International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Electrical Inspections Contains discussions about electrical systems. This includes receptacles, panels, wiring, etc. |
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#1
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I was in an attic last week and noted the wire to and from the light in the attic was a 2-wire connection. I think it was a 14/2 but for sure a 2-wire connection. It's a new build, 2004, 3900sqft and is in Phx. AZ.
The rest of the house is normal 3-wire with all the GFCI and Arcs working as required. Why use 2-wire for an attic light and is it approved? thanks for your help |
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#2
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Please Note:
Speedy Petey is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Are you saying 2-wire without ground? If so then yes, that would never have been legal, in the past 40 years or so.
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#3
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Please Note:
Marc D. Shunk is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Hang on here a second... if that was a nonmetallic box and a nonmetallic fixture, no ground is required. If there's something metallic involved, then you need the ground.
Did this look like something a handy homeowner might have added after the construction with some long-leftover romex that didn't have a ground? |
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#4
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Please Note:
Greg Fretwell is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
I like to see people coil up the ground wire of Romex in the bottom of the box when they come into an all plastic termination bit I have seen people just cut it off at the jacket. I really can't think of a violation. It just makes things tough if the luminaire changes.
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#5
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I often wonder why people will work so hard to save $.50. True, if there are no metallic components a ground would technically not be required (where would you terminate the wire?). Although the practice may be poor, I would not write it up
Frank P. Newman Emerald City Inspections, LLC Dublin, GA |
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#6
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Thanks guys. The house is a $1.1mil house and it is not a DIY add-on light. The box is plastic with a switch that controls a normal light one would find in a closet.
thanks for the info, I learn something everytime I read this! |
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#7
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Hmmm - now that you tell us that, it puts a different "light" on the situation. Given new information, I would say that the switch should have a connected ground, which should be extended to the grounding terminal or pigtail for the fixture (unless it is totall non-metallic).
Frank P. Newman Emerald City Inspections, LLC Dublin, GA |
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#8
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Please Note:
Greg Fretwell is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Yup if the switch has a metal yoke it must be bonded. I have seen some dimmers that were all plastic tho. Can the plastic switch yoke be far behind?
These days it is all about speed. Labor costs more than parts although copper is getting expensive too. Less terminations saves time. I suppose we could see NM without a ground (they do still make it) used for all plastic lighting runs, smokes etc. I am never amazed at what they do to save a few bucks ... even on that $1.1 mil house. |
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#9
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Again, thanks, guys.
the info I now have will help next time. |
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