International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Electrical Inspections Contains discussions about electrical systems. This includes receptacles, panels, wiring, etc. |
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#31
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This has been a very interesting thread - filled with differing terminologies as well as some facts. When I step back and look at it from a distance, several thoughts come to mind (in the context of a Home Inspector).
a) If SureTest or other device seems to indicate a lower than 'normal' voltage at an outlet, as a HI we can't determine the reason (i.e. stabbed connections?) without diassembling the outlet. Isn't that outside the SOPs? b) How many outlets would you test to make sure you didn't risk missing the one that had the critical defect? c) When I think about all the things a HI has to test, review, and observe, this seems like an unusual level of detail. To test every system to this level would require a day or more per house. JMHO, of course. Frank P. Newman Emerald City Inspections, LLC Dublin, GA |
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#32
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Please Note:
rdawes is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
a. I don't really need to determine the reason. There is a problem that may or may not be serious. The electrician can figure that out. Just like if you report a light fixture as not working. The most likely reason is a burned out bulb but it could be socket, wiring, switch. I just report it does not function.
b. I test all accessible outlets. My state SOP states a representative sample. But it's not much more to check all that are accessible. c. Sticking the 3 light tester in a socket takes a second; using the Suretest takes 3 or 4 seconds. Not much additional time required. Using a Suretest is not required by any known SOP. Some of us do use it; most do not. Personal choice. |
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#33
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As a mechanical contractor, I have found a bucket load of burnt wire, most of which never tripped the breaker and the equipment was still running and in service.
The further down the circuit you can test, the more connections that get tested. Backstabbing is a big cause of heat and voltage drop. I am concerned about electronic equipment using low voltage. Most of my customers have large home offices. I don't do cartwheels over a >5% drop, but in cases like this, where you can't get 100 volts out of the plug, it's getting a bit ridiculous. Someone said something about a drill motor burning out before a fire starts? Well I guess that the low voltage CAN hurt stuff. I have also found very warm wires running throughout the house with the IR Camera that had large voltage drops. How much is too much? I'm not going to test the theory with any one's life to find out. I just report what I find. Quote:
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