Vinyl siding installation adverse weather condition

[Jeffrey R. Jonas]

Originally Posted by Barb Johnson

Cover walls with 1/2 inch high R Sheathing& Certainteed Monogramm over cedar shakes.

As I suspected. This is why I am not concerned with short term exposure to the elements. The original building envelope remained intact. The original moisture barrier will prevent migration of moisture to within the walls.

Also, rain will not have any effect on the new vinyl, the aluminum stock, and very little if any on the new insulation. The 1 x 3 furring may need to dry a day, but is typically kiln dried and doubt it will absorb enough moisture to revert back to 'green' moisture levels.

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Barb I am truly interested in hearing how your episode with the installers went.
Please excuse my mannerism at times. I do have the clients interest at heart as my fiduciary responsibility.
I have seen almost every manner of tradesmen deny responsibility for there actions. iE meaning; we always do it that way sir or madam. It will be fine, do not worry about it.
You did not mention you are covering ceder shakes. That is another kettle of fish.

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Originally Posted by Barb Johnson

I am paying for a new siding job. Contractor started 3 sides of house, never completing a side to the top, prior to a heavy rain storm. Contractors left when the rain came, but left the material exposed. Boxes of Aluminum clad for windows left outside, 1x3 for cladding, & vinyl in boxes, Dow TUFF-R insulation left outside.
I am concerned for 2 things. You shouldbe conserned about move than 2 things. Just my opinion Barbra.
1. Wind blown rain, seeping down the vinyl siding & the insulation board. Will this cause a moisture problem & affect Certaintee warranty.
2. I do not feel wet materials should be installed.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks

I am sorry I thought it was aluminum siding with attached glass insulation.


Barbra you left out one important KEY ELLAMENT.

If they are indeed shakes you must ripe them off. ( In my opinion )
Then again I would ripe of ether or shingle or shake.
CEDER SHAKES OR SHINGLES.
All the imfprmation is bellow.

#1: Is it better to install vinyl siding over wood shakes or have the shakes removed? Cost is not a problem I want to know what is the best way to install the siding.
#2: Are they wood shakes or wood shingles. Shingles normally have a fore to 7` exposure and are single course. It is alright to put vinyl siding over these if they are in good condition, (no curling and flat to the home). If you have shakes, (10 to 14` exposure, double coursed), I would prefer to remove them. They do not anchor the siding well and would push the siding out too far past the window and door frames.
#3: do you have VDB behind the system in place?
#4: Are the shingles in good shape? Painted not curled and cupped.
So I just asked 4 questions Barbra.
I can find all the imformation you need when the proper questions are asked and a decription is give of materials, systems, or structure..
Again please excause my manners the night before.
I tell all home owners to use a home inspector when doing maintenance, repairs, restorantion, or additions and building new homes now.
There are many willing to take your money and think they did a good job.
Then there are the others that take your maoney and really give you a job.

[Barb Johnson]

Wow, thanks for your help. Guess I will not know till down the road what kind of job I got.
The 7 inch cedar shakes were in good condition & painted. The contractor was to pull a permit, that has not been done to date. I keep asking (gently). I know I do not like the fascia board construction. Guess I just want to get everything done & get on with my life. Unfortunately, Will not be around this summer to handle all issues.
I may have the contractor write a warranty to extend to handle water problems if they arise. But in this economy warranties do not mean that much.
Thanks for your interest.

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Barbra, if they have a 7" inch exposure the are shingles not shakes as you mention.
VDB is vapor diffusive barrier. It allows moisture to travel in one direction only. It is preferred to use on sided homes.
As for your dilemma, if you took photos and dated everything and make sure the comtract is iron clade it will help you further down the road.
I do wish you all the luck in the world.
Brab, do the home inspection industry a favor as we try to inform the public as best as we can.
Next time anyone of your friends or yourself ANY ONE YOU KNOW gets work done to their home, hire a home inspector to do Job Oversight or phase inspections for bigger jobs. Its is not expensive.
You will save money. I promise you will get the job done RIGHT.
God bless you and your family Barb.

[Brian A. MacNeish]

Originally Posted by ryoung7

Barbra, if they have a 7" inch exposure the are shingles not shakes as you mention.
VDB is vapor diffusive barrier. It allows moisture to travel in one direction only. It is preferred to use on sided homes.

Robert:
Your level of building science does not allow you to make recommendations on products that exist only as concepts now. In different applications/conditions, vapour (moisture) can move either way across WRB's, sheathing papers, retarders, barriers depending on the conditions on opposite sides of the product.

There are some products developed to deal with the hardest climates to make choices in. Hopefully they may save us to some extent when we make poor choices or do poor work and moisture is in the wall system when/where we don't want it.
http://www.certainteed.com/resources/3028097.pdf
http://www.certainteed.com/products/...vention/317391



As for your dilemma, if you took photos and dated everything and make sure the comtract is iron clade it will help you further down the road.
I do wish you all the luck in the world.
Brab, do the home inspection industry a favor as we try to inform the public as best as we can.
Next time anyone of your friends or yourself ANY ONE YOU KNOW gets work done to their home, hire a home inspector to do Job Oversight or phase inspections for bigger jobs. Its is not expensive.
You will save money. I promise you will get the job done RIGHT.
God bless you and your family Barb.

Ensure the inspector you hire has experience as a general contractor, renovator, etc and is above average in dealing with items such as building science, moisture problems, indoor air quality. Make sure the knowledge is just not book or online training......experience means a lot in this stuff!!!

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Thank you Brian.
You just took the words out of my mouth.
I posted that thought late last night.
I was just coming back to post your exact thought.