Valley

[Frank Albert]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

Concerning the drip edge it is the 2nd question on the NACHI Roof Exam. What is the flashing between roof covering and sheathing around the roofs perimeter? Drip Edge. In the lesson, under flashing systems it states " All eave and rake edges need a flashing to prevent rain water from wicking into the roof". It is the reason the edge flashings is referred to as drip edge. In the classes I've taken it always says there should be flashing around the full perimeter of the roof. Also here in southern Illinois we've been doing it for many years, I've installed many asphalt roofs and have always used it. Beside protecting the roof it gives you a straight edge and is the cheapest component,

After 40 years of roofing and chasing leaks and damage, I can assure you drip edge is not a cure-all. Runing the shingle 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" over the eave will suffice nicely and never cause damage.
Now, a drip edge only sticks out 1/2" and shingles run flush to it will allow water onto the fascia and water will wick under it too.
When I use DE, I run 1-1/4" past it. Here's a picture of mine with DE and the 1-1/4" over.
In the second picture, you can see where the water quit following the shingle bottom.

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by Frank Albert

After 40 years of roofing and chasing leaks and damage, I can assure you drip edge is not a cure-all. Runing the shingle 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" over the eave will suffice nicely and never cause damage.
Now, a drip edge only sticks out 1/2" and shingles run flush to it will allow water onto the fascia and water will wick under it too.
When I use DE, I run 1-1/4" past it. Here's a picture of mine with DE and the 1-1/4" over.
In the second picture, you can see where the water quit following the shingle bottom.

In your professional opinion, would this installation be sufficient?

[David P. Valley]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

In your professional opinion, would this installation be sufficient?

Absolutely not.

That flashing needs to be applied up onto the roof sheathing below the shingles.

[Frank Albert]

That's not flashing below those shingles. That's the gutter back. And it's the new improved way to build houses;
Use osb. Stop the sheathing at or behind the rafter end;
It's hard to close those gaps;
Notice that the starter course is a reversed shingle? No sealant on the bottom edge at all. It's supposed to be a 3-tab with the tabs removed to supply a sealer strip on the bottom edge. AND, the nails need to be in the starter just 1" up into the osb. As it is, a good wind will blow the bottom shingles off.
Which leads to another issue. The decking is unsupported because it stopped at the rafter ends, instead of the old, wasteful method of extending it over the fascia, which would support the decking. Now when you try to drive nails into the bottom edge of the osb, the osb breaks up and the nails don't have anything solid to hold them there.
How much shingle overhang do you have? 1 1/2" will work for water. Ice will get into the soffit there.......................

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by Frank Albert

That's not flashing below those shingles. That's the gutter back. And it's the new improved way to build houses;
Use osb. Stop the sheathing at or behind the rafter end;
It's hard to close those gaps;
Notice that the starter course is a reversed shingle? No sealant on the bottom edge at all. It's supposed to be a 3-tab with the tabs removed to supply a sealer strip on the bottom edge. AND, the nails need to be in the starter just 1" up into the osb. As it is, a good wind will blow the bottom shingles off.
Which leads to another issue. The decking is unsupported because it stopped at the rafter ends, instead of the old, wasteful method of extending it over the fascia, which would support the decking. Now when you try to drive nails into the bottom edge of the osb, the osb breaks up and the nails don't have anything solid to hold them there.
How much shingle overhang do you have? 1 1/2" will work for water. Ice will get into the soffit there.......................

Correct, the "flashing" is the back of gutter bent over, leaving approx. 3/4" gap between the facia and decking.

At the most there is a 1" shingle overhang. Even if rain water would drain properly, here we get our share of snow and ice, that I think the osb would soak right up. Also wind driven rain would be an issue.

[Frank Albert]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

Correct, the "flashing" is the back of gutter bent over, leaving approx. 3/4" gap between the facia and decking.

At the most there is a 1" shingle overhang. Even if rain water would drain properly, here we get our share of snow and ice, that I think the osb would soak right up. Also wind driven rain would be an issue.

You're as right as rain there!

[John Evans]

Where is the fascia?

[Marcel R. Cyr]

I think it is the gutter John.
The builder could not afford the pre-primed pine.

[Larry D. Kage]

Originally Posted by Frank Albert

After 40 years of roofing and chasing leaks and damage, I can assure you drip edge is not a cure-all. Runing the shingle 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" over the eave will suffice nicely and never cause damage.
Now, a drip edge only sticks out 1/2" and shingles run flush to it will allow water onto the fascia and water will wick under it too.
When I use DE, I run 1-1/4" past it. Here's a picture of mine with DE and the 1-1/4" over.
In the second picture, you can see where the water quit following the shingle bottom.

One doesn't just lean a ladder up against there and climb up then...

[Vince Santos]

Originally Posted by Frank Albert

After 40 years of roofing and chasing leaks and damage, I can assure you drip edge is not a cure-all. Runing the shingle 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" over the eave will suffice nicely and never cause damage.
Now, a drip edge only sticks out 1/2" and shingles run flush to it will allow water onto the fascia and water will wick under it too.
When I use DE, I run 1-1/4" past it. Here's a picture of mine with DE and the 1-1/4" over.
In the second picture, you can see where the water quit following the shingle bottom.

Here's a photo of shingles 1-1/4" off the drip edge. They have curled over and split. How can asphalt shingles hold form when they stick out that far with no support?

[David P. Valley]

Originally Posted by vsantos

Here's a photo of shingles 1-1/4" off the drip edge. They have curled over and split. How can asphalt shingles hold form when they stick out that far with no support?

Vince,

Even though a 1 1/4" overhang is a bit much, the problem with those architectural shingles is that the installer should not have cut the shingle so that it leaves a 1/4" of the tab at an overhang. Knowing that a small tab would remain, it should have been cut from the other end of the shingle or simply cut off.

[David P. Valley]

Originally Posted by lkage

One doesn't just lean a ladder up against there and climb up then...

Larry,

There appears to be a lower roof below that area (to stand on).

[Larry D. Kage]

Originally Posted by dvalley

Larry,

There appears to be a lower roof below that area (to stand on).

David, my comment is: What if there is no lower roof or the lower roof has the same shingle overhang to lean the ladder against?

[Frank Albert]

"Here's a photo of shingles 1-1/4" off the drip edge. They have curled over and split. How can asphalt shingles hold form when they stick out that far with no support? "
Though we went from eave to rake, that's done by faulty cutting on the install.
And shingles won't sag any on the rakes UNLESS; The installer did NOT precut them so they were only about 4" over before the trim cut. Some Mo-mo's will hang 1' or even 18" of shingle over the rake bending them to the point of no return.
Me, I trim cut, then install with 'heavies', lighter ones get precut to not exceed 3-4".

[David P. Valley]

Originally Posted by lkage

David, my comment is: What if there is no lower roof or the lower roof has the same shingle overhang to lean the ladder against?

I wasn't there. No need to argue the point. Simply ask.