anyone have any good information on steel frame construction for inspection purposes… I’ve been asked to inspection one in a few weeks and want to learn about it first to decide if it is something i want to do or take more time to learn for the next one.
any info or CE info would be great!
thanks
Jeff
Jeff, if you need help with this, I am here. Just define what kind of steel frame you are talking about and I can help you.
If there is steel frame, there are Purlins, anchor bolts, 325 bolts 325 TC bolts, bar joist, steel bridging, decking, Type B, painted, Type C, galvanized,
Seating minimums, Bolted connections, moment connections, and the list goes on. Then there is the simple pre-engineered Steel Building.
Just e-mail me or call me during the day at 751-8406.
Marcel 
I’ve done a number of light gauge steel frames and am also available 6PM-10PM if you’d like to talk about them. I have free LD so e-mail me if the toll charges are a problem and I’ll call you.
By Timothy J. WaitePublished 2000
Craftsman Book Company
Steel framing (Building)
ISBN 1572180455Add to my library Write review
Buy this bookAmazon.comBarnes&Noble.com - $39.75Books-A-Million - $27.82BookSense.comGoogle Product Search Borrow this bookFind this book in a library
One of the first really thorough instruction manuals on how to construct residences using steel framing instead of wood, and written by Tim Waite of the NAHB. Covers how to design the structure to accommodate plumbing, wiring and HVAC, how to cut, assemble and secure the steel, how to deal with second-story construction, roof framing using trusses and conventional construction, specialty framing like curved walls and radius windows, how to attach drywall and exterior finishes, how to effectively install insulation, and how to deal with inspectors and the homebuyer.
Thanks Barry;
I was probably on the wrong track, because when someone says steel frame, I immediately think something like this;
I have read quite a bit about the pictures you show, but never seen them up here. Don’t know if it has anything to do with the snow loads. Never went in that deep.
How common is light gauge Metal framing in your area?
Marcel 
Love the smell of red iron hanging in the morning 
I as well may have misinterpreted Jeff’s post but I knew where your mind went just as soon as I’d seen your reply.
That would have been my knee jerk response 20 years ago.
Not much but I had a great run in the pictured subdivision while the were being constructed.
There’s a push in some areas and there have been a few more subdivisions that solely use this technology.
Not a stick of wood to be found unless it’s for backing.
I’ve only been involved with 1 house that wasn’t single story.
i just got some more information… here is a link to the home we are looking at…
http://mreis.mlxchange.com/Pub/EmailView.asp?r=1627924410&s=MRE&t=MRE
Well, that is much better than Bangor, ha. ha.
We were thinking of what you posted here. This one does not fit the category, unless I am missing something.
Marcel
i was misled a little… but it is still steel framed… i am asking for more info… but it appears like a typical residential inspection i will just do a little homework on the steel framing…
much better than Bangor too… buyer is contacting a structural engineer to go look at the place… do you know any good ones that could do something like that? not sure who will be paying for that… but if he plans to pursue the building it needs to be done.
that same house (bangor) had all teh copper stolen last year while vacant… all been re-piped! but they left the knob and tube!!!
It is probably light-gauge steel framing. If so, the connections are critical, and chances are, few of them will be visible. It’s a matter basically of number and type of screws, and the pattern of them. The best way to inspect it would be to try to obtain a set of the construction documents. They should have the critical connections detailed on them. Other issues are member width, depth and gauge, and again, the best way to inspect would be to check what members you can see against the construction documents.
I actually know a bunch of structural Engineers, but never persued asking them to do this kind of thing.
If I had to guess, it would not be cheap.
I will find out.
There is one I worked with alot in Brunswick, and I will find out.
I am thinking of sharing the technical knowledge concept, and teaming up with a structural Engineer. He does the calculations and I do the rest. ha. ha.
Marcel
some information i have received is the home is part of an estate… the seller has never lived there… gotten all his information from a previous owner… the house was built in 98… i will see what is available for drawings but i suspect it will be quite a task to track them down.
Jeff, take lots of pictures and post them, there are a bunch of people here that can help, believe me. I know.
If you see any connections that are structurally connected, you should see some #10 or #12 screws (teks) in the panel points and that is why you would not know if there is something wrong unless you have the shop drawings on the engineered system.
Marcel
[size=2]IRC R603 & R804
[/size]
I think this website will help also ;
http://www.dietrichindustries.com/canada/
That is where most of our framing supplies come from.
Marcel
hey… i’ve been out all day and actually stopped by and got a early peak at this one… inspection on Saturday. but i will post a few photos in a bit…
Marcel, did you ever come up with an engineer name for me?
Sent you a couple, hope that helps.
Marcel
the realtor on that is representing both sides and tried putting it off on me to schedule a structural inspection… well that did not fly… i just wanted to give some names… she spouted deadlines and i told her to start calling… LOL
here are some photos of the property…
i got a good long look at the property today… no one else there… inspection almost completed… will meet with buyer/client Saturday and go over things…
Jeff, I don’t see anything wrong in the first picture.
You don’t normally splice the stud tracks, the sippit screws match the picture below and a few more drywall screws are used to anchor the track.
The last picture is an improper connection and should be done correctly.
I can’t see the other side.
There should have been and angle bracket to hold the header and the joist together, one on one side.
There is nothing for me to verify the gauge.
If the studs under the stairwell is non-bearing, it appears functional.
The over cuts in the stringer for the stairs are excessive and the picture seems to indicate that there is far less than 31/2" left after the cut.
Just my thoughts Jeff.
Marcel
Hey Marcel and all… very good information. I’ve learned a lot already… the inspection was completed today and went pretty well.
Biggest concern at this point is heat loss in the home… the corners of rooms (shaded sides) were especially cold… you could actually feel where the steel studs were… in the basement, at the sills, the knockouts and corners of the steel framing were almost drafty… i registered a 35 degrees in one area… they were filled with fiberglass insulation. Is there typically any thermal barrier or break between the exterior (vinyl siding, building paper and OSB)?