Water Pressure

[John Allingham]

[quote=jfunderburk;517509]David, the first 2 years I was in business, I never tested pressure either unless I suspected a problem. I now test every home and about 40% of them are either too high or too low in pressure. Most of those cases are excessive pressure.

quote]

First question, what do you consider an acceptable pressure range.
Secondly, water percentage of homes on city water do you find outside of that range.

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

Above 80 psi is too high. Probably 25% of the homes I inspect have excessive pressure, and in my area the street pressure is usually well over 120 psi - I've seen it as high as 160 psi.

Anything less than 15 psi requires a pump or other means to increase pressure.

[Sam B. Benson]

In my area, most hose bib's are part of the homes potable water system. If a regulator is installed its at the interior main water shut off valve with the supply drops branching off of it to water closets, kitchen, hose bibs, etc.

[Jeffrey R. Pope]

Many residences out here have "sub meters" (a secondary water meter) for their irrigation systems. Water used for irrigation is billed at a lower rate because they do not include a "sewer" charge.

[Brian E. Kelly]

Originally Posted by jpope

Above 80 psi is too high. Probably 25% of the homes I inspect have excessive pressure, and in my area the street pressure is usually well over 120 psi - I've seen it as high as 160 psi.

Anything less than 15 psi requires a pump or other means to increase pressure.

I might see about 5% to 10% here with high pressure. You pretty much know which neighborhoods they are after a while. Always the homes in the foothills where the water tanks are higher than the houses.

[David E. Helm]

I check pressure at hose bibbs after verifying that they are part of the house system (easy to do). If they are not I look for another place to check pressure.

[Terence Lang]

Originally Posted by dhelm

I check pressure at hose bibbs after verifying that they are part of the house system (easy to do).

How do you verify that they are part of the house system?

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

How could it not be part of the house system?

Consider this: a faucet supply pipe springs a leak, due to excessive pressure on the fittings, into the crawl space for 2 years before anyone discovers it. Do you think that might negatively affect the home?

[David E. Helm]

Originally Posted by tlang

How do you verify that they are part of the house system?

Look at the pipe feeding the hose bibb. If it leaves the house before the PRV it is not part of the house system.

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

Originally Posted by dhelm

Look at the pipe feeding the hose bibb. If it leaves the house before the PRV it is not part of the house system.

If that section blows a leak due to 150 psi pressure, is that a problem?

[David E. Helm]

Of course

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

Originally Posted by dhelm

Of course

My point exactly...what difference does it make whether it's part of the "house system"? If it's more likely to be unregulated (and thus higher) there, shouldn't that be where it gets tested?

[Wayne B. Wilson]

I test it at the hose bib outside also never seen one around here that is separated. Oh i guess it is because we just getting inside toilets and water . ( kidding) or maybe not.
I had one last week drain pipe went to a ditch .

[Jeffrey R. Wicklander]

I test functional as wellas actual. In the master, I'll run the sink faucet(s), turn on the tub and flush the toilet. I'll also throw a guage onto the laundry tub faucet, since they are usually threaded.

Jeff

[Chuck Evans]

Originally Posted by jwicklander

I test functional as wellas actual. In the master, I'll run the sink faucet(s), turn on the tub and flush the toilet. I'll also throw a guage onto the laundry tub faucet, since they are usually threaded.

Jeff

I hope you call it out as improper and a possible source of a cross connect if they are threaded for a hose