) or maybe a california.

The concern here is none, this is an acceptable means of installation and it is not recommended that metal be installed prior to the shingles, however it is recommended that ice & water shield or a roll product is installed on the deck prior to the installation of the valley detail.

The details for this installation can be see at www.certainteed.com if you care to see it. The type of shingle you will look under will be called Landmark.
I will point out that one post noted that the shingles must underlap at least 8 inches, the spec is that they carry over not less than 12 inches and nailing in the valley must be kept out about the same.

Problems to look for with any valley is leaking of course, look also for poor workmanship which should have you look closer as you may find that the parts that are not readily visivle will be installed improperly too.

The shingle in the picture is a Certainteed Landmark in the color Colonial Slate, the product could be a 25 or 40 year product and is likely to be 5 years old or older. The black shadow highlights on the cap shingles and the field shingles are distinctive to this product

Note, with the type of shingle pictured, architectural/dimensional, call out when the valley is installed with a full weave! problems can occur when installed using the full weave and the factory spec's recommend against this method
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  #9  
Old 3/13/07, 4:22 PM
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Default Re: Valley

Hi to all,

This may help you to see it Dave

Regards

Gerry

(Image courtesy Michael Rowan Inspection Depot)
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  #10  
Old 3/14/07, 2:07 AM
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Default Re: Valley

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
How would you identify the valley.

1.Asphalt
2.Not visible

When the roofer shingles over the valley is there a metal valley underneath?

The roof is the 2nd layer. Are they just using the old valley below.

Would you report the valley as not visible or identify as asphalt.

I thought the area between roofs was a potential leaker.

Also if there is no drip edge at the gutter do you report it as missing? You can not see in the photo. I have not seen the screw attachment for the gutters. Looks like a couple screws are backing out.

Thanks
Concerning the drip edge it is the 2nd question on the NACHI Roof Exam. What is the flashing between roof covering and sheathing around the roofs perimeter? Drip Edge. In the lesson, under flashing systems it states " All eave and rake edges need a flashing to prevent rain water from wicking into the roof". It is the reason the edge flashings is referred to as drip edge. In the classes I've taken it always says there should be flashing around the full perimeter of the roof. Also here in southern Illinois we've been doing it for many years, I've installed many asphalt roofs and have always used it. Beside protecting the roof it gives you a straight edge and is the cheapest component,
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  #11  
Old 3/15/07, 4:14 PM
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David P. Valley David P. Valley is offline
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Default Re: Valley

Closed-Cut Valley
"Click to Enlarge"
Attachment 10032

Weaved Valley
"Click to Enlarge"
Attachment 10033

Last edited by dvalley; 10/7/07 at 5:40 PM..
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  #12  
Old 3/15/07, 6:58 PM
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David P. Valley David P. Valley is offline
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Default Re: Valley

Ohhhh...And don't forget the most important Valley. The renown David Valley
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  #13  
Old 3/15/07, 9:31 PM
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Default Re: Valley

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvalley
Ohhhh...And don't forget the most important Valley. The renown David Valley
And the next best Valley to David is the St. John Valley of Northern Aroostook County, Maine. Where you throw a rock in New Brunsick, Canada.
A mile from Town is a Parish by the name of Saint David, in the Valley.

Saint David is still alive. I be darn.

Marcel
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  #14  
Old 3/15/07, 10:03 PM
Jae Williams Jae Williams is offline
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Default Re: Valley

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvalley
Ohhhh...And don't forget the most important Valley. The renown David Valley
Never install a roof without one--(he can always go for coffee)(or beer).



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  #15  
Old 3/22/09, 12:01 AM
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Default Re: Valley

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwiley View Post
This is a single cut mitered valley, one side should extend 12 to 16 inches past the valley transition. the opposing side is then cut along the transition line, hence, the single cut mitered valley. Valley flashing on this type of roof can be seen at the leading edge where it falls into the gutter. Valley flashing is to reinforce the transition ( or bridge the gap ) where roofing does not generally conform to the substsate. It keeps you from tearing through the roofing if you step on it or a tree branch falls there, by forming a flexable yet reasonably solid substrate.
The part I bolded is wrong. The cut is supposed to be 2" away from that transition.
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