Pricing for Radon Testing

[mnahrgang]

Originally Posted by dmacy

David

Since you are in my same area I thought I would post.

This is from the EPA site:
EPA Recommends the Following Testing Steps:
Step 1. Take a short-term test. If your result is 4 pCi/L or higher take a follow-up test (Step 2) to be sure.



Step 2. Follow up with either a long-term test or a second short-term test:

• For a better understanding of your year-round average radon level, take a long-term test.
• If you need results quickly, take a second short-term test.

The higher your initial short-term test result, the more certain you can be that you should take a short-term rather than a long-term follow up test. If your first short-term test result is more than twice EPA's 4 pCi/L action level, you should take a second short-term test immediately.
Step 3. If you followed up with a long-term test: Fix your home if your long-term test result is 4 pCi/L or more. If you followed up with a second short-term test: The higher your short-term results, the more certain you can be that you should fix your home. Consider fixing your home if the average of your first and second test is 4 pCi/L or higher.

In regards to pricing.

My price depends on the location. If it is within 10 miles of my home I charge less.

If you use a CRM like radalink they charge a lease and per test fee. The nice features of Radalink is they do all the QA/QP & Calibrations and all the paperwork involved. There monitors read temperature, pressure and humidity and they provide free CEU recertification every 2 years.

If you have any questions I would be glad to talk to you on the phone or email.

David,
This is the protocol if the test is being done for a home owner. The protocol for a real estate transaction is slightly different. One 48 hr (or greater) with a CRM, or two passive tests run at the same time using the average of the two. Mitigate if results are 4.0 or greater.
Mark

[David C. Macy]

Mark

Thanks for pointing that out.

What do you think of this comment. This would be the response of an agent.

Mr & Mrs Seller. We would like for you to get an estimate for the cost of installing a mitigation system in the home. We, (the buyers) will pay for the cost of a long term test, and continue the closing as scheduled. At closing the cost of the mitigation system will be placed from your home proceeds into an escrow account. Upon completion of the long term test, the escrow funds will either be used towards the purchase of a mitigation system (should the long term results be at or above 4.0), or they will be returned to you if they are 3.9 or lower.


I had this in my data base and just thought I would post. I can not see to many people following the protocol for a 90 day test.

[mnahrgang]

Originally Posted by dmacy

Mark

Thanks for pointing that out.

What do you think of this comment. This would be the response of an agent.

Mr & Mrs Seller. We would like for you to get an estimate for the cost of installing a mitigation system in the home. We, (the buyers) will pay for the cost of a long term test, and continue the closing as scheduled. At closing the cost of the mitigation system will be placed from your home proceeds into an escrow account. Upon completion of the long term test, the escrow funds will either be used towards the purchase of a mitigation system (should the long term results be at or above 4.0), or they will be returned to you if they are 3.9 or lower.


I had this in my data base and just thought I would post. I can not see to many people following the protocol for a 90 day test.

I would change it to this...

Mr & Mrs Seller. Due to the fact that closed house conditions either were not maintained, or could not be maintained during our short term test. [or Due to the fact that the radon test was invalidated by the technician for the following reasons...] We request that $XXXX (The estimated cost of a radon mitigation system) be placed from your home proceeds into an escrow account. Upon completion of a valid short term test, performed to EPA short term testing protocols, the escrow funds will either be used towards the purchase of a mitigation system (should the short term results be at or above 4.0), or they will be returned to you if they are 3.9 or lower.

You could do the long term test thing if you thought it was necessary but I wouldn't even go there myself. I would also recommend the buyers get the estimate and request the money, not the sellers. And only do this if there was a suspicion of tampering or of closed house conditions not being maintained.

Of course this is based on my own personal bias...

Even though the EPA recommends doing long term tests, I don't see the logic of that. If a short term test shows levels at or above 4.0, a prudent person is going to fix the home. If its my home, and my family is living in it, then even if a long term test shows a little lower level then so what? There is no such thing as a safe level, so really I'm going to install a system if it's 2.0 or greater.

I want my clients to be around so I can inspect their next house too.

[David L. Christopher]

I just wanted to thank everyone for their input so far. Honestly, some of the info is over my head as of yet as I have not taken the classes. They are scheduled for later this month in Columbus. Do most inspectors start out with a CRM or is this usually added as the need arises and/or the business allows for it(funding)?

[David C. Macy]

Originally Posted by dchristopher

I just wanted to thank everyone for their input so far. Honestly, some of the info is over my head as of yet as I have not taken the classes. They are scheduled for later this month in Columbus. Do most inspectors start out with a CRM or is this usually added as the need arises and/or the business allows for it(funding)?

Starting out with a CRM is a good way to go. And with Radalinks lease and per test fee the cost is not to bad.

You can also purchase some Sun Nuclear monitors on Ebay or from other inspectors for 300-500 dollars each.

Good luck on the class. Is Dallas Jones the presenter for the course?

[Bill J. Kandravi, Jr.]

I am located in Cape Coral, Florida (Southwest Florida) I want to be competitive for Home Inspections and Mold Inspections. Could anyone give me there opinion and some advice as to compettive rates in my area. Thank you.

[David L. Christopher]

Originally Posted by dmacy

Starting out with a CRM is a good way to go. And with Radalinks lease and per test fee the cost is not to bad.

You can also purchase some Sun Nuclear monitors on Ebay or from other inspectors for 300-500 dollars each.

Good luck on the class. Is Dallas Jones the presenter for the course?

David,

I'm not sure who is teaching the class. I am taking the classes at Hondros and all I know is that someone from Radalink is teaching it.

[Dan Bowers, CMI]

In our area, most inspectors start with radon cannisters / Then if it appears it will be a viable part of their business move into Electronics.

[Douglas Wall]

I am located in Cape Coral, Florida (Southwest Florida) I want to be competitive for Home Inspections and Mold Inspections. Could anyone give me there opinion and some advice as to compettive rates in my area. Thank you.

We perform radon and mold for dozens of home inspectors in Collier and Lee Counties; some do their own mold, at least until July 1, 2010.
Our prices are here: http://www.radonmoldhelp.com/id59.html

We will be opening another office in the middle of the state in a couple of months. We have hired two new people this month.
Radon & Mold Professionals
Office: (239) 498-4619 Toll free: (800) 881-3837 www.radonmoldhelp.com
www.naplesmoldinspection.com
Radon Testing - Mold Inspections - Mold Testing - Allergen Screening
Volatile Organic Compounds Testing - Odorous/Chinese Drywall Assessment

Professional Liability / $1,000,000 General Liability and Errors & Omissions Insurance
(Covers preliminary mold assessments and also "Chinese" Drywall Inspections)

Microbial Consulting Coverage: $1,000,000 / $1,000,000 limit / claims made
(Covers Post mold remediation inspections/testing, CLEARANCE)

[Erby Crofutt]

Bill: I see that was your first post. Juist an FYI. Forum etiquette says start your own thread if you're going to change the subject. This one is on radon, not mold and home inspections.

On the radon issue:

Radalink is a good way to start. They cover your *** with the paperwork. If you want to start doing that part yourself, it's easy enough to cancel and go another direction.

Perhaps y'all should read this part of the EPA website so you can better advise your clients on that 4.0 thingy.

=====
Report Attached
The Radon Measurement test showed:
3.0 average level
6.5 highest level
1.2 lowest level
(all measurements in pico curies per liter of air)

The EPA's website at: http://www.epa.gov/radon/healthrisks.html , states:
"The average radon concentration in the indoor air of America's homes is about 1.3 pCi/L. It is upon this level that EPA based its estimate of 20,000 radon-related lung cancers a year upon. It is for this simple reason that EPA recommends that Americans consider fixing their homes when the radon level is between 2 pCi/L and 4 pCi/L. "

"Unfortunately, many Americans presume that because the action level is 4 pCi/L, a radon level of less than 4 pCi/L is "safe". This perception is altogether too common in the residential real estate market. In managing any risk, we should be concerned with the greatest risk. For most Americans, their greatest exposure to radon is in their homes; especially in rooms that are below grade (e.g., basements), rooms that are in contact with the ground and those rooms immediately above them."

The EPA's " Home Buyer's & Seller's Guide to Radon" states
"Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk and, in many cases, may be reduced."

"Short-term tests can be used to decide whether to reduce the home's high radon levels. However, the closer the short-term testing result is to 4 pCi/L, the less certainty there is about whether the home's year-round average is above or below that level. Keep in mind that radon levels below 4 pCi/L still pose some risk and that radon levels can be reduced to 2 pCi/L or below in most homes."

Use your own best judgment and desire for safe living. Only you can choose what level of risk to expose your family too.
===


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[Douglas Wall]

Radalink is a good way to start. They cover your *** with the paperwork. If you want to start doing that part yourself, it's easy enough to cancel and go another direction.

Used Radalink in 2000, YUK YUK YUK
After 13,000 radon tests and years in the business, best thing I ever did was deal with Air Chek and Femto Tech (in Ohio).
We have have seen it all, you can keep Radalink, we do send people to their training classes now and then. They had about the same number of clients in Florida when I started as they do today. ???????

Radon .... Talk to Shawn Price at Air Chek www.radon.com

[David L. Christopher]

Radon .... Talk to Shawn Price at Air Chek www.radon.com[/quote]

Douglas,

Thanks for the link. I checked the site out and will give them a solid look.

Dave

[dbelmont]

Originally Posted by dchristopher

Bill,

I agree with the hassle part. I typically try to keep my radial drive to 50 miles from where I live. I am finding that I am much more willing to drive further as the economic conditions have dictated that you go where the work is! I recently inspected a house that was about 45 miles away and if I were doing the radon test, I would have had to go back the next day to place the collection devices as the basement windows were open and an industrial fan was blowing air out when I arrived for the GHI. It was later determined that the radon result was over 19 picocuries. Long story short, I would have had to make 3 trips to this house.

From my understanding, when a result higher than 4 pc/L is found, another test is required for verification? If so, do you normally charge full price for this or is it done at a reduced rate?

Required depends on the state. But I'd encourage you to charge full price or more for a retest. I actually go up $25 (from 150) if it's a retest. My expenses exist and don't go down with 2 more drives. I find most folks (if they are happy with your initial work) won't bat an eye at the charge.