Dryer Outlet Testing?

[Doug Edwards, CMI]

Use either the Fluke or a voltage sniffer if no dryer present. If the breaker is tripped off I do not reset to test but note it (and any others) in the report. Find a lot of dryer outlets not secured to anything, just hanging or dangling by the cable and often without a NM clamp. Lots of poor workmanship.

[Paul W. Abernathy]

Or you can use a non-contact ticker and be done with it.... if both sides TICK....you are good enough......once you go into the panel you will also be able to ensure it is connected correctly...but about all you can do.

[Doug Edwards, CMI]

Yep Paul,
That's what I mean by voltage sniffer...I use a Greenlee. It is real sensitive so it begins to chirp without having to get that right on top of something. Comes in handy in the narrow attic spaces where sometimes all you can do is stretch out to check a piece of disconnected NM cable.

[Rick A. Harrington]

What is the model number of the Fluke that is shown in the picture?

Thanks,

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

Originally Posted by rharrington

What is the model number of the Fluke that is shown in the picture?

Thanks,

Fluke T3 Voltage and Continuity Tester

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Ac...ukeProducts%29

$64.81 (including shipping) at: http://store.yahoo.com/tmt/googlefluke.html

[Jay Moge]

Originally Posted by Greg Fretwell

A more definititive test would be to check across the hots for 240v. It could be wired wrong and get 120v to ground from both sides.

good point Greg, forgot about that. can you quickly describe a situation to me were both legs will read 120, and not have 240 across the hots? not trying to be a wise ***, but i can't think of it.

[nbhi]

Is the Fluke tester a sniffer?
Doug where did u get the greenlee sniffer? What about cost?

[Jason A. Sieg, CMI]

Originally Posted by Jay Moge

good point Greg, forgot about that. can you quickly describe a situation to me were both legs will read 120, and not have 240 across the hots? not trying to be a wise ***, but i can't think of it.

I worked for an electrician who had another guy hook up a 220v receptacle to two 110v breakers that were not side-by-side. They were across from each other. Both on the same bus bar in the panel. The receptacle had the same 110v to both sides of the receptacle... he might as well had just connected a jumper from one screw to the other. Both sides had 110v but together it didn't add up to 220v only 110v.

Was that clear enough? It's late for me.

[Jay Moge]

Originally Posted by jsieg

I worked for an electrician who had another guy hook up a 220v receptacle to two 110v breakers that were not side-by-side. They were across from each other. Both on the same bus bar in the panel. The receptacle had the same 110v to both sides of the receptacle... he might as well had just connected a jumper from one screw to the other. Both sides had 110v but together it didn't add up to 220v only 110v.

Was that clear enough? It's late for me.

yeah that does. voltage ontop of voltage vs. voltage next to voltage. that would double the flow, but not the juice right? like parallel vs. series.

[Doug Edwards, CMI]

Gary,
I got the Greenlee at Home Depot for about $15 if I remember. I have a couple of others that work just fine too, both are made by GB but not as sensitive but about $10 each. The only reason I bought the Greenlee was I was on the way to an inspection and the battery was dead as a doornail in one of the GB's and the other had been loaned out. I never go into a crawlspace or an attic without one. It slips right into a pocket or a fannypack for easy access.

[Greg Fretwell]

You can also get a "same phase" problem if someone uses a piggyback breaker instead of a real 2 pole.The reason this strategy is flawed when trouble shooting is you will see 120v to ground on both sides with one open phase, through the load.

[David A. Andersen]

NACHI SOP ; Not Required To;

A. Insert any tool, probe or device into the main or sub-panels.

This is not a panel but...

There is no "tester" for the dryer circuit. Using a meter is not a requirement. Taking the plug apart is not required.

Do you "have to", I don't think so.
Should you? That would be nice if you feel OK with it.

[Tab M. Wilcox]

Several years ago I was doing an inspection and found a conditon that is like what you are talking about. All the lights and plugs had power but I could not make any of the 240 volt equipment work. When I measured the voltage between ground and each leg I read 120 volts. I measured between legs and I read zero volts. I measured zero volts across each 240 volt breaker in the panel. What is going on ??? On this particular distribution panel the cover which gives access to the meter base lugs was unsecured (these typically are wired shut so only the power company can access). I looked inside and found that the power company had removed one leg (must have been bad) and installed a jumper between the one good leg and the lug that had the bad leg. The house was only being supplied with 120 volts.

[Tab M. Wilcox]

One other note: I do not make it a practice to enter this area of any distribution panel, but by the time I decided to do it I had spent a long time on the problem and was probably too anxious to figure it out.

[Paul W. Abernathy]

Greg,

You can also get a "same phase" problem if someone uses a piggyback breaker instead of a real 2 pole.The reason this strategy is flawed when trouble shooting is you will see 120v to ground on both sides with one open phase, through the load.

This is why about all they can do is check with a "Sniffer" and then make sure it is done correctly in the panel. I would advise the HI's against doing any ACTUAL testing while doing the inspection other than with a Suretest device or simular and visual observation.

If they start "FLUKING" around they could open themselves of to going beyond the SOP...and then someone saying why in the "FLUKING" did you not "FLUKE" them all.....so to speak.

Guys..keep it general......"SNIFF" if and if you think it is ok to "FLUKE" thats up to you....but thats about all the HI's are expected to do on these circuits.

Translation for the younger kids - FLUKING is the use of a FLUKE meter....