Dielectric Union?

[Michael Larson]

Beat the dead horse time.

See the top fitting from this LINK

They are ALL dielectric fittings.

For those who have not seen the effects of galvanic action on plumbing SEE THIS

[Jason A. Sieg, CMI]

The problem I see with the nipple style dielectric fitting is...

Once the nipple is installed we have No Visible way of knowing that the plastic (or whatever you want to call it) material has not been damaged, removed or tampered with in any way. With a traditional style dielectric union we are able to visually see the plastic protective barrier between the two dissimilar metals.

If I Can Not See Something, I Can Not Say That It Is There.

I have seen people using pliers trying to remove the plastic piece because they thought it was a cap used to provent something from falling in to the tank during shipping.

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by jsieg

The problem I see with the nipple style dielectric fitting is...

Once the nipple is installed we have No Visible way of knowing that the plastic (or whatever you want to call it) material has not been damaged, removed or tampered with in any way. With a traditional style dielectric union we are able to visually see the plastic protective barrier between the two dissimilar metals.

No disagreement with what you said.
You can't tell on the ones without a label or without the groove that the heat trap ones have.

[relliott]

Wow... I guess nobody knows or I am chopped liver.

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by mlarson

Please explain as I used to believe that myself.

Having a plastic line does not always mean having a plastic seperation on the nipple. I see teflon, but know proof there is a plastic divider between the copper and galvanized.

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

Having a plastic line does not always mean having a plastic seperation on the nipple. I see teflon, but know proof there is a plastic divider between the copper and galvanized.

Huh? Go back to Jo's originaly post.
Would you report a dielectric fitting as being absent in this installation?

If so, based on what?

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by relliott

Makes sense to me.How often do you guys notice these heat traps?
Also how much energy do they actualy save.?

Don't have stats. Bob but Bradford Whites come with them preintalled.
As far as energy savings, I don't know. But it does't make sense to heat the water outside of the water heater so there must be some cost savings.

[relliott]

Sometimes people prefer instant on over savings,just as they buy Hummers while gas prices continue to rise,so a recirculation pump may be a better investment.
Off subject I know ,but just a thought.

[Michael Larson]

Yup,

I will be installing one in soon myself.

Anyone have experience with the passive(non-motorized) type?

[relliott]

Mike let us know how it goes and keep us updated.
Wish I could help.

[Michael Larson]

Here is what I am refering to . I would just like to hear from someone who has used these.
I have two long runs is opposite directions from the water heater.

JustRight link

[Jason A. Sieg, CMI]

Originally Posted by mlarson

Here is what I am refering to . I would just like to hear from someone who has used these.
I have two long runs is opposite directions from the water heater.

JustRight link

If your looking for Instant Hot Water Circulating Pump Systems, I suggest this system!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.grundfos.com/web/HomeUs.n...ag/PAVA-56TMVA

It is less expensive then most other systems when you add the cost/time for installation and is expandable.

• YOU DO NOT run a return water line.
• If you have a faucet on an exterior wall and worry about pipes freezing this system can eliminate that worry.
• Quick to install, connect pump to the Hot Water out line at the Water Heater (Needs a 110v receptacle) & Install the automatic bypass valve under the sink (Use 4 braided water supply hoses).
• Easy to expand... Buy additional bypass valves and braided water supply hoses. (costs around $50 - $75.00)

I installed one for a customer and saved them over $200 in materials alone. It also saved on labor! It took longer waiting for the water to drain out of the pipes then it did to install the entire system.

[Michael Larson]

Thanks Jason.
I have considered that system but because I have 2 runs in opposite directions I would have to have two of that type.

I have a long rambler and the water heater is right in the middle. The master bath is on one end and the kitchen is on the other with another bathroom adjacent.

I should be better off with a 2 loop system IMHO

[Jason A. Sieg, CMI]

Originally Posted by mlarson

Thanks Jason.
I have considered that system but because I have 2 runs in opposite directions I would have to have two of that type.

I have a long rambler and the water heater is right in the middle. The master bath is on one end and the kitchen is on the other with another bathroom adjacent.

I should be better off with a 2 loop system IMHO

You would only need one!!!

• Only one pump with bypass valve
• one additional bypass valve

Why would you want to run all the extra plumbing?

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by jsieg

You would only need one!!!

• Only one pump with bypass valve
• one additional bypass valve

Why would you want to run all the extra plumbing?

Thanks. You are correct sir.
That may be the way to go as I have very limited access due to finised ceilings accept in the mechanicl room.