I need some clarification, please: wording of the 2006 IRC.
703.8 (1) states the flashing is to extend to the surface of the exterior wall - or to the water resistive barrier for drainage.
703.8 (4) says flashing shall be installed continuously above all projecting wood trim. – I would assume (bad choice of wording) that 703.8(4) refers to wood trim other than at doors and windows ?
Flashing has not been installed above the window trim in the photos. A drip cap appears to be part of the upper window trim / inner seal.
Do you call this type of installation?
or include in comments?
Linda,
Many builders are doing that around here----where the flashing installation is as it should be if the trim weren’t there. They see the trim as “ornamental”–disposable in a sense. I agree that the trim above the window should be properly flashed. It is usually just caulked. I recommend that the caulk be maintained or proper flashings installed to prevent water from getting behind the board. Sooner or later this type of installation can/will lead to problems.
Here are some pics from a moisture intrusion inspection on a brick home where the caulk that sealed the window frame to the lintel had shrunk and allowed water to come in and migrate to the basement. The builder couldn’t find the problem and was dependant on my results. Home is about 15 months old.
Yes I would call out a drip cap is missing on the first picture 100_9754b.jpg
The second photo appears to have a large overhang negating the need for a drip cap.
I guess not. Moisture came in on upper level and worked its way down the interior of the wall and ended up in the basement. The mortar weeps were gouged out after the brick was laid. What’s a moisture barrier?? “No habla egles”
A good chance if it had a house wrap on it the pulled it in at the head of the lower window instead of over it. As per the leader of the crap wraps instalation specs until a couple years ago! (tyvek) DUPONT And I have heard tell cement eats tyvek up anyway!
If the bricklayer used tarpaper he put it on over the bottom nail fin of the upper window makeing a funnel.
They also say to tape all the joints on the tyvek and that traps moisture in the assembly once it gets in. It also traps moisture in thats from in the house trying to get out. ie: vapor after it condenses! In the winter time for you and me. OSB for sheathing?
In the Building Science IR Class we were told that Tyvek must not be installed upside down or it will not work as designed, chemical exposure (from nails) also degrade it.
Can DuPont™ Tyvek® be used with the lettering facing in?
DuPont™ Tyvek® HomeWrap®, DuPont™ Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, DuPont™ Tyvek® DrainWrap™ and DuPont™ Tyvek® CommercialWrap® are equally effective in both directions. However, DuPont™ Tyvek® StuccoWrap® and DuPont™ Tyvek® DrainWrap™
have a specially engineered surface that should be placed with the grooves in a vertical direction.
Why should I tape seams in the DuPont™ Tyvek®?
Taping the seams with DuPont™ Tyvek® Tape gives you the best Tyvek® to Tyvek® adhesion, optimal protection against air and bulk water penetration, and extra durability protection during the building’s construction phase.
What type of fasteners is recommended when installing DuPont™ Tyvek®?
DuPont™ Tyvek® can be installed using a variety of fasteners depending on the application. To attach DuPont™ Tyvek® to wood, insulated sheathing board or exterior gypsum board, use nails with plastic washer heads, such as DuPont™ Tyvek® Wrap Caps. You may choose to use wide staples with a minimum 1” crown. For steel frame construction use DuPont™ Tyvek® Wrap Cap Screws.
All I know is that it is not any harder to install it with the lettering right side up.
Maybe it is because they can not read.
