International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Structural Contains discussions about the structural portion of a home inspection. This includes foundations, framing, et cetera. |
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#1
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
-Radon gas and INSIDE drain tile-baseboard systems w/sumps
Let`s see, How does radon enter homes? http://radon.utoledo.edu/remedy_mech.html 2nd para " the major points of ENTRY are the cracks,joints and other penetrations. It is THESE openings in Walls that allow soil-gas to enter the building" http://www.cbc.ca/news/background/health/radon.html How does radon get into my home? "Is your house airtight? Very few are,especially older homes-and especially if the foundation or any of the walls are built with concrete BLOCKS, which are Particularly Porous to radon....." And so, INSIDE Co`s who only/rather install Inside drain tile/baseboard systems w/sumps also drill HOLES in hollow-block walls, oh yes, indeed they do. They do not seal/waterproof cracks/other Outside openings-crevices and have been drilling holes in YOUR block walls. Plus, they also leave openings/GAPS at wall-floor joint, yeah the cold joint, cove, yes they do. Now, what can enter through hollow-block walls and openings in floors? Yer darn skippy. http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/physic.html#Character lets make sure! How does radon enter? "radon gas can enter a home from the SOIL THROUGH cracks in floors and walls, floor drains, sump pumps, construction joints and tiny cracks or pores in hollow-block walls" a) cracks in concrete slabs b) spaces behind brick veneer walls that rest on uncapped hollow brick foundation c) pores and cracks in concrete blocks d) floor-wall joints e) exposed soil, as in a sump f) weeping drain tile, if drained to open sump g) mortar joints etc..... |
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#2
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
yeah, i know i know, i missed some of you too
ok, so now we have Inside drain tile and baseboard systems with sumps that don`t appear to help stop/prevent radon entry. If anything, sure seems it may allow EASIER access for radon gas to enter, if you can`t figure that out then your more than a couple sandwiches short of a picnic. It`s these same dang openings/pathways/cracks etc that...... allow WATER to ENTER Most basements which can also cause....mold.Same openings that allow easy access for our creepy-crawler friends like termites,ants,spiders, centipedes etc. But noooooooo, somehow.....some seem to think it all has to do with raising-sloping the grade, extending the downspouts, splash blocks for krist sake Hey, will some of ya`s try using your brain a tad more when it comes to how water, yeah rain, percolates through soil. Jesus, just because someone raises `n slopes the grade does not mean all water will be diverted away from the entire basement walls, think! There is NO Underground slope, NO Underground bias, hello? Let me ask, just where in the world do YOU think the water goes that may be diverted several feet away from a house? Huh? Do you really think diverting some SURFACE water keeps all water away from entire depth of foundation walls? Why do some recommend sealing/patching cracks in driveways and NOT in basement walls? Why do some recommend fixing a handrail but not fixing/repairing a crack in a basement wall? I bet-hope most recommend to repair a leaky roof And some cry and wonder why they get sued, shtt, i`m posting to help, to inform, to wake some of yer butts up, but some don`t like my approach, i say tough crap. I wonder how many of you who inspect basement walls and give recommendations to homeowners truly understand that, MANY hollow block walls can look fine on Inside of basement, have NO visible cracks on Inside and, on OUTSIDE of these SAME walls, have cracks which is what is allowing water to enter into the hollow block and eventually onto the basement floor at/near cold joint-cove. Got milk? Last edited by john bubber; 6/19/06 at 6:57 PM.. |
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#3
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
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#4
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
http://www.waterproofyourhome.com/faq.htm
...2nd Q `n A...are you going to dig up my house? No, our work is done from inside the basement. When you dig up the house you`re just redoing the same process that already failed. Odds are high that the problem will occur again in a few years. It`s the biggest mess and most expensive means of correction and in most cases has no warranty. They go on to say trapping water inside blocks can cause....deterioration of the block and increase the chance of mold, THIS IS true! First, most basement walls new or old are NOT Waterproofed and are NOT backfilled with peastone. They are at best parged/damproofed and backfilled with soil that was excavated from site. Backfilling w/site soil can cause walls to crack,bow due to the soil compacting `n then exerting pressure against walls. Then down the road a tad, soils can expand & contract which can also cause walls to crack/leak. http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp 6th,7th para`s http://www.askthebuilder.com/NH058_-...ndations.shtml "there is a significant DIFFERENCE between damproofing and waterproofing" (and yes,backfilling) So, many Inside Co`s do not stop/prevent water from entering which can cause mold,deterioration of block due to water STILL entering, they don`t help lessen Outside lateral `n hydrostatic soil pressure or tree roots which can also crack/push against walls, cause cracks/leaks etc. They don`t help stop RADON from entering, efflorescence,termites etc. They say Outside is messy and EXPENSIVE? lolol What a crock o shtt, misleading and simply NOT true. Many homeowners have 1 or 2 areas/cracks-walls, this is all they need to fix, this is why water is entering. So its going to cost LESS to actually stop/prevent water from entering on the Outside than an Inside drain tile/baseboard system & sump. LESS, Not more expensive! And NO warranty? W H A T??????? says who? Them? hahahhaaaa Last edited by john bubber; 6/21/06 at 7:52 AM.. |
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#5
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rcooke is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Good Info thanks John
Roy Cooke sr ... Royshomeinspection.com |
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#6
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
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#7
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Please Note:
wtrprfr1 is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Nicely done!
www.integritywaterproofing.com |
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#8
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
wtrpr,
http://www.integritywaterproofing.com/wst_page5.html myself and several others here in Michigan agree with you. i mean lic/ins/honest contractors who have been in business for 25++ years and have always had a clean-no complaints BBB record, unlike many INSIDE 'only' companies, many of whom have 10,20,50,70+ BBB Complaints in.....the LAST 36 Months! now, thats a good bullchtt story they tell! Your right on about those Salespeople who have NO-zero-nada hands on Experience and knowledge, other than how to BS homeowners, they are Very good at that! I weep for the homeowners who take their con-game as fact. Yeah, your right on about these Inside Co`s supposed lifetime guranatees too. People are spending their cash almost-always on these Inside bs systems that doesn`t stop water from ENTERING, won`t help stop/prevent mold,efflorescence,further cracking-bowing due to OUTSIDE Soil pressure `n tree roots, won`t help stop any of our lil insect friends from entering through the same cracks/openings on the Outside AND, Inside systems do NOT help stop/prevent Radon gas entry! If anything, they and their systems allow EASIER access. Inside drain tile or baseboard systems are needed about 10% of the time, thats it! With all the MONEY some of these Inside Co`s spend on Tv/radio/BIG yellow Pg ads,newspaper ads, and seems like hundreds of internet ads, they give themselves a huge opportunity to.....BS people even more. Then you toss in some radio home improvement hosts who are on 100+ radios stations throughout the country and the BS story gets Bigger `n bigger. In TIME, THEY get people thinking its the truth, best system etc. Did i say this shtt pizzes me off yet? Member that good lookin` sweety Sheena Easton? She had a song that went something like "You can lead a horse to water, but you cannot make him drink....you can give a man your whole heart `n soul but you cannot make him THINK" Sorry, popped in head Ok, back to your page 5, yeah.....the installers. They make very little and MOST have very little if any experience at all. And the Inside Co/owners will try `n tell ya they are 'trained'....yeah, trained at what? Installing inside systems? Thats ALL they are told, thats what they learn. they dunno diddley about the things that matter, the facts-the real reasons MOST basements leak. So who gets most of the cash? You know who. By the way, MANY of these Inside Co 'owners' have crap for brains when it comes to basement waterproofing, yer darn tooting. lateral `n hydrostatic soil pressure, tree roots, what kind of problems occur? 6th, 7th para http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp http://www.al-home-inspections.com/n...article-4.html http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library...ion-A2095.html scroll down to --Trees and Your Foundation-- http://landmarksociety.org/section.h...uid=1&pageId=7 "Strong foundations are sometimes damaged by small roots that entered tiny cracks, then GREW and EXPANDED the Crack. Large roots can push bulges into the foundation WALL" Lets think about just how the heck ANY Inside System can possibly remove any roots off the Outside of any basement wall, huh? They can`t, gotta go....ahem, Outside to accomplsih this. Same goes for removing any Outside soil pressure! http://www.shakeronline.com/dept/building/FAQ.asp ....scroll down to Wet Basements Q1) are sump pump systems allowed....? "Yes, although this is NOT the approach we recommend. It`s not waterproofing, it`s water management........this approach does not eliminate mold,mildew etc...." Yeah, and it doesn`t help stop/prevent radon gas either. It`s estimated to cause about 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year, yeah...more than drunk drivers/home fires etc. Q6) what if the problem is not related to surface grading(pfft) and.....water is leaking through the foundation? "The Preferred method for dealing with damp and leaking basements is to dig around the perimeter of foundation (only where needed,where leak is) all the way DOWN to Footing.......thats waterproofing done right". yes it is, but all peastone backfill is BEST! http://www.stocorp.com/pr.nsf/5d5efb...a?OpenDocument scroll to..... --Federal Response-- " I would say 90% of the moisture problems in houses are related to moisture coming IN from the OUTSIDE" Some of us have been busting our butts 25+ years and trying to explain this but according to many of our Inside systems friends, they try `n tell ya buncha crap incl`g most problems are from under the floor/footing etc, they make ridiculous claims like "Oh, outside method is Very expensive,messy,little or no warranty, outside was already done and it didn`t work then & won`t work now" etc....yeah, they talk alot of shtt! Pizzes me off, did i say that yet? http://www.marketwire.com/mw/release...ease_id=130735 Now, check it out, please read 4th paragraph THEY say...."a crack is NOT due to improper building practices or other construction related activety" It isn`t huh? hahaha, shtt wake up will ya please. So, cracks are NOT related to some builders cutting corners like not compacting soil on site,thinner-shallower footings, NOT related to no use of steel reinforcing rod in walls huh, NOT related to poor backfilling practices like pushing tons of heavy soil against new wall(s) w/heavy equipment or with no floor in place `n others. NOT related to using heavy equipment to close to basement walls, yeah, that can certainly cause a basement wall to CRACK, the weight of heavy equipment alone causes an Underground surcharge pressure that is transferred to the bsmt wall. Shht, to some of us, damproofing is an improper building practice and so is not backfilling with most--all peastone. Is this really an EXPERT? The experts i know understand at least this much, got milk? http://www.doityourself.com/stry/wetbasements scroll to A WARNING............. "....these evaluations are usually conducted by salespeople with minimal technical training and often the only solution they sell is the drain & sump system. It is not a surprise then, that they arrive at the conclusion that the drain `n sump system is the best solution for you 99% of the time" 3rd para..." another common problem with waterproofing companies, espec in the Wash area, is price gouging (its not just there)......several well established firms in this market are believed to CONSPIRE to Fix Prices.Allegedly, in some cases, two so-called competitors may in fact be two branches of the same operation.Waterproofing is the one home service field in this area where a Significant chunk of the market is held by Completely UNSCRUPULOUS firms. Be careful, don`t let the firm`s size fool you" Last edited by john bubber; 6/22/06 at 3:41 PM.. |
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#9
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Please Note:
wtrprfr1 is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Keep up the good fight. Your post taught me more about waterproofing than I learned in 8 years working for the company that spawned all these interior drain companies.
www.integritywaterproofing.com |
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#10
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
wtrprf,
thanks, and thanks for your honesty. takes a real man to say that and want to learn/understand the truth to....help homeowners make the best/correct choice when it comes to waterproofing/foundation work. on your website, its nice to FINALLY see one contractor who does inside systems who clearly identifies what an Interior system does, controls/manages most-all water that ENTERS from outside 90% of the time, Under the floor. It doesn`t stop/prevent water from entering outside penetrations,mold,radon,soil pressure etc. People sorely need MORE contractors like you and, your in Ohio? lol Yes, many there and throughout midwest & east sure need HONEST answers. |
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#11
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Why do I feel like I am getting flashbacks of a dream maybe.???
Marcel |
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#12
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Marcel...back ta work Got milk? Got mold http://www.des.state.nh.us/pdf/MOLD_in_Homes_Web.pdf 'Molds can grow on many substances where, AHEM, moisture is present' ....i would hope most would agree with DAT How do i tell if i have a mold problem in my home? "....look for signs of excess moisture or water damage....sometimes destructive techniques may be needed to inspect and clean enclosed spaces where mold and moisture are hidden,example, opening up a wall cavity" -Clean Up and Removal- The most important step in SOLVING a mold problem is to identify and correct the moisture sources that Allowed the growth in the first place. flooding, condensation, movement through basement walls and slab etc So Inside drain tile and Baseboard systems w/sumps do NOT stop water entering through cracks & other openings in basement walls! They should keep most water that WILL continue to ENTER, off most of the basement floor. To continue to allow water to enter through a hollow block wall can, deteriorate the wall. Just another reason Inside companies want to install/place a partial or full sheeting against the basement wall. What about the humidity increase in basement huh? Eh, hollow-block basement walls can HOLD water, water can get locked up INSIDE the hollow blocks, oh yes it can. Water is still entering through cracks and other outside penetrations,that sheeting sure comes in handy for Inside companies And when THEY drill holes in the BOTTOM course of block wallit does not mean all water will be drained out of the blocks ABOVE, bs, doesn`t work that way. Yeah, in theory it sounds good but is NOT always the case. We have seen water locked up in block walls, in the cells/cavities,2',3'-5' high when an Inside system was already done and holes had been drilled in bottom course. Yeah, to hide further wall movement/deterioration and to conceal those wet/damp spots on basement wall along with mold,efflorescence. Yeah, that 'Bright wall sheeting' can sure hide lots or problems huh They don`t cover further/future wall movement on those lifetime- guarantees do they, no! They don`t cover wet/damp spots `n any further discoloration on basement walls do they, no! And just because they installed an Inside drain tile or baseboard system does NOT mean they guarantee any water coming up through the rest of the basement floor. Most ONLY cover the AREA where they worked, that 18"-24" along the inside perimeter, it`s best to read that small print on their supposed Lifetime warranty of structure, yeah. Insects seem to enjoy damp/wet conditions too, just what your wife was hoping for. Well, Inside systems most often will give you that. http://www.shakeronline.com/dept/building/FAQ.asp Scroll down to....Wet Basements question 1 and 5 Http://www.ottawastructural.com/treesfoundations.htm Can any Inside System relieve Outside problems? Well, can they? Nothttp://www.ottawastructural.com/Abou...l%20Issues.pdf Last edited by john bubber; 6/27/06 at 12:43 AM.. |
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#13
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Thanks for the information.
Marcel |
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#14
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Please Note:
john bubber is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
hehehe Welcome to our neighborhood
http://www.marketwire.com/mw/release...ease_id=142150 let`s see, they say they are foundation repair specialists they say their repair method is cost effective,clean and....permanent as Lee Corso says, not so fast my friend Injections of poured wall cracks are Not...permanent, thats right, not all injections are permanent due to further SOIL pressure on the outside of the basement wall which in many cases caused the dang crack to begin with. And tree roots, yeah, they can also cause cracks in basement walls and push against walls. This is why about 50% of all injections will....fail, the crack will widen/pop open and....leak again. Permanent? someone who claims to be a foundation repair expert should know this and explain this to homeowners, that is if they really give a shtt. Fact is, those who only do injections either don`t know or, aren`t going to inform the homeowner of this, yeah...self interest. hey BBB-for consumer information, not for sales or promotional purposes http://www.stlouis.bbb.org/commonrep...mpid=310001164 seems somes consumers would agree not all injections are...permanent. here is another company that apparently does injections, what do they say? http://www.suredrybasements.com/sureDryCrackRepair.html "...we have had to watch as continued structural movement and further concrete shrinkage have re-opened cracks to LEAK....injection alone CANNOT provide a Lasting-Solution as cracks get LARGER and soil expansion and contraction cause the foundation to shift and settle" Got Milk? Only way to help lessen/relieve lateral `n hydrostatic soil pressure & tree roots is from the.....outside, NOT inside. http://www.prwebdirect.com/releases/...rweb235141.php 3rd para....they say " a cracked foundation is not due to improper building practices or other construction related activety" it isn`t huh?Oh...and the 'thousands of dollars bit'....they apparently charge $500-600 for their injection of one crack which takes about 1 hour. Hey...to repair most cracks in poured walls from outside is not in thousands but rather $775-950. Depends on depth to footing etc and takes about 4 hours. It costs 'a lil more' because....we haul the soil away, backfill w/peastone etc! Geeez....the labor to hand dig is a TON more difficult versus a one hour injection! C`mon, lets get ALL the facts out there, not this one sided-partial bs. Last edited by john bubber; 7/15/06 at 7:01 AM.. |
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#15
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rrichards2 is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Foundation sealing from the outside (when practical and cost effective) is always my first choice. Thanks for the info John.
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