There is a supply line ran off of the main line to the washer in the laundry room to a laundry sink. The plumber originally forgot to install the line for the sink. Does this look proper? Wanted to make sure before my client puts up drywall.
It’s just a Tee in the line. Would you have felt any different if the Tee was in the crawl space? No issue. Make sure the lines are protected with nail plates.
I would want to see 1/2" line branching out from a 3/4" line. Looks like from the photo that is not the case.
The new stub-out has to be braced or supported.
Dom.
I agree, especially the cold (white) line.
Why? My 1/2 in PEX line puts out 7.5 gpm at an exterior faucet. The laundry hook up only fills as fast as the washer allows and the sink is usually less than 2 gpm. Plenty of water for both in a 1/2 inch line.
I agree, and would like to note that the drain for the sink should exit the wall at 90 degrees in lieu of 45 degrees as the picture shows near the hot water line. 
Here is a good site for more info on all sorts of plastic pipe:
Plastic Pipe and Fittings Association (PPFA)
http://www.ppfahome.org/
http://www.ppfahome.org/faq.aspx (click links across the top)
Pipe support brackets would also be in order in the pic.
This was just my opinion and it will be fine nothing really wrong just sloppy work (or unfinished) but that’s seems pretty common or just no pride to worried about $$. It was also based on what I have seen and also taught working with plumbers and I know its not all ways done this way, but like I said in my original post I would like to see does not mean it needs to be. Any way it may be merit less to you but I would not change it either but like you and Marcel posted nail plates, support and I would change the drain to stub out at a 90, just a little more professional.
By the way in my house its 3/4 with 1/2 branching out to each unit and when you have 6 people in the home and your taking a shower in the 2nd floor bath and water gets turned on 18 different times along with the commodes getting flushed, its really nice not to know it every time.
Ken, Don’t get me wrong. When I replaced the galvanized in my son’s house last year, I went with 3/4 Wirsbo PEX through the whole basement with 1/2 risers coming up to each valve. But in this instance, it is a sink and washing machine. Highly unlikely to make a difference in flow that would matter.
Pretty sloppy work for sure. The plumber was probably trying to save a trip to the crawl space. And that is why we get hired… :mrgreen:
No worries just explained why I thought that. Having 2 on 1/2" is okay but I would much like to see like you just said for you son and when you have 3/4" coming into a home most commonly it just makes sense to do it that way as figuring fixture units and using an arbitrary unit for sizing the pipe as in most designs is that all fixtures will not be used at the same time (right what ever). So I like to see 1/2" to each off 3/4". Seeing the photos make me wonder what everything else looks like:roll:. I like having a good discussion and I hope someone can learn from them as I have :D:D Have a Great Weekend!!!
Had a mountain cabin last week. The hot water line leaving the water heater was reduced to 3/8 copper tubing… for the whole house. Now granted there was only a shower, sink and kitchen sink but 3/8 was a wee bit too small. I guess for a seasonal cabin, it makes for “roughin it”. 
That would be like the sun shower at hunt-en camp if someone turned the water on:(
I see that a lot in older homes, a dedicated hot 3/8" line to the kitchen sink only. I know its against code but I never saw a water pressure or flow rate problem.
The cold water line to the laundry sink needs support blocking. The 45 drain is ok for plumbing, but difficult for the drywaller. 1/2" for two supply outlets is just fine. Just my one cent.
Devereaux …
As a licensed 1 & 2 family contractor and code inspector we usually have 3-5 “new construction” monitorings going on at any one time during the year where we’re typically gonna do 4-6 stage inspections on the house. AND on this kind of inspection we get picky. Its BRAND spanking new and sloppy gets written up and recommended to be modified or changed.
If this was 30 years old and visible, I’d just say sloppy and keep moving … NOT on new construction.