Are roof rafter notches allowed

[Ron Chorey II]

There were notches in one rafter, which was on a portion of the home that was an exterior wall. They were about every 2 feet or so. Are notches in rafters allowed? I do not think they are according to the code book but am not entirely sure.

[Michael W. Gault]

Notching on those trusses would not be allowed without written exceptions and specific instruction (maintained on site) from the AOR (or EOR) who designed the cuts into them...

[bsumpter]

IRC 802.10.4 and UBC 2320.1 calls out no field modification except with engineer approval.

I am concerned that the depth appears at approximately 50% of the chord.I would be additionally concerned if the notch were on the tension side of the chord instead of the compression. If there are no markings or approval notes on-site, I personally would call it out.

[Michael Larson]

Originally Posted by bsumpter

IRC 802.10.4 and UBC 2320.1 calls out no field modification except with engineer approval.

I am concerned that the depth appears at approximately 50% of the chord.I would be additionally concerned if the notch were on the tension side of the chord instead of the compression. If there are no markings or approval notes on-site, I personally would call it out.

Does this also apply to gable end trusses?
They are not built the same way and do not serve the same purpose and field trusses.

I'm more curious as to the contruction of the overhang on the other side of the end truss.

[bsumpter]

Usually the last truss is made shorter ("dropped" 3 1/2) so the lookout blocks can span from the last tall truss over the top of the shorter end truss and support the fly rafter that forms the projected rake.

[Greg Veal]

I'd say "no" to cutting the trusses, any way shape or form, without the written approval from the Truss Manuf.
Look at the cuts, the truss seems to be notched approx. 50% and ragged at that. Note the lower (left) notch of the truss.
I'd write up as a structual change to the truss, and recommend further review.

[Carla Horne]

Hi Ron,

That appears to be the gable end wall, if it is there is no load
there to speak of and I would not write this up.

CJ

[Bruce Thompson]

Originally Posted by gveal

I'd say "no" to cutting the trusses, any way shape or form, without the written approval from the Truss Manuf.
Look at the cuts, the truss seems to be notched approx. 50% and ragged at that. Note the lower (left) notch of the truss.
I'd write up as a structual change to the truss, and recommend further review.

I agree with with Greg and recommend further review. Down here in TX, I've seen the last truss (as in the picture) doubled to reinforce a gable end.

Trusses, when exposed to fires, are dangerous enough without having them compromised by cutting.

My .02 cents
Bruce

[Robert J. OConnor]

I always recommend writing up any field modifications or cuts to trusses, unless there is documentation stating otherwise (rarely on-site).

JMO

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

Always call out any modifications to trusses. They are not to be field-altered without engineer-approved designs which have to be inspected by a building official after changes are made.

You assume liability if you leave it out.

"Trusses with visible field alterations were visible in the roof framing. Altering of trusses in the field requires engineer-approved designs which must be inspected and approved by a building official after changes are made. You should ask the sellers to provide documents showing that alterations to the trusses were inspected and approved by the proper authorities."

[ccoombs]

This type of notching is done on almost every gable end truss in California. The work done in the picture looks very clean!

I would note it in your inspection report to cover any potential liability but I would not recommend further evaluation.

If the gable end truss sits over an exterior wall it will be continuously supported. These trusses will typically be designed as a drag truss and take into account the notching.

[Kenton H. Shepard, CMI]

I was looking at it wrong. With the gabled end sheathed and typically nailed off at 6&12 it should be fine. I guess I'd mention it but structurally it's not going anywhere.

[bjones1]

Up here, notching the gable end truss is common, it is done to support the lookouts and fascia on the end of the gable. Since the webbing in the truss is vertical, it is considered by Building inspectors to be ok. More truss makers are switching to drop gables where the only notching is on the 2X6 outrigger itself.

[Mike Truss Guy]

Those gable trusses are notched for outlookers. Typically in the truss calc package that is submitted, there is a detail showing this notch detail. Remember that this truss is covered with sheathing and sits on a continuous bearing wall.

[Tim Spargo]

Yes, it is generally OK. Many time the calc's include a pre-req for nailing a 1 x 4 under notches on a gable end.