Question about pull down attic stairs

[David P. Valley]

Originally Posted by mcyr

It will give us something to write in our reports though, right?

Marcel
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Exactly.

As I said, it's simply a recommendation to upgrade if your client was interested in a fire rated pull-down. Other than that, it's good ole' 5/8" fire rated drywall.

As you stated, many builders will install the cheapest version of pull-downs in order to recoup their costs and make profits at the same time.

[jkormos]

Well if it is in the garage, and if there is a fire wall separation between the garage attic area and the living space attic area then no problem.

[waksell]

Originally Posted by dvalley

Exactly.

As I said, it's simply a recommendation to upgrade if your client was interested in a fire rated pull-down. Other than that, it's good ole' 5/8" fire rated drywall.

As you stated, many builders will install the cheapest version of pull-downs in order to recoup their costs and make profits at the same time.

This is what I was looking for. I hate to criticize something without giving a possible solution.

[Barry Adair]

I called Memphis Stairs again and they sent out 18 pages about their products built with Dricon Fire Retardant Treated wood http://www.dricon.com/

[jhugenroth]

Originally Posted by jkormos

Well if it is in the garage, and if there is a fire wall separation between the garage attic area and the living space attic area then no problem.

Problem is, most I've seen DON'T have a fire wall between garage attic and house.

[InspectorRiggs]

How many of you guys would actually write that up? It would seem that unless you are doing a Code Inspection, mentioning code deficiencies on an occupied structure could get you into hot water....because if you mention ONE code deficiency, and not any others that probably will exist, you have opened yourself up now to everything you don't happen to catch.

[jhugenroth]

Originally Posted by InspectorRiggs

How many of you guys would actually write that up? It would seem that unless you are doing a Code Inspection, mentioning code deficiencies on an occupied structure could get you into hot water....because if you mention ONE code deficiency, and not any others that probably will exist, you have opened yourself up now to everything you don't happen to catch.

I always write it up. I don't mention code.It is written up as a safety concern.

Most safety issues have their basis in code anyway. A lack of a GFCI in a new house bathroom receptacle is a "code" item, yet you wouldn't hesitate to write that up, would you?

[David P. Valley]

Originally Posted by InspectorRiggs

How many of you guys would actually write that up? It would seem that unless you are doing a Code Inspection, mentioning code deficiencies on an occupied structure could get you into hot water....because if you mention ONE code deficiency, and not any others that probably will exist, you have opened yourself up now to everything you don't happen to catch.

I red flag these on a weekly basis. I'm not into code compliance, I'm looking out for the safety of my clients.

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Originally Posted by InspectorRiggs

How many of you guys would actually write that up? It would seem that unless you are doing a Code Inspection, mentioning code deficiencies on an occupied structure could get you into hot water....because if you mention ONE code deficiency, and not any others that probably will exist, you have opened yourself up now to everything you don't happen to catch.

Noting or writing up as you call it of a fold down stairwell would not necessarily denote or admit that you are quoting Code Compliance.
That is not our job.

Writing up a folding stairwell that was observed as being installed contrary to the Manufacturers Specifications for installation is our job.
When a big red sticker says screw here and I see a clinched sixteen penny nailed from the opposite side, I will write it up too.

Sometimes one has to bend forward to the fact the Manufactures have evolved to recommending certain procedures to install their Products for a reason unknown to many unless deep research is done to find out why.

Bottom line, is write hard and teach. There are certain standards of installations that need to be adhered too, that might pertain to the safety of the occupants of the dwelling.


Hope this helps.

Marcel

[Scott Schultz]

I agree 100%. Though I apply today's standards to every house. I could be inspecting abe lincoln's log cabin and if it doesn't have gfci in the necessary places, it gets written as a safety hazard. Realtors usually say,"it was code when it was built" but my philosophy is that the house should updated to conform to today's standards. Example....I inspected a house in which the gas water heater was in a "closet" in the garage....flush with the wall. The closet was tiny, basically enough space only for the heater and the heater was on the floor. It said right on the heater that it needed to be 18 inches off the floor if installed in a flammable area. The realtor called me and asked if I looked where it was installed to see there wasn't room to raise it. Well, then you should have put an electric heater in.

[jhugenroth]

Originally Posted by Scott Schultz

I agree 100%. Though I apply today's standards to every house. I could be inspecting abe lincoln's log cabin and if it doesn't have gfci in the necessary places, it gets written as a safety hazard. Realtors usually say,"it was code when it was built" but my philosophy is that the house should updated to conform to today's standards. Example....I inspected a house in which the gas water heater was in a "closet" in the garage....flush with the wall. The closet was tiny, basically enough space only for the heater and the heater was on the floor. It said right on the heater that it needed to be 18 inches off the floor if installed in a flammable area. The realtor called me and asked if I looked where it was installed to see there wasn't room to raise it. Well, then you should have put an electric heater in.

I know this has been talked about on another thread, but electric water heaters have an ignition source ( heating element) that should be 18" from the floor in a garage as well.

[Scott Schultz]

So what's the answer? the IPC states that electric water heaters don't need to be raised but others think there is an ignition source. Is there anything out there, studies or something, that prove that electric heaters can be ignited by automobile fumes? If so then that'll settle it for me and I'll recommend that ALL heaters be raised. Usually, you will see the electric ones raised but I thought that was to protect it from getting hit by the car.

[Bruce M. Graham, III]

Yesterdays inspection, the pull down was cut 6" too short AND it was jsut sitting on the trim no nail, screws, biling wire, bubble gum, or duct tape. I am gald I caught it because there was a new lexus parked under it.

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

I use this as a reference for how to retro-fit in my reports:

http://www.aohomeinspection.com/pdf/Firewalls.pdf

[Bruce A. King]

Originally Posted by Scott Schultz

So what's the answer? the IPC states that electric water heaters don't need to be raised but others think there is an ignition source. Is there anything out there, studies or something, that prove that electric heaters can be ignited by automobile fumes? If so then that'll settle it for me and I'll recommend that ALL heaters be raised. Usually, you will see the electric ones raised but I thought that was to protect it from getting hit by the car.

I used to think the electric ones had an ignition source but the intent and location of the code relates to gas fired appliances.

The contactors in the electric water heaters are adequately sealed to not allow any sparks. The elements do not spark unless a wire is loose on one.

The gas water heaters also need to be protected by a steel post.