International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
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| Thermal Imaging, Infrared Cameras & Energy Audits Contains discussions about thermal imaging, infrared cameras, energy audits, and more. |
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#1
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Is most usually Me, I have been thinking which is probably dangerous for me of a way to speed up and create a faster blower door than simply using in house exhaust fans such as dryers kitchen exhaust and bathroom exhausts.
My question is has anyone ever seen a high cfm fan mounted on a board or plastic that would fit into a standard door frame or window frame considered as portable that one person might carry to the job site to move large volumes of air quickly. I am in the process of pushing energy audits due to the high prices of fuel and or energy and have been thinking about fabricating such a device to move air but thought there might be one on the market already. Anyone have any knowledge of this. Freedom Express Inspections LLC CMOR Thermography Certified Level III #8486 freedomexpressinspections.com www.oklahomathermalinfraredimaging.com freedomexpress495@att.net NACHI Member Okla. State DEQ Environmental Phase One Certified Master HVAC Mechanic (Retired) Certified Universal Freon by 40CFR 82 Sub-part F State License # 130 Serving the States of Okla, Texas, Kansas, Missouri , Arkansas and New Mexico with Commercial Inspections,Thermal Imaging |
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#2
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Charlie,
I use one of those window fans that fit in like a window a/c unit. You can "suck" or "blow". I'm sure you have a manometer or a magnehelic laying around. |
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#3
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Why couldn't you use a condenser fan motor assembly off an old outside unit. You would need to replace the motor with one that runs off 115 volts but that should not be a problem. I took the top of an old outside unit to build an attic gable vent fan once. Made the box out of duct board and code tape, mounted it in the gable vent (large round vent). I left the 230 volt motor in, it only pulls 1 amp. Put it on an inline thermostat. It would would dang near blow you hat off if you walked under the gable. It dropped the temp in that attic significantly and my cooling bill dropped along with it. I can go into the attic and work if necessary without too much discomfort whereas before I could not stay but maybe 5 mins. Point is, you can probably find everything you need right now. It already comes with a cage to cover the blades, plus it does not weight that much. I humped it up into the attic by my lonesome and mounted it.
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#4
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Quote:
InterNachi Awards Portal: http://co.nachi.org/inachiawards/ ____________________________________________ "An Education, not just an Inspection" Larry Kage, CMI Lake Ann (Traverse City), Michigan 49650 231 929 3525 Professional Inspector serving the Traverse City, Michigan area and beyond.
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#5
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Make the board from coroplast.
A corrugated PVC. 4x8 sheet sells for 8 bucks. |
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#6
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Quote:
</IMG> Freedom Express Inspections LLC CMOR Thermography Certified Level III #8486 freedomexpressinspections.com www.oklahomathermalinfraredimaging.com freedomexpress495@att.net NACHI Member Okla. State DEQ Environmental Phase One Certified Master HVAC Mechanic (Retired) Certified Universal Freon by 40CFR 82 Sub-part F State License # 130 Serving the States of Okla, Texas, Kansas, Missouri , Arkansas and New Mexico with Commercial Inspections,Thermal Imaging |
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#7
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Quote:
InterNachi Awards Portal: http://co.nachi.org/inachiawards/ ____________________________________________ "An Education, not just an Inspection" Larry Kage, CMI Lake Ann (Traverse City), Michigan 49650 231 929 3525 Professional Inspector serving the Traverse City, Michigan area and beyond.
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#8
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Please Note:
Brian A. MacNeish is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Quote:
Last edited by Brian A. MacNeish; 3/26/08 at 10:31 PM.. |
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#9
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If you are doing quanitative inspections, a professional door is a must. You don't just want to create negative pressure, but a certain LEVEL of negative pressure.
I have a door, but I have found it is rarely needed for residential use. Hope this helps; Will Decker, CMI ILL License # 450.0002240 Board Certified Master Inspector Decker Home Services, LLC Chicago and Northern Suburban Home Inspections Office: (847) 676-8393 Cell: (847) 609-2345 Home: (847) 673-2702 wjd@DeckerHomeServices.com www.DeckerHomeServices.com Learn, Educate, Serve and have fun doing it! |
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#10
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Quote:
Freedom Express Inspections LLC CMOR Thermography Certified Level III #8486 freedomexpressinspections.com www.oklahomathermalinfraredimaging.com freedomexpress495@att.net NACHI Member Okla. State DEQ Environmental Phase One Certified Master HVAC Mechanic (Retired) Certified Universal Freon by 40CFR 82 Sub-part F State License # 130 Serving the States of Okla, Texas, Kansas, Missouri , Arkansas and New Mexico with Commercial Inspections,Thermal Imaging |
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#11
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Please Note:
Brian A. MacNeish is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
Quote:
After about 1 year in the airsealing business in the early 1980's, I was actually telling some homeowners after a blower door test that it wasn't worth them hiring my services to reduce air leakage....the payback wasn't there. That sure gets around in a small town!! Last edited by Brian A. MacNeish; 3/27/08 at 5:27 AM.. |
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#12
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Please Note:
Chuck Lambert is a non-member guest and is in no way affiliated with InterNACHI or its members.
I would not even attempt to build or run a blower door without the proper training. Please if any of you build one and are in Southern California please call me when you do you first house with a fireplace!!!
Chuck |
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#13
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Quote:
Use a single speed motor and get a router speed controller so you can adjust your pressures more accurately. If you're going to use a squirrel cage blower, it (the motor) does not have to go into a door or window opening. Leave the blower assembly in the house and connect it with flex duct to a supply air duct boot mounted on an adjustable panel to fit a window opening. You can easily install your magnehelic connections to get your airflow volume if necessary. Those of you that are damning Charlie for making a blower door, he's talking about using it to enhance qualitative thermal inspections not to determine quantitative leakage of the house. |
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#14
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As this thread illustrates, there are a lot of ideas that can be throw on the table
as to how to do an energy audit and what methods can be used to get there. All the post I have read have some merit. Now if you find out what the client expects vs what you supply, that is the key. If you are not going to market you energy audit as an exact science, then perhaps Will's comments are a practicle middle ground to consider. Also what does the client want.? Most really want to know where to spend the bucks that give the most bang in return. Brians comments come from what he experienced. Please tell us more. BTW... this post is not bashing anyone. John McKenna, CMI (TREC #4565)
Executive Director - Master Inspector Certification Board 25 Yrs Constr Exp - 13 Yrs Home Inspector Exp American Home Inspection - East Texas. |
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#15
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Router speed controller will not work on a motor unless it is a "universial" motor.
Easy way to tell is it will have brushes Most blower motors are not of the universial type rlb |
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