Is this GFCI breaker wiring OK?
I have seen GFI breakers that have two tails. One for the line neutral connection to the bar, and another to splice to the load neutral.
Did you follow both wires? I don’t see a screw for the load neutral.
My concern was the neutral and tail in the same slot on the breaker.
It’s manufactured that way. They are not under a screw.
They are both factory tails.
One of those tails is white (line) and one is white with a black stripe (load).
Looks like rust discoloration on the breaker. Water infiltration? Condensation? Damp ambient?
Marc, do you mean the brown spots? To me that looks like (factory) epoxy to seal the unused holes in the breaker.
Yeah, that’s what I was seeing. Looks like rust blobs to me. I’ve only seen maybe a half-dozen of this style GFCI ever, so epoxy didn’t enter my mind. On second look, that’s what it seems to be; epoxy.
Say, do you recognize the brand? I don’t. Late 70’s GE would be my guess.
ITE Gould. I’d say mid-late 80’s.
lol…the only problem I see is…
I call those out on 90% of the homes I inspect.
I’m getting tired of explaining why they neutrals need to be separated and why only one per screw.
You and me both, brutha’ :mrgreen:
lol…thats why you set up a “PRE” done verbiage in your reports…one click…whamo…don’t need to personally explain it again…
You know…Speedy made a good educational point here that I would LOVE Marc and Greg and Peter as well as others to chime in on for sake of…well…because I am waiting to fly to florida and hell I like typing.
What if that GFCI pictured ( which does have the older style two legs for the grounded conductor ) did not have a pigtail on the grounded conductor coming back from the 120V branch…and both the white and the white with black stripe were placed onto the grounded buss bar…
Do you think it would possible have an effect on the GFCI breaker or not…and if you do not think so…why is that now they all feed through the breaker first before going to the grounded bussbar…
You can have all the boiler plate verbiage you want on your report, but you’re still going to continuously get the majority of your clients asking “Why”.
I don’t know about the rest of you, but I have my client’s walk right next to me and I talk them through the entire inspection on all of my inspections. They have lots of questions and I always supply them with the exact information they are seeking.
Answering my client’s questions is my passion.
Ahhh…good point…
I was kinda refering to the report only having to explain it but you are right…many times they are right up in your face wanting to know so yep it is good to know why it is a problem.
Hey I got an idea…do a pre-recorded message on a digital recorder and play it for them while you keep on inspecting…thehehehe…
According to our electrician here in florida the white reset was typical to the pop-o-matic breakers used before GFCI came to pass. He says from the 60’s and 70’s.
By the 80’s GFCI were improved and the button became red by standard.
He also says that it appears the original expoy has deteriorated and is allowing moisture to rust the connection points. He says continual over heating causes this.
By what standard…?..I see white, blue, yellow and so on as colors for the buttons on GFCI’s…some are even the color of the device itself on receptacles…There is no standard in color for GFCI’s that I am aware of.
On the overheating…if no signs of moisture within the enclosure I would venture to not believe the statement of rust as it pertains to THIS picture in question…but in Florida depending on where you live it could be possibly a salt issue and corrosion…just not sure but I dont think it is the case in this image shown.
The original posted is from Idaho I believe.
lol…the only problem I see is…
Attached Thumbnailshttp://www.nachi.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12396&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182049433
Paul, I see this all but every inspection I go on. Is there really a major problem with this??? I’ve see panel inspected with this situation and nothing said, so why should I state anything???
[quote=brepanshek]
lol…the only problem I see is…
Attached Thumbnails[
Brian,
Pleeeease don’t get me started on the double lugged neutrals!:mrgreen:](“http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12396&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1182049433”)
Yeah…Let’s not go there…PLEASE.
It’s very simple…408.21 specially states “each grounded conductor [neutral] shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that is not also used for another conductor”.
Double lugging neutrals is not be permitted, PERIOD.