Attic Plumbing

[John Evans]

I have never seen water supply lines routed through an attic. Looking for opinions from any inspector who has encountered attic plumbing. Keep in mind the cold environment for the Maryland area where this home is located. Yes, there is a heating element for the cold water side and as you can see foam insulation. Of course, the heating element could fail.

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

Attic-routed plumbing is very common. . .

[John Evans]

Even in cold weather climates?

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by jevans

Even in cold weather climates?

No, that Pope fella forgets he lives in California.

That metal braided heat cable has me wondering if that is a legitimate install for that product.

Any tags indicating who the manufacture is?

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

Originally Posted by mlarson

No, that Pope fella forgets he lives in California.

True dat.

How do you repipe in colder climates (assuming no basement and no crawl space)?

[John Evans]

Michael,
Did not notice a tag, the thermostat is Honeywell. I think the plumbing may have been re-routed from the original slab location. You can see the slab with abandoned copper & poly lines in the photos posted in the Structural Section yesterday. It all seems to be tied together.

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by jpope

True dat.

How do you repipe in colder climates (assuming no basement and no crwal space)?

In the attic but below the layer of insulation and no pipe insulation.
The insulation traps the heat from below and warms the pipe.

[John Evans]

Why no pipe insulation?

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by jevans

Why no pipe insulation?

It is not needed and you want the pipe exposed to the warmest temp just above the interior ceiling materials.

Even if you have to run the pipe perpendicular to the joists or truss bottom chord, all you have to do is have the insulation go up and over the pipe with no insulation below it.

Of course this is problematic with any blown in insulation systems and would require a open sided half box above the pipe. You need to trap the warm from below for it to work.

[John Evans]

Thanks for the information. I spoke with a local retired inspector who was in the business for 21 years, and he does not recall ever seeing water supplies in an attic. But, there may have been occasions when the plumbing was concealed below the insulation as you suggested.

[Marc D. Shunk]

A prudent man might point out that there is no freeze alarm or any other warning device that would warn of heat tape failure. Heat tapes do have a lifespan, but it's unclear to me what that might be. I replace them from time to time, typically under mobile homes, but normally only following a pipe failure. There are commercially available freeze alarms with a probe you stick under the Armaflex. An extended power failure would also put the pipework at risk for freezing if the home was not equipped with a generator or provisions to connect a portable generator. This might be something worthwhile to point out.

[John Evans]

Update. According to the local plumbing inspector, this installation is not allowed. As mentioned in this thread, the county may possibly allow attic plumbing if placed above the ceiling and covered with adequate insulation.

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

Pretty common to have water heaters in attics here. This is what I say, depending on whether or not insulation is provided.

"The visible portions of the water pipes in the attic are insulated and are in acceptable condition, but should be monitored because of their location. Leaks from pipes that pass through an attic can be soaked up by insulation, and are difficult to detect until significant damage is evident elsewhere."

"Water pipes in the attic are un-insulated and insulation is recommended to prevent freezing. The pipes should be monitored because of their location. Leaks from pipes that pass through an attic can be soaked up by insulation, and are difficult to detect until significant damage is evident elsewhere. Note: combustible insulation should not be closer than 1" to a water heater flue."

[sfigert]

Did you note that where the pipes are fastened to the rafter legs that the insulation has been cut and removed? This may allow the cold climate to transfer to the pipes, and also may make the heat tape work more. The insulation should have been left on in these areas and large straps around insulation & pipes. I generally use conduit clamps sized to fit the O.D. if the insulation myself. Also the I.D. of the insulation should be sized to fit the pipe plus the heat tape. It looks as if some of the insulation seams were slightly open. They need to be closed tight.
Looks like Frost-Tek type heat tape. This is about the best I have found to use.

[John Evans]

There are open insulation joints from apparent shrinkage or movement. The joints were taped together at one time, the tape residue is visible.
Mounting the copper so high above the ceiling does not appear to be correct, and is not according to our local county inspector.