International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Electrical Inspections Contains discussions about electrical systems. This includes receptacles, panels, wiring, etc. |
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#16
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Just a word to Mr. Whitt:
Just because something was installed according to code at the time of installation is not , in my opinion, justification for not making safety upgrades. GFCIs became required for a reason, not just because someone invented it and wanted to sell lots of em. I call out lots of things that are safety related that have nothing to do with code. BTW doing something to "code" is not bragging IMHO Just my $.02 Cheers Doug Cossar CMI, NHI Accurate Home Inspection Services Inc. Whitby Ontario www.accuratehomeinspections.ca 05021384 |
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#17
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Please Note:
Pierre Belarge is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Doug
I think what Mike is trying to explain is the legal aspects of what is code, and the differences of an electricain's responsibility and an HI's responsibility. There is definitely a difference between the two types of industries. We, in the electrical industry cannot force someone to install something if it is not code, even if it will be a safer installation. HIs on the otherhand can have a different impact on installations for safety, as the sale or financing of a large $ figure stems on your report, and some will not quible with a small installation fee for the difference of time and money involved in their sale/financing. |
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#18
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Quote:
Your quote shows the different levels and standards that home inspectors are held to (in some states, like mine, by law). We are reauired to call out problems based upon safety (according to CURRENT standards), not upon mere local codes. And if you document that a GFCIs were 'not required' (grandfathered) and some one gets seriously shocked, you can bet your fram that you do have liability and will get sued. Different jobs, different standards, different liability. And, just because is thing is 'not required by law' does not mean it is safe. Hope this helps; Will Decker, CMI ILL License # 450.0002240 Board Certified Master Inspector Decker Home Services, LLC Chicago and Northern Suburban Home Inspections Office: (847) 676-8393 Cell: (847) 609-2345 Home: (847) 673-2702 wjd@DeckerHomeServices.com www.DeckerHomeServices.com Learn, Educate, Serve and have fun doing it! |
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#19
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Please Note:
Mike Whitt is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Whoa, Whoa up Gentlemen,
Mr. Wilcox in the original post was asking why the electrician would make statements that what he had called out was wrong. In my reply I was sure to make this statement, Quote:
Remember gentlemen that in most cases the HI is working for the buyer and the electrician is working for the seller. Once each has made their report it is in the hands of the buyer and seller to hash out the issues. Both of us have done what we were hired to do. As a side note: when I am called out in such cases I always point that to replace the devices for GFCI protection would be the safe thing. Last edited by Mike Whitt; 7/8/07 at 10:01 AM.. |
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#20
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Please Note:
Marc D. Shunk is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
I would maintain that if this is a detached garage referenced in the original post, not seperating the neutrals and grounds can still be 100% legal and safe at this very day.
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#21
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Please Note:
cduphily is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Quote:
Honestly, I'm not surprised. Your a knowledgeable person and a damn good inspector. [/kissa*$] |
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#22
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Please Note:
cduphily is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
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#23
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1.) The subpanel ( remote distribution panel ) in the detached garage just may be legal and compliant IF their is no potential between the two structures...but we have talked about that before so I wont digress unless you want me to. ( been told I am too long winded ) 2.) It would be beyond your scope to try to determine the potential between these two structures unless it was obvious like a telephone line, switched light, concrete re-bar walkway, or similar connection between the two structures...then the 3 wire option is POOF......would need to be 4 conductors. 3.) As for the open ground......I guess it really depends on if the system even has a ground to begin with. If they used 3 prong plugs in the house and it is not protected by GFCI ahead of it then it is a problem...if the house is just old and has no grounding ( EGC-Bonding Conductor ) in place then an open ground really means nothing to the EC as it is still legal to have 2 wire receptacles in dwellings depending on the period. 4.) I would have "RECOMMENDED" GFCI's in those areas to safeguard life and limb so to speak but again it may not have been required at the time of construction....BUT most certainly as a safety aspect you should always recommend them...safety first....money second. 5.) AS for the double tapped circuit breaker.....the comment they made that it is done all the time is probably correct...does not make it right but his statement is correct in that it is done all the time....improperly done but still done...unless of course it is a Cutler Hammer CH or Square D QO and Homeline breaker which do allow double taps......but I highly doubt it... Remember just because an electrician says they do something all the time does not mean it is done RIGHT all the time...they just dont know any better in many cases....this does not make them a bad electrician...just one that is not up to date on code changes and so on...which is where education comes in...we all should strive to LEARN...everyday...... Edited: Thanks TOM......I never double tap anyway even if the breaker DID allow it....and yes we are GEEKS ! Paul W. Abernathy Last edited by pabernathy; 7/11/07 at 5:15 PM.. |
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#24
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A double tap breaker is with two wires in direct contact with each other, CH and S-D have separate sections on the pressure plate to allow for copper wires, so it's not technically double tapping.
BTW, good post Paul however you omitted HomeLine allows for two copper conductors too. tom |
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#25
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make it 4 Tom.
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#26
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I have never heard of an inspector being sued for recommending and upgrade, but I have heard of them being sued for failing to recommend one.
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#27
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Homeline's I am familiar with do not allow double taped breakers, I have one sitting in front of me as we speak and makes no reference to allowing multiple conductors to the termination point. Where as the QO model I also have in front of me does make reference to it...thus listed for it.
CH's breaker allows for it via a wedge design....which clamps down and pushes each conductor to a beveled side...while the QO version uses individual holding points on each side of the termination screw. Paul W. Abernathy |
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#28
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Verbiage: (image of single conductor attached) with "#14 - #8 AWG Al/Cu (image of two conductors attached) with "#14 - #10 AWG Cu Then look at the mounting point, it has to spaces for wires. tom P.S. What freaking electrical geeks have breakers laying around, my 5 year old wants to be a plumber - electrician. |
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#29
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lol.....mine does not say that on my homeline I have...just the QO version. Maybe I have an old one.....my son puts it under his pillow wanting to be like DAD.....( NOT...just kidding...he wants to be an rocket scientist instead )
Picture fella...Picture...I need a picture...lol Oh wait.......you are right.....2006 and later homelines do have the ability for (2) conductors.....I have the one sitting here I seminar with...an older model I believe 2004 or something.....good to see Square D is moving their features DOWN to the lower line products now days.... Paul W. Abernathy Last edited by pabernathy; 7/11/07 at 5:12 PM.. |
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#30
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OK...now when is Eaton going to move that down to their BR series now..I will have to ask them as you KNOW they can't be left behind...lol
Paul W. Abernathy |
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