Clamp amp meters

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by gkay

Quality, safety, true rms.

This link takes you to flukes' ABC's of multi meter safety. Take the time to learn what makes a quality meter and how to use them safely.

http://support.fluke.com/find-sales/...16_eng_h_w.pdf

If it makes a difference to you I used to test product to UL/CSA 61010-1.

When you say quality, safety and true RMS are you saying one has it and the other doesn't?
Do have a source of more detailed info?
I couldn't verify that from the specs.

BTW-Fluke products are great and I have used them for 40 years.

[Sonny C. Shipler]

I use a Fieldpiece sc67. Does everything you need. Vac,Vdc,Ohms,amps,temp,continuity,mfd. I think I paid 175.

[gkay]

When you say quality, safety and true RMS are you saying one has it and the other doesn't?
Do have a source of more detailed info?
I couldn't verify that from the specs.

No Michael thats not what I'm saying. I'm sure the P3 you suggested has its applications but in my opinion I didn't think it would suit D.C. Macey's needs. Since he also seems to be new at using electrical meters I thought the price range of $25 dollars coming from a respectable person as yourself might mislead him into buying an inferior meter. The site I refered to was for safety and operation. I am sure there are many less expensive meters that would suit the same purposes.
I'm sure Fluke would be happy to verify any questions regarding specs.

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

Originally Posted by tphillips

Jeff,
I don't use one. Thinking about it though. Could you explain what you use it for on every inspection?
Tom

As William stated, I use it to check the load on condenser units - remember, I'm in CA, so there's rarely a case where I won't run the A/C. So that's the "every inspection" part. I guess the exception would be when the home does not have A/C.

[Linas I. Dapkus]

I have a Fluke 332. Cost about $125. Here's more info on clamp meters:
http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+330.htm

Check out the info on the bottom left.

[David C. Macy]

Originally Posted by jpope

As William stated, I use it to check the load on condenser units - remember, I'm in CA, so there's rarely a case where I won't run the A/C. So that's the "every inspection" part. I guess the exception would be when the home does not have A/C.

I have a question for you. When you are testing the load on a condenser what are your parameters for checking. Do you go off the manufacturer's data plate.

I guess since I have never used a clamp meter or tested a condenser with one I was just curious how you went about testing.

[David A. Andersen]

There is a rating on the nameplate for compressor and fan motor.

Note: The compressor will run at all different loads and the amp draw will change all over the place as well.

There are name plates on all motors and compressors themselves as well.

There are three wires (legs) going to a single phase compressor; common, start & run. The amperage in not going to be the same threw all three legs (so you must select your wires wisely).

Three phase (three wire) compressors should have a balanced load across all three.

None of the amp readings should exceed nameplate.

[Wayne B. Wilson]

http://www.amprobe.com/cgi-bin/pdc/v...in_e&type=elec
I have the older version but works the same , I have all attachments also comes in handy if you need them

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

Originally Posted by dmacy

I have a question for you. When you are testing the load on a condenser what are your parameters for checking. Do you go off the manufacturer's data plate.

I guess since I have never used a clamp meter or tested a condenser with one I was just curious how you went about testing.

There are no "hard and fast" rules when checking condensers. But generally, you should expect the condenser to be drawing 60% to 75% of its maximum circuit rating. Higher draws may indicate that the unit is working to hard and may be near to failing.

Lower draws may indicate that the system is low on refrigerant, and the compressor is not working hard at all.

In any event, you should never rely solely on the readings of your meter. As with most meters/equipment, you should be looking and/or listening for other indicators that there are problems with the system.

[Thomas D. Phillips]

Thanks for the info guys

[Joseph T. Burkeson, CMI]

Originally Posted by wthacker

It can be used to check running load amps (RLA) of the outside A/C unit. RLA info is typically on the nameplate data.

That is fairly outside a generalist inspection wouldn't you say? What would be your next step when discovering a high amp reading?

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

It's just an indicator Joe. A unit with an excessive load could mean the compressor is failing or nearing the end of its useful life.

Often in these cases, I will stress the importance (in writing) of keeping a home-warranty plan in place, to cover the "likely" event that the unit may fail in the very near future.

[William E. Siegel]

It's just an indicator. A unit with an excessive load could mean the compressor is failing or nearing the end of its useful life.

Excellent point. It can be very helpful in warding off that call 'you inspected my AC unit and said it was workig. I moved in and the compressor died.' That reading has helped me and probably saved me grief many times. If the fan is easily accessible, I will also take a reading on that too. It is listed on the labe.

[Brian E. Kelly]

Originally Posted by jpope

It's just an indicator Joe. A unit with an excessive load could mean the compressor is failing or nearing the end of its useful life.

Often in these cases, I will stress the importance (in writing) of keeping a home-warranty plan in place, to cover the "likely" event that the unit may fail in the very near future.

I had that exact phrase used against me in a Lawsuit. I no longer mention Warranty companies in my report.

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

Can you elaborate on this Brian? What was their argument?