Dishwasher on a switch?

[Paul W. Abernathy]

Originally Posted by Speedy Petey

*edit - Man you guys are quick. I can't post fast enough.*

I thought you were going to bed Paul? Meds must be kicking in, huh?

Actually I must disagree that the "off" switch of a modern DW is an acceptable form of disconnect. It must disconnect all ungrounded conductors. Most newer DW's do not have this function.
My newer Kitchen Aid has touch pad controls. All the are are controls, none are actually switches that break connections.
The point is to safely service the appliance and simply using the on/off switch still leaves plenty of live conductors inside the unit.
Commercial units that do have a "unit switch" which actually mechanically breaks the incoming line would qualify.

NO, opening to door does not disconnect power either. It simply shuts the unit off.

As far as the importance of this disconnect, I have no answer, just another opinon.
Is it critically important? No, not really. Anyone working on a DW, oven, stove, etc., should know enough to turn off the power and VERIFY that it is off. If they are in an environment where there is a chance power might be restored by accident they should be certian this is not possible (ie: breaker locks or a locked panel or panel room).
Thing is... a local disconnect eliminates all these variables.

Why ovens and stoves get a "bye" on this issue is beyond me. I have never installed a disconnect or receptacle for either, and have NEVER been gigged or asked to install one, at least in a reisdence.
Free standing ranges and commercial applications are another story.

I disagree.....the ones I install from Whirlpool do very well disconnect the ungrounded from the point of the OFF switch to the unit and under 422.34 meet that allowance. Have you actually tested this function on a newer dishwasher....does so on my whirlpool......

[Speedy Petey]

Ok then. I learned something.

[Paul W. Abernathy]

Speedy,

The allowance of section 422.34 is not a CATCH ALL....simply a method that the NEC allows. If the button on your unit has a direct OFF option and it is listed as such....check that the voltage going OUT to the units motor and heater is not disconnected from power......yes the CURRENT is still in the unit and yes it could be an issue......but not one I would be too overly concerned with as the NEC says it is acceptable......but either way..it could have a switch...not a problem ( as I said I like my cord and plug method myself...lol...) but either way most service guys will turn off the breaker at the panel before service anyway....if they are SMART.....

[Paul W. Abernathy]

Originally Posted by Speedy Petey

Ok then. I learned something.

Naw.....you knew 422.34 was their my fine fella.........just so many different makes of dishwashers and such......they all have different methods.....

I think the NEC is just giving an allowance for it.......personally A switch is fine under the sink.....if not using a cord and plug...not sure why someone would not just rough in a plug under the counter for this....but hey different strokes for different folks......

I do agree.....even if the OFF is truly disconnecting the current to the units heater and motor....you wont find me relying on it.....however they say in doing so you could work in the unit and not have a problem....personally I am throwing the breaker...regardless....switch or no switch....