Window flashing --

[jlybolt]

Linda, I agree there should be a cap flashing. In my area the majority new construction homes you do not see cap flashing anywhere. I recently just started noting it in my report although it seems like a waste of time. The flashing below the window trim near the window should not be caulked .

[Carl A. Brown]

Brian,

Can you share your paper?

[Larry D. Kage]

Why would a guy want to flash windows? Wouldn't think that'd be much fun...hardly worth opening the raincoat.

[Carl A. Brown]

Larry,

Are you a flasher?????

[Larry D. Kage]

Shhhh...I don't know where that came from...still checking...

[Carl A. Brown]

Brian,

What are your thoughts about Pactivs Raindrop/GreenGuard?

https://pactivnet.pactiv.com/Product...A5FBF6DF%5D%5D

Thanks Carl

[Marcel R. Cyr]

I guess weather barriers did not mean too much to this guy, but he did not forget the flashing.

Attachment 15590 Attachment 15591

Marcel

[Carl A. Brown]

Thanks Marcel!!

I just spit pepsi all over myself!

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Hope you did not jolt that neck of yours,


Attachment 15592

I wasn't even out of my truck when I saw that one.

Marcel

[Carl A. Brown]

I guees a picture is worth several words!


The neck is ok.

[Brian A. MacNeish]

Originally Posted by cbrown1

Brian,

With all due respect.

I have seen water trapped in the tyvek with my own eyes!

Where did the water come from- inside or outside? If it got in from outside there is a flashing or application problem somewhere! I have seen a Tyvek display where they ran water on the Tyvek for a day with no penetration. Not that there haven't been other problems with the new sheathing membranes as well as tarpaper in the highly efficient, superinsulated airtight homes. If the latter is wetted continually and the water is trapped (by cappilary effects, storage in wood based sidings and not free to drain away), it deteriorates.

And was the water trapped? This is the more permeable of the sheathing membranes and as such should allow small amounts of moisture to easily breathe away.....but if that water gets constantly/repeatedly replaced by whatever means, we have another problem, not a Tyvek problem!!

A moisture barrier should never have the horizontal joints sealed.

Tyvek, Typar and other housewraps are designed to be (1) a membrane that sheds any bulk water that bypasses the siding, (2) an exterior air barrier that prevents wind from penetratng into wall cavity insulations, decreasing the R value and possibly bringing water with it (It is well known in high wind areas, water will follow wind/air into walls and even uphill!!) (3) a permeable membrane that will allow small amounts of water vapour to diffuse outward. If there is excessive and constant water in the wall, where is it coming from?

In order for #2 to be achieved, the joints should be taped.

And should never be put on behind flashing and have the flashings taped to it!

TRUE!!
The membrane should have a horizontal slit cut in it at the appropriate height and the upper leg of the flashing slipped in and up behind the membrane first and then the membrane be taped to the flashing to maintain the air barrier qualities.

Air barrier maybe not moisture barriers! It is one or the other.

It can be both if you understand how the newer buildings work differently than Grampy's. We've dealt with most of these issues up here in Canada. (Joe Lstiburek, principal at Building Science Corporation and populizer of building science[ www.buildingscience.com ] is Canadian) About 6 years ago, we introduced "The House-as-a-System" and Building Science in the first year carpentry courses in our trade schools here in Nova Scotia. (Note: I sat on the Program Advisory Committee then)

(Another Note: Most of 2005, I spent time on the Fine Home Building forums. I found some progressive builders there who would make most architects and engineers go back to school with their knowledge of new building wall systems for low energy, trouble free houses....... PERSIST or REMOTE wall systems, stress skin panels and the like.
http://cchrc.org/REMOTE%208-2-06.pdf

Like someone said on another thread here today: "This stuff is not rocket science but building science"......... been saying this for years!!

[Carl A. Brown]

I will take GRAMPYS house any day over a house with tyvek or typar on it!

The water would not have been trapped if the horizontal joints were not taped! The last siminar I went to last year the tyvek rep said they have gone to what he called spot taping on the horizontal joints! I wonder why?

God forbid an EXPERT ever be wrong.

Or a material mfgr, worry more about profit rather then the buying public.

[Brian A. MacNeish]

Originally Posted by cbrown1

I will take GRAMPYS house any day over a house with tyvek or typar on it!

It takes an attitudinal change, a wiilingness to understand the building science and changes of techniques......or else we'd all still be living in log cabins. Imagine when they told Grampy he could go to the bathroom indoors.....in the house.......after thousands of years of his ancestors going outdoors!!!!

The water would not have been trapped if the horizontal joints were not taped! The last siminar I went to last year the tyvek rep said they have gone to what he called spot taping on the horizontal joints! I wonder why?

God forbid an EXPERT ever be wrong.

Or a material mfgr, worry more about profit rather then the buying public.

Well. In Grampy's house, you went to the washroom outside even in the coldest weather, not all rooms ever got real warm, you burnt wood or coal and got a Saturday night bath, sometimes in second hand water. I like our homes now better!!

We've been using these products up here for 20 years now. Yes' there have been some failures but these have been worked through and our codes have changed to reflect new products and effects from having energy efficient houses.

Our older houses dried quickly when they got wet (and they did get wet....I used to run a siding, roofing, window, roofing, insulation company so saw a lot) but not from good design or practice but from good luck- the heat and warm air we worked for to make us comfortable leaked outward through a sieve of a home to dry the wetted areas around unsealed wood trim and other joints in the days up to the 1940-50's when we didn't caulk to keep water out.

But fuel was cheap then......OIL WAS ALMOST US $92 PER BARREL last week and don't think that natgas will not follow it upwards.....just 2 years ago it peaked at $15 per million btu's wholesale, not the $6-7 it is now!!

[mthomas2]

Getting back to that first pic, is this condesnaton on the inside of the glass?

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Re "Tyvek must not be installed upside down",

may have been refering to its being "reverse shingled" (an upper piece installed behind a lower one):