International Association of Certified Home Inspectors|
#1
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What is the device and its purpose that is attached in the pump crock. It introduces fresh water and was unsure of purpose & function.
The original pump operated when tested and the float operated for the other device when tested. My guess it is to add clear water to keep the pump clean. There also is a accesable cap at the device. What is the device called & any information would be helpful. Thanks Dave Last edited by dmacy; 11/28/08 at 4:51 PM.. |
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#2
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Hi to all,
David, I have never seen this set up, but I am wondering if it is a primer for the sump pump and maintains a constant water level so that the pump does not dry-start Regards Gerry Virtue is more to be feared than vice, because its excesses are not subject to the regulation of conscience. Adam Smith (1723-1790) Commercial property Inspection Tampa, Orlando, Sarasota, Jacksonville, Ft Launderdale, Miami, Florida. NACHI cell 484-429-5466 NACHI02121106
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#3
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Please Note:
rcooke is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
If this is on town water it could be a water powered sump pump .
I have one looks a little different works very well . Not quite as fast as the electric one but does a great job . Very low cost under $75:00 US money. Power failure and away it goes . I do believe there should be back flow preventer in the line I have one. Cost much less then 12 volt back up and no maintance . Roy sr |
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#4
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Please Note:
cceccarelli is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
It's a water pressure powered back-up sump pump. Is uses water flow to suck out the water from the sump in case of a power outage or main sump failure.
Be on the look out for potential cross contamination concerns because of the water line being used to power the pump. |
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#5
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Looks like easy access for the, possibility of radon gas to enter
http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/physic.html#Character 2nd para "radon gas can enter a home from the soil through cracks in concrete floors and walls, floor drains, sump pumps, construction joints, and tiny cracks or pores in hollow-block walls" How radon enters your house- a) cracks in concrete slabs b) spaces between brick veneer walls that rest on uncapped hollow brick foundation c) pores or cracks in concrete blocks d) floor-wall joints e) exposed soil, as in a sump f) weeping drain tile, if drained to open sump g) mortar joints h) loose fitting pipe penetrations i) open tops of block walls j) building materials, such as some rocks k) water (from some wells) these INSIDE companies who love to install inside drain tile and baseboard systems w/sump pumps, 1) they drill HOLES in hollow-block walls 2) they often leave the bottom 6" or so of any crack in wall.....OPEN 3) they often leave the 'cold joint' OPEN 4) some install sump pumps with no cover or cheap cover AND....they do NOT seal many, if any of the items listed above on the OUTSIDE. |
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#6
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Please Note:
tnoisaw is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
This looks like a backup sump pump. Usually the backup is on a battery and is low power. Inbetween the two fercos is a check valve to prevent water from the backup from going back into the pit. These are common in areas with high water tables.
Tony |
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