Sample Energy Audit Report

[William J. Decker]

Here is an actual Energy Audit Inspection report that I did a couple of weeks ago, just the name and addressed changed. Big house (> 8,000 SF) and had sime real issues. The biggest of which was improperly installed high efficiency furnaces and tankless water heaters. Client was paying $14,000 per year on gas!

http://deckerhomeservices.com/Sample...gy%20Audit.pdf

Hope this helps;

[ldapkus]

Linked In has an energy audit group that has a lot of good discussions on energy audits.

[Kevin A. Richardson]

Originally Posted by wdecker

Here is an actual Energy Audit Inspection report that I did a couple of weeks ago, just the name and addressed changed. Big house (> 8,000 SF) and had sime real issues. The biggest of which was improperly installed high efficiency furnaces and tankless water heaters. Client was paying $14,000 per year on gas!

http://deckerhomeservices.com/Sample...gy%20Audit.pdf

Hope this helps;

Hey Will,

Since you posted this report, I'm assuming you are open to some constructive criticism.

If so, let me know because I have some comments or suggestions. I only will post with your permission.

Kevin

[Michael Roberson]

Nice finds Will, I hope you enlightened your client.

[William J. Decker]

Originally Posted by krichardson

Hey Will,

Since you posted this report, I'm assuming you are open to some constructive criticism.

If so, let me know because I have some comments or suggestions. I only will post with your permission.

Kevin

Post away, Kevin. I am always looking for ways to improve.

[Peter C. Russell]

I'm sure Will appreciates feedback and here is a few of mine.

Obviously there is heat loss through the roof and your recommendations about the soffit vents is accurate. Also, I identify the thermal boundary for my clients so they will have a better understanding of condition/non-conditioned space.

Has the chimney been flashed in the basement as well as the attic, if not this is important and should be installed using heavy 26 gauge steel flashing and appropriate caulking.

Has the attic hatch or opening been treated?

Has all penetrations through the thermal boundary been treated. If so an example in the report is helpful.

Has all the hot water piping been properly insulated with elastomeric pipe insulation that has a flame spread rating of no greater than 25, and has a minimum of 6'' from all heat sources?

Has the HVAC ducts been properly insulated? you did not provide thermal images and I'm curious if mastic was used on the joints or is there heat loss in these area's.

You could add that dense pack cellulose insulation is as effective as foam and maybe more cost effective.

Just a few idea's and I'm certainly not criticizing your report, it looks good, got to love Homegauge!!!!

I also want to note that it was Will who sent me his PP on thermal imaging which lead me to where I'm at now.

Thanks Will !!!!

[William J. Decker]

See Below, and thanks!

Originally Posted by prussell

I'm sure Will appreciates feedback and here is a few of mine.

Obviously there is heat loss through the roof and your recommendations about the soffit vents is accurate. Also, I identify the thermal boundary for my clients so they will have a better understanding of condition/non-conditioned space.

The attic area was tostally finished, with knee walls about 5' high. Unfaced fiberglass insulation in the kneewall studs. Just stuffed in and irregular. The knee wall areas also contained spaces for the 2 upstairs furnaces (Cat 4, high efficiency, and properly vented) but there were many unsealed openings where the ductwork and vents and electric penetrated the walls and insulation. I agree with regards to conditioned spaces.

Has the chimney been flashed in the basement as well as the attic, if not this is important and should be installed using heavy 26 gauge steel flashing and appropriate caulking.

Yep, but with good old "Chicago Style" flashing. Counterflashing not cut into the mortar, just placed against it and caulked. Most roofers around here have never heard about proper counter flashing.

Has the attic hatch or opening been treated?

No "attic hatches". Just unsealed doors (to the furnace areas) and plastic wall access panels.

Has all penetrations through the thermal boundary been treated. If so an example in the report is helpful.

Not done. See above.

Has all the hot water piping been properly insulated with elastomeric pipe insulation that has a flame spread rating of no greater than 25, and has a minimum of 6'' from all heat sources?

Not done. Just the fiberglass wall insulation.

Has the HVAC ducts been properly insulated? you did not provide thermal images and I'm curious if mastic was used on the joints or is there heat loss in these area's.

HVAC guys around here do not believe in sealing the duct joins. They say it deterorates after a few years. I say mastic or tape each join. But, even if taped, no effort to actually close off air leakage. The installers are lazy.

You could add that dense pack cellulose insulation is as effective as foam and maybe more cost effective.

In my experience, based upon this area and conditions and my past findings, cellolose is just mold food. Your experiences may vary.

Just a few idea's and I'm certainly not criticizing your report, it looks good, got to love Homegauge!!!!

I also want to note that it was Will who sent me his PP on thermal imaging which lead me to where I'm at now.

I got more.

Thanks Will !!!!

[Kevin A. Richardson]

Originally Posted by wdecker

Post away, Kevin. I am always looking for ways to improve.

Will,

I didn't read the entire report, but here are a few of my observations/suggestions:

1. You wrote this report in HG, so I would suggest that you check out their new Energy Template.

2. Roof Section: RR - Recommend that the knee wall areas, under the roof, be insulated with a spray foam type insulation installed on the underside of the roof and that the soffit vents be sealed in these areas.

Was the fiberglass insulation installed in the roof rafters or the floor of the attic? From an energy perspective, it does not make sense to recommend to your client that they insulate the underside of the roof with spray foam, unless the attic is inside the thermal boundary. Furthermore, telling them that they should seal the soffit vents is not good advise. A better approach would be to instruct them to install insulation baffles to keep the insulation from blocking the soffit vents and to prevent wind washing.

3. Heating Section: The house was heated by three category 4 high efficiency induced draft furnaces, two in the upper area of the house and one in the basement. The basement furnace did not have the manufacturer required combustion air intake vents ( Picture 1 ). This causes the furnace to draw combustion air from the house;'s interior air. This condition has lowered the efficiency of the furnace (by about 10%) and will reduce the furnaces life. It also causes the house to be under negative interior air pressure, which further enhances the cold air infiltration problem.

The combustion air intake is not always "required" to be taken from the exterior. Did you confirm the make and model, then look up the manufacturers installation instructions? Also, where did you come up with the 10% energy reduction theory?

In addition, the last sentence about negative air pressure is alarming and unfounded. In order to determine if their is too much negative pressure within the CAZ, you would have to conduct a Combustion Safety Test.

4. Insulation Section:
The built-in seat area, at the front of the house, displayed signs of cold air infiltration and lacking insulation behind the built-in seat ( Picture 1, 2 ) with an eight degree difference.

Unless you can see behind the wall or prove that the insulation is "lacking", you should have said that the thermal pattern is "consistent with missing or misapplied insulation."

The corner closet, at the rear of the house and adjacent to the garage, displayed an almost complete lack of insulation ( Picture 3, 4 ). This condition also exists in the area of the 2nd floor, above.

Again, how to you confirm the "complete lack of insulation." I'm not seeing that conclusion from the thermal image you are referencing in the report.

4. I noticed in several sections, you used the "Inspected" term, but then went on to describe a deficiency.

That's all for now......didn't really have time to go through it line by line.

Kevin

[Peter C. Russell]

Yep, but with good old "Chicago Style" flashing. Counterflashing not cut into the mortar, just placed against it and caulked. Most roofers around here have never heard about proper counter flashing.

I was referring to the interior space of the basement and the attic to reduce stack affect.

[Peter C. Russell]

Furthermore, telling them that they should seal the soffit vents is not good advise. A better approach would be to instruct them to install insulation baffles to keep the insulation from blocking the soffit vents and to prevent wind washing.


Kevin, sealing off the soffits vents usually is better than the air infiltration they tend to cause.

Studies show that unvented roofs will only increase the temperature of the shingle less than 10 degrees and in most cases well below the MFG. recommendation.

[Kevin A. Richardson]

Originally Posted by prussell

Furthermore, telling them that they should seal the soffit vents is not good advise. A better approach would be to instruct them to install insulation baffles to keep the insulation from blocking the soffit vents and to prevent wind washing.


Kevin, sealing off the soffits vents usually is better than the air infiltration they tend to cause.

I disagree! A soffit vent is designed to work in conjunction with a ridge vent to provide ventilation to the attic. We could debate the overall effectiveness of that type of ventilation method (different topic), but if properly installed, will not cause air infiltration. That's what the soffit baffles are for. The soffit vent itself does not cause air infiltration, rather the lack of air sealing at top plates (exterior walls) and the lack of insulation baffles.

Originally Posted by prussell

Studies show that unvented roofs will only increase the temperature of the shingle less than 10 degrees and in most cases well below the MFG. recommendation.

Post the studies, so I can read them in order to have a better understanding. I'm not going to tell my clients to seal there soffit vents unless I can back that up with proof that it's the best solution. Otherwise, I'm setting myself up for a future lawsuit (IMHO).

Kevin

[Peter C. Russell]

Originally Posted by krichardson

I disagree! A soffit vent is designed to work in conjunction with a ridge vent to provide ventilation to the attic. We could debate the overall effectiveness of that type of ventilation method (different topic), but if properly installed, will not cause air infiltration. That's what the soffit baffles are for. The soffit vent itself does not cause air infiltration, rather the lack of air sealing at top plates (exterior walls) and the lack of insulation baffles.



Post the studies, so I can read them in order to have a better understanding. I'm not going to tell my clients to seal there soffit vents unless I can back that up with proof that it's the best solution. Otherwise, I'm setting myself up for a future lawsuit (IMHO).

Kevin

Everything you posted is some what correct, all depends on type of construction.

I have yet to see proper air sealing at the soffit in new construction, this needs to be completed while the home is framed.

Can you explain how to properly air seal the top plate and soffit, post construction?

[Peter C. Russell]

www.thermalsealexperts.com/air03.php

Here's one example, but this study was conducted for foam roofs.

[Kevin A. Richardson]

Originally Posted by prussell

www.thermalsealexperts.com/air03.php

Here's one example, but this study was conducted for foam roofs.

OK, thx.....I'll check it out

Kevin

[Kevin A. Richardson]

Originally Posted by prussell

Everything you posted is some what correct, all depends on type of construction.

I have yet to see proper air sealing at the soffit in new construction, this needs to be completed while the home is framed.

Can you explain how to properly air seal the top plate and soffit, post construction?

Well, if we are talking about a standard gable style roof where the insulation is installed in the floor of the attic, it is accomplished by doing the following:

1. Insulation contractor will divide the attic into four quadrants. Then, start at one quadrant and remove or push back the existing insulation. Once the the insulation is removed, the use two-part expanding foam to seal the top plates and attic bypasses (plumbing stacks, exhaust fans, recessed lights, etc.).

2. After air sealing, they will put back the existing insulation and top off with blown in cellulose. This is usually called an "Air Sealing and Insulation Energy Savers" package. At least in my area

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/

Kevin