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  #1  
Old 7/3/06, 3:06 PM
David C. Macy's Avatar
David C. Macy David C. Macy is offline
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Default Inquiring about Codes

I would like to ask about the following for a Ryan home built in 2004.
Some pertain to electrical but some are for other areas. This area propably gets the most views so I thought I would post here.

1) The front GFCI had a waterproof cover but the back just had the metal cover. What year was the bubble cover required?
2) The interior cover of the air conditioner disconnect box was missing. Is it require to have a interior cover? I think so as the wire and terminals can be contacted.
3) Is a gas water heater required to have a bonding wire when the home is done in CPVC supply. Also why are some heaters bonded with just the water line and some with gas.
4) There where no H clips installed at the sheathing and Ryan homes says they seal the house attic so the home owners can not access. I find this to be unusual and noted to inquire with the builder.(I used the picture That GB had in the roofing course)
5) The sump or sanitary was sealed in the basement. How do you change the pump or test the pump as the owner? (See picture)
6) When did they start requiring that the condenstae to the drain be selaed?
7) What is the correct distance for the gutters to slope to the downspout?
There was evidence of ponding & debris. Only sloped like a inch for about 20 feet. (See picture)
The owner had to tear off the exterior bath vent as birds where infestaing the ducts. Are the exterior vents supposed to have screens or gaurds.(See picture)

Any comments on the stair repairs? (See pictures)

Thanks for answering my questions.
Have a great holiday.



Dave
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  #2  
Old 7/3/06, 8:23 PM
Greg Fretwell Greg Fretwell is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

Even among inspectors/electricians you can get a fight started about bubble covers. If they had a snap cover, would simply note that "unattended" plugs should get a bubble cover.
The water heater should be bonded to the EGC of the igniter circuit. If it is a pilot light model with no electric connection it is OK without bonding on a PVC system.
Sealing the attic may be OK but there can't be any boxes up there with covers on them.
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  #3  
Old 7/3/06, 8:47 PM
dsmith1 dsmith1 is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

If you look carefully at the cover for the basin for the submersible sewage pump you will see screw or bolt heads that allow the cover to be taken off to service the pump inside.
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  #4  
Old 7/3/06, 9:06 PM
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Patrick Bolliger Patrick Bolliger is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

On the stairs,

Looks like they removed the original threads from the stringer...Note the "slots" where most likely where the original thread where inserted.. Now "glued" heavily with small pieces of 1 by stock to make up for large gap????..
Shims??

These guys found it easier to glue the snot out of every thing. Instead of completely replacing stringer it must have been cheaper to do this..

I question the strength of the threads and weight (live load ) capability.. Guess the only way you get to stop squeaks is by using PL 400 in large quantities...

Did you get a size idea on the threads??

1x10 common pine..
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  #5  
Old 7/4/06, 12:27 PM
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Paul W. Abernathy Paul W. Abernathy is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
I would like to ask about the following for a Ryan home built in 2004.
Some pertain to electrical but some are for other areas. This area propably gets the most views so I thought I would post here.

1) The front GFCI had a waterproof cover but the back just had the metal cover. What year was the bubble cover required?

Comment # 1 : This was given LIFE in the 2002 NEC, but as Greg stated it can be a good debate area for electricians and so on...usually the ones that are not up on the NEW NEC changes. The classification of these covers are " Weather Resistant Cover" and " Raintight Cover" which are different...the WRC is the standard one we have seen for years...the RC is the new bubble cover style.

If the WRC is not subject to beating rain or water runoff it does not have to be WP in areas only condidered damp like under roofed porches or similar areas not subject to the formentioned items. But keep in mind MOST exterior receptacles are on the side of the house and suject to it....

But as GREG stated.....we wont go into the Unatteneded and Attended aspects of this..... but their is the little thing called 406.8(B)(2) that throws confussion into the mix....I will again not go into THAT part...lol....but I am sure someone will...


2) The interior cover of the air conditioner disconnect box was missing. Is it require to have a interior cover? I think so as the wire and terminals can be contacted.

Comment 2: That Disconnect should be replaced in this condition.

3) Is a gas water heater required to have a bonding wire when the home is done in CPVC supply. Also why are some heaters bonded with just the water line and some with gas.

Comment 3: The NEC is enforced differently in many areas, the ACTUAL ruling is that all metal piping likely to become energized needs to be bonded..as Greg stated in items like the gas water heater it may have an electric ignitor or for example on a gas range cook top...has a 120V ignitor which the EGC can serve this bonding purpose......Do not confuse Bonding with Grounding...the connection to the Water Pipe is grounding......any other bonding conductors run to the interior gas pipe lines or additional plumbing lines if copper are the Bonding of metal pipes requirement.



Dave
Hope the RED comments assist you......WE can get way more detailed in EACH one if you wish....



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  #6  
Old 7/4/06, 2:45 PM
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Robert J. OConnor Robert J. OConnor is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
1) The front GFCI had a waterproof cover but the back just had the metal cover. What year was the bubble cover required?
The NEC was changed in 2002 to ensure all outdoor receptacles not under a roof have the special weatherproof bubble covers. The metal swing covers are only acceptable for outdoor receptacles under a roof, or other wet locations (not outdoors) with attended equipment. See diagrams below from www.mikeholt.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
2) The interior cover of the air conditioner disconnect box was missing. Is it require to have a interior cover? I think so as the wire and terminals can be contacted.
The interior shield is required. This allows the disconnect plug to be removed without being exposed to live wires. The shield can be replaced (if located/available) or the entire disconnect replaced (more likely).

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
3) Is a gas water heater required to have a bonding wire when the home is done in CPVC supply. Also why are some heaters bonded with just the water line and some with gas.
Water heaters don't need to be bonded, as they are not "likely to become energized". All metal piping (including gas piping) must be "bonded", and if power is supplied to the WH it must be "grounded" by a bare/green circuit wire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
4) There where no H clips installed at the sheathing and Ryan homes says they seal the house attic so the home owners can not access. I find this to be unusual and noted to inquire with the builder.(I used the picture That GB had in the roofing course)
Sheathing H-Clips are not always required ... it depends on the sheathing thickness and span. I would also note the inaccessibility of the attic as a concern.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
5) The sump or sanitary was sealed in the basement. How do you change the pump or test the pump as the owner? (See picture)
Call a plumber ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
6) When did they start requiring that the condenstae to the drain be selaed?
I assume ya mean AC condensate, and I'm not aware of any requirement for it to be sealed. But it must be clear when condensate starts flowing in a secondary line or a shutoff (float) switch can be used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmacy
7) What is the correct distance for the gutters to slope to the downspout? There was evidence of ponding & debris. Only sloped like a inch for about 20 feet. (See picture)
Should be sloped about 1" for every 15' to 20', so that sounds about right. Probably need the gutters, downspouts, and any buried piping/drywells cleaned out.

Hope that helps ...
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I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong ...
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  #7  
Old 7/4/06, 7:18 PM
Larry D. Kage Larry D. Kage is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

A strong and squeakresistant stair can be accomplished through the combination of routing, wedging and gluing…granted, that’s a sloppy job but the theory was attempted.

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  #8  
Old 7/4/06, 11:24 PM
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scosta scosta is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

I dont think they go through the trouble of routing and gluing in a Ryan home, they are generally a cheaper home. Also the risers appear to be Plywood, the grain looks like plywood, and isnt that a stamp?

Steve
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  #9  
Old 7/5/06, 8:59 AM
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Bruce M. Graham, III Bruce M. Graham, III is offline
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Default Re: Inquiring about Codes

Once saw Norm on this old house use the same tapered groves, wedges and glue. This is a stair system.
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