What's with this. Comments?

[William J. Decker]

Saw this yesterday. Masonry garage with roof deck. Double wythe wall (cinderblock structure with brick veneer). The open space between the wythes was open at the parapet wall openings (for access railings).

Water intrusion into the walls inside the garage. Ceiling joists were OSB I beams. Signs of mold on plywood decking. Built in 2004. In Chicago.

Comments? How would you write this up.

[Bob Elliott]

Originally Posted by wdecker

Saw this yesterday. Masonry garage with roof deck. Double wythe wall (cinderblock structure with brick veneer). The open space between the wythes was open at the parapet wall openings (for access railings).

Water intrusion into the walls inside the garage. Ceiling joists were OSB I beams. Signs of mold on plywood decking. Built in 2004. In Chicago.

Comments? How would you write this up.

Yes tell them Any building constructed since 1970 should have rubber, plastic or metallic "flashing," a protective skirt that curves around joints to protect against moisture. When water does get through a wall, it collects on the flashing and is released through "weep holes," small openings in the masonry. These holes are most obvious at the top of the foundation wall.
3/16-inch-diameter weep holes every 33 inches at minimum, just above the flashing . Flashing, in turn, is recommended under the first course of masonry at ground level, above windows and doors, below window sills, and at any lintels and shelf angles

But all of the above is now redundant

Bet the Mason opens car windows with the AC on.

[Bob Elliott]

Bump

[Carl A. Brown]

A backer rod and sealant joint that was maintained would have been real nice and would be the fix for the water entry in the future.

[William J. Decker]

Originally Posted by cbrown1

A backer rod and sealant joint that was maintained would have been real nice and would be the fix for the water entry in the future.

1 1/2" backer rod? Didn't know they made it that big.

[Carl A. Brown]

http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx

[Bob Elliott]

Originally Posted by cbrown1

http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx

So a big backer rod and sealant would do it?
How would you finish it?

Also need moisture barrier under the concrete coping..right?

Think the CMU was treated?

Looks like they forgot to prime and paint the underside of that cast iron gate. (notice the rust spots on top of the concrete coping)

[William J. Decker]

Originally Posted by relliott

So a big backer rod and sealant would do it?
How would you finish it?

Also need moisture barrier under the concrete coping..right?

Think the CMU was treated?

Flashing was under the coping stone (surprisingly! ). The CMU (interior wall) was coated with Lock Tite.

And the coping stone was limestone, not concrete. You may be the condo guy, but I have very upper class clients.

BTW> The client was a former director of the state licensing authority. No pressure on this inspection, eh?

[Carl A. Brown]

Bob,
I would recommend a professional water proffer.

Will,
I hope that helps.

[William J. Decker]

Originally Posted by cbrown1

Bob,
I would recommend a professional water proffer.

Will,
I hope that helps.

Given the buyer's bright eyed desire to buy this place (the townhouse was, really, pretty good. This is just the garage.) I doubt it will. But, I wrote it down and reported it.

Don't you just hate it when the builder really messes things up and the client expects you to find a professional, workable and inexpensive fix for the situation that the builder created? Not buy the house, not an option. It's a foreclosure and they are getting it for a song. They are SOOOO smart, having a good credit rating, a job and a good mortgauge. Besides, the wife just LOVES the appliances and the trim carpentry!

But, when stuff goes south, they always want you to fix it. Besides, in Illinois, you cannot sue the city inspectors and just try to find the builder. He took his $100K and went back to Poland.

Go figure.

[Bob Elliott]

Originally Posted by wdecker

Flashing was under the coping stone (surprisingly! ). The CMU (interior wall) was coated with Lock Tite.

And the coping stone was limestone, not concrete. You may be the condo guy, but I have very upper class clients.

BTW> The client was a former director of the state licensing authority. No pressure on this inspection, eh?

Yeah
My clients are mostly just Judges,Lawyers and Engineering students.
That is about 75 to 80% .

They Just are smart enough to stay away from Highland Park.

Those Downtown Condo's are real low class right?

Skokie Police see my van and figure I am there to rob someone.

P.S Limestone is getting common on these and easy to miss in a picture.
What would you say as far as water absorption goes (how it compares to concrete)

Just did a building on Irving with lots of cracks in that stuff.

[William J. Decker]

Water goes through limestone (hence, stalactites), especially the thing stuff (< 1" thick). Good practices calls for the top to be beveled (thus to drain the water) have a drop edge and be flashed underneath.

This house had limestone window sill (exterior) that were 2" thick AND had flashing underneath, which is the first time I saw that.