Heat pump thermostat

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

Originally Posted by bwiley

Any of you using an amp clamp to make sure that the heat strips are working?

I use an infrared thermometer at the register. I note the temp. using the fan only for about 15 minutes then turn on the emergency heat. That's a simple way to do it.

[Blaine Wiley]

Originally Posted by jfunderburk

I use an infrared thermometer at the register. I note the temp. using the fan only for about 15 minutes then turn on the emergency heat. That's a simple way to do it.

What do you consider an acceptable temp? How does that tell you if all three strips are working, or only two of three? Not critiquing, just asking.

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

If the temperature doesn't increase from the fan-only temp, it's a safe assumption that the strips are not working. They usually heat the air to to upper 80s or even into the 100s after no more than 15 minutes or so.

Here's one yesterday that it's pretty safe to say the heat strips were not working.

[Blaine Wiley]

I agree. I've found 15 kw units with only 10kw working though by simply seeing if all three are drawing the appropriate amperage. The thermometer would tell me that I had heat, but not that it was working properly. I'm just sayin...

[Bruce A. King]

Blaine, That is a good thing to check but not many inspectors go to that technical level on heat strips and current draw.

Do you also remove the lower cover on electric water heaters and verify the lower element draws current when the top element has finished heating? What about current level on hvac compressors?

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

"A home inspection is not technically exhaustive." I've heard that somewhere before.

[Mathew Hawley]

We amp probe the AC unit to make sure the amperage is 60 - 90 of the data plate's RLA listing. We also probe the heat strips as well.

From time time I will find an AC unit that is operating above the RLA on the data plate. There is a lot of good info on the data plate. Many times units are on over-sized breakers as well.

Also, if an AC unit is on a 30-amp breaker and its on a #12 wire thats fine as long as the minimuim ampacity on the data plate is below 20. I learned that the hard way several years ago, when I called out an undersized wire on an AC unit.

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

Originally Posted by bking

I have my strips programmed to stay off unless very cold outside, they still come on as needed during the defrost cycle.

Bruce, did you know that without a heat pump thermostat the heat strips will not come on at all except during the defrost cycle?

For those of you who live in areas where heat pumps are common and where the heat strips are needed, the lack of a heat pump thermostat is a defect. I've verified that with my local HVAC company owner.

[Brian E. Kelly]

Originally Posted by jfunderburk

Bruce, did you know that without a heat pump thermostat the heat strips will not come on at all except during the defrost cycle?

For those of you who live in areas where heat pumps are common and where the heat strips are needed, the lack of a heat pump thermostat is a defect. I've verified that with my local HVAC company owner.

I would agree with that Joe. Phoenix we rarely see heat strips anymore. Mostly just on the older units.

[Henry Martinez]

sure it lacks emergency heat for secondary heat, auxilary heat is the heat pump.

but doesnt mean it wont work... how do you know what terminals are there unless you take off the stat and look to see if thats the case?
Back in the day, ht pumps were wired differently and many techs still know how to achieve this and make it work with the non uniform t-stats and different outdoor units as well.
There is protection in the outdoor unit as well, things might not be wired the way they appear.
thats where it takes a trained eye.