"How to Inspect the Exterior" Course

[Ben J. Gromicko]

This thread is dedicated exclusively for those students currently enrolled in the InterNACHI course titled, "How to Inspect the Exterior" located at http://www.nachi.org/exteriorcourse.htm.

Thank you.

[Ed Turner]

Hi Ben,

A really good course.

Just thought you may like to know that I built custom homes (log and conventional) and additions for some 22 years. I also spent 4 years a a contractor services rep. at a large building centre.

I really wanted ot send you a message regarding PWF basements. I have built 4 PWF's myself and designed my son's new 2500 sq. ft. two storey house's PWF. We have thousands of them here in Canada and we even have a CSA standard devoted to them.
I advised on an addition to a log home last year. The original home was built in the early 1980's. I was called to look at the exisiting PWF and confirm that it didn't need replacing. Wow, other than some scuff marks and dirt all the visible sheathing look shockingly good. No repair was needed.

Just a couple of comments. We build them with a concrete footing with PVC horizontal pies through the footings 4 to 6 feet appart. 8 to 10 inches of cruch stone with 6 mil poly over it. the base grade is toward a sump well.

Outside we use perforated Big "O" with crush over it. The PWF ply is on a 2 X8 stud wall (we can backfill it to 7 feet) and we can put up to R-28 of Roxul insulation into it. (Roxul is a super Canadian product. It has one of the highest R values for any batt insulation, is fireproof and water proof. If you don't know the product google "roxul".)
Black foundation coating x 2, 6 mil poly and superseal drain board finish it.

We stand the walls up, bolt them down with galvanized anchor bolts and put the floor on. Then we put on a screed board around the wall, install the sump well and pour the floor and a couple of days later backfill. Awesome basement with a 60 year warranty on materials that can be built in the pouring rain.

Have a look at this Canadian site. http://www.canply.org/english/products/pwf.htm

Thanks again for another great course.

Ed Turner - NACHI10112702

[Brian A. MacNeish]

Originally Posted by eturner

Hi Ben,

A really good course.

Just thought you may like to know that I built custom homes (log and conventional) and additions for some 22 years. I also spent 4 years a a contractor services rep. at a large building centre.

I really wanted ot send you a message regarding PWF basements. I have built 4 PWF's myself and designed my son's new 2500 sq. ft. two storey house's PWF. We have thousands of them here in Canada and we even have a CSA standard devoted to them.
I advised on an addition to a log home last year. The original home was built in the early 1980's. I was called to look at the exisiting PWF and confirm that it didn't need replacing. Wow, other than some scuff marks and dirt all the visible sheathing look shockingly good. No repair was needed.

Just a couple of comments. We build them with a concrete footing with PVC horizontal pies through the footings 4 to 6 feet appart. 8 to 10 inches of cruch stone with 6 mil poly over it. the base grade is toward a sump well.

Outside we use perforated Big "O" with crush over it. The PWF ply is on a 2 X8 stud wall (we can backfill it to 7 feet) and we can put up to R-28 of Roxul insulation into it. (Roxul is a super Canadian product. It has one of the highest R values for any batt insulation, is fireproof and water proof. If you don't know the product google "roxul".)
Black foundation coating x 2, 6 mil poly and superseal drain board finish it.

We stand the walls up, bolt them down with galvanized anchor bolts and put the floor on. Then we put on a screed board around the wall, install the sump well and pour the floor and a couple of days later backfill. Awesome basement with a 60 year warranty on materials that can be built in the pouring rain.

Have a look at this Canadian site. http://www.canply.org/english/products/pwf.htm

Thanks again for another great course.

Ed Turner - NACHI10112702

Did you any see any in your area without the concrete footing?

All I worked on or built myself, we just used the compacted crushed stone base (Minimum 5" base) over which we placed and leveled a treated footing plate- 2"x8" for 6" thick wall or 2"x10" for 8" thick wall. We then built and stood up the foundation walls on the footing plates.

[David C. Coutts]

I must have missed the EPS definition somewhere with reference to EIFS cladding.
What does EPS stand for?
Thanks.

[Ben J. Gromicko]

Originally Posted by dcoutts

I must have missed the EPS definition somewhere with reference to EIFS cladding.
What does EPS stand for?
Thanks.

Good question.
The following has been added to the course:

Polystyrene

Polystyrene is a polymer, and one of the most widely used plastics. Solid polystyrene is used, for example, in disposable cutlery, plastic models, CD and DVD cases, and smoke detector housings. Products made from foamed polystyrene are nearly ubiquitous, for example packing materials, insulation, and foam drink cups.

EPS

Expanded polystyrene (EPS) is a rigid and tough, closed-cell foam. It is usually white and made of pre-expanded polystyrene beads. Familiar uses include molded sheets for building insulation and packing material ("peanuts") for cushioning fragile items inside boxes.

XPS

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) is a closed-cell foam. Styrofoam is a trademarked name for XPS; however, it is often also used in the United States as a generic name for all polystyrene foams.