I’ve been doing quite a few “new-construction” inspections lately, and have been running into the same problem over and over. Needless to say, some of the builders aren’t happy with some of my “findings.”
CA has a relatively new energy code, built into its building codes (Title 24), which requires (among other things) that all incandescent light bulbs be placed on dimmer switches.
The problem is with the stairway lighting. How can the lighting “legally” be on a dimmer? When the dimmer is turned down, this effectively disables the opposite switch.
I have discovered this at least 4 times in the last month. Is there a “reasonable” solution to this?
I think the interpetation of the Title 24 laws need some common sense applied to them. I’m a Title 24 energy plan examiner and the laws can be confusing to the layman. For a good guide to new construction lighting, I use the guide supplied by the UC Davis Lighting Technology Center. Here is the link.
About fluorscent lights, they need some time to warm up to get the full light energy out of them. For lights that get switched on and off constantly, an incandescent light is better.
I just replaced single dimmer with a 3 way dimmer (Leviton) for my dining room. I didn’t know they had such a critter either. It can be safely and legally wired for single pole or 3 way. Cost me around $15. It has a rocker switch and a slide dimmer.
I think most of the resistance to CFLs is misplaced. Perhaps if you are talking about outside stairs in the mountains where it really gets cold I could see “warm up” being a problem but I have them all over my house and they start just fine down to the high 40s.
I was slow to jump on the CFL bandwagon but that is pretty much all I buy these days. A 100w equivilent bulb will certainly get you 70-80% within a second of turning on, even outside at 40f. That is better than the typical 60w builder grade luminaire you see on steps.