International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Canadian Inspectors This is a place for Canadian InterNACHI inspectors and other inspectors in Canada to discuss local inspection topics. |
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#1
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Please Note:
pmassie is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Hi
Ok i am looking at holmes inspection on tv. i have a question: they are re-sheeting a roof over the dry roted, original one. is this ok? i mean..i don't want to sound like an idiot but... doesn't make sense to me can a pro elaborate on this pls. |
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#2
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Holmes is not an inspector. He only plays one on television.
James H. Bushart Professional Building Analyst, BPI Missouri, Kansas and Arkansas 314-803-2167 |
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#3
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Please Note:
pmassie is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
believe me if there is something i do know (100000 threads on holmes in this forum) is he is not an inspector.....still....about the roof? |
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#4
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Please Note:
Brian A. MacNeish is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
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The program on HGTV usually repeats once or twice into the late night. I may see it again and comment again. |
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#5
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I was told that on one program where he was building a fence showing people how to build it in sections got some built some installed .
Had enough footage for the program and just said thats all folks you got the lumber we are out of here and away they went . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marcus_Welby,_M.D. he was not a Doctor Just play one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perry_Mason not a lawyer just played one Mike Homes just plays at being a builder , Need help on inspection call my cell 613-827-2011 I like email Roycooke@hotmail.com Never wrestle with a pig (however titled) as you just get dirty and the pig has all the fun. |
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#6
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Please Note:
pmassie is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
imo....dry rot will deteriorate..and adding new sheeting on top of the dry roted one's is not structutaly ...sane..imo
you there Marcel? (lol) |
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#7
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Please Note:
Brian A. MacNeish is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
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People find the rot in a dry condition and assume it rotted that way. They got to understand the rot process!! |
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#8
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Please Note:
cboyd is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
I agree with Brian, if your moisture meter shows dry and it's not structural, protect the area with new sheeting, shingles and should be ok. Have not seen the show myself and will check it out.
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#9
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Chuck Crooker I.M.M., Canadian Home Inspectorhttp://www.crookerhancox.com "Not just an inspection, an Education!!!"
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#10
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And if it was "not that bad", how long would it have taken?
Jeffrey R. Jonas Critical Eye Property Inspections JRJ Consultants Owatonna, Minnesota Chapter President InterNachi Awards Portal: http://co.nachi.org/inachiawards/
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#11
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Correct me if I am wrong ,but I think Patrick is picturing this like someone laying new linoleum tile on the old,brittle ,laying in pieces tile of a kitchen floor.
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#12
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Please Note:
pmassie is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
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yep...loll It's my ''aerospace way of thinking'',lollll to me it's like this: If it's structural , and its molecular structure as been modified or is not in its original condition, it will be problematic in the future So we have wood, wood that was once wet and rotted, now, the rotted wood is dry...but still..it's rotted Sorry I'm doing my best to explain the way i think...not easy when you're french..loll |
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#13
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I wonder how many HI's would have done it this way on their own home? Well, maybe I don't want to know! Jeffrey R. Jonas Critical Eye Property Inspections JRJ Consultants Owatonna, Minnesota Chapter President InterNachi Awards Portal: http://co.nachi.org/inachiawards/
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| Need a home inspection in Prince Edward Island? Check out InterNACHI's listing of Prince Edward Island certified home inspectors. Or, find a home inspector anywhere in the world with our inspection search engine. |
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#14
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http://www.uoguelph.ca/~gbarron/MISCELLANEOUS/jan01.htm
You can fall through it, by just leaning against it! Inspection Support Services Inc. "Those who can do. Those who CARE, teach" or “Teaching is the highest form of understanding.” Aristotle |
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#15
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Please Note:
Brian A. MacNeish is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Quote:
Here's the rub: Two years ago, did a litigation consult on a 7 month old $800 grand house with some serious rot going on. Brought in a Phd mycologist to indentify mould in case we went to court. His recommendation was to cut back at least 2 feet from the last point of visible mould as the microscopic rhizomes can be far into the wood but you can't see them. With new moisture, they will start to grow again. With formerly wet, now old "dry rot" in the roof sheathing, cutting back that far gets us into the the rafters and trusses. Do we have to start replacing them if no rot appears in them but the rotted sheathing touched them or was within 2 feet of them? If the rare "Serpula" species is found, how far back do we remove the wood? many meters? from the University of Dundee: http://www.trp.dundee.ac.uk/research...ry/dryrot.html "If timber components are kept dry ie there is no abnormal ingress of water into the building either in the form of rainwater or excess humidity, then they will be stable for long periods of time. However, excess moisture can allow the colonisation of timber by wood decay fungi, notably by organisms causing wet and dry rot. Wet rot is a generic term which covers decay ocurring in very damp conditions, eg by rot caused by the organism Coniophora puteana (often referred to as cellar fungus) identified by dark brown threads spreading over the surface of the timber. Dry rot is caused by Serpula lacrymans which is generally considered to be more dangerous than wet rot fungi, since it is less easily controlled by drying regimes. However, as for all wood decay fungi, it cannot operate in dry wood and removal of excess moisture from timber is the only long term method of control. Both wet and dry rot are types of "brown" rot, so called because ultimately the timber becomes a brown and dry dust. http://www.buildingpreservation.com/Rots.htm "Dry rot (Serpula lacrymans): Almost certainly the most 'feared' of the rots, and sometimes called the 'cancer of a house'. However, like ALL wood rotting fungi, it requires water to become initiated, to grow and survive. Dry rot is restricted to damp humid conditions; this makes it sometimes very difficult to find. Dry rot has the ability to grow over and through materials from which it gains no nutritional value, eg, soil, plaster, mortar. BUT IT CAN ONLY DO THIS EFFECTIVELY IF SUCH MATERIALS ARE DAMP - IT WILL NOT GROW OVER AND THROUGH GENUINELY DRY MATERIALS!!. Thus, if there is dry rot in, say, flooring timbers it will not grow up through the masonry of the walls and effectively rot the rest of the house if such walls are dry." http://www.marstontimber.co.uk/true_...nfestation.php "The term "Dry Rot" is a misnomer because the attack normally occurs only in damp situations, usually because of accidental conditions of moisture. Permanent wetness rarely causes Dry Rot, but if the wetness is sporadic, as would be the case from faults in the rainwater system, leaks from the internal plumbing, bridging of, lack of, or a defective damp proof course, it is then that Dry Rot is likely to occur." Last edited by Brian A. MacNeish; 4/17/10 at 5:55 PM.. |
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