Measuring PSI

[Richard W. Washington]

What kind of verbage are you guys putting regarding the water supply PSI? I understand the scope is between 30 & 80. I'd like to tell clients something more than its within range if its say 40. Had a client concerned that since it was 40 that he would have a problem since it was near the low side. I always take mine at the hose bib closest the shutoff valve as well. Do any of you do differently?

[David A. Andersen]

Water pressure is not always related to volume.

Or should I say, higher pressure does not insure higher volume.

If the pressure is controlled with a regulator, low pressure remains the same (as does the volume) if the street pressure is higher. If there is no regulator, pressure will fall when you open valves and flow will drop.

WHich do you have?

[Joe Funderburk, CMI]

I have ranges selected. Like so:

20 - 30 psi (TOO LOW!)
30 - 40 psi (TOO LOW!)
40 - 50 psi (acceptable)
50 - 60 psi (acceptable
...
80 - 90 psi (TOO HIGH!)
90 - 100 psi (TOO HIGH!)

I let them know the range and refer them to a plumber and installation of a pressure regulator when appropriate.

[Michael R. Boyett]

TREC requires the inspector to report as deficient "water pressure below 40 psi or above 80 psi static;". I have a clause in all of my reports that reads:

Note: Water pressure can vary for numerous reasons. Demands upon the public or private water supply system, ambient temperature, equipment failure, etc can all affect the pressure. The home's water pressure should be tested annually using an inexpensive gauge available at most home products or hardware stores.

I will also add the following if needed:

Water pressure, as measured with an analog gauge at an exterior hose bibb or faucet, is not within the required 40-80 psi (lbs per square inch). I recommend the client have a qualified, licensed plumber further investigate and repair if needed.

I may verbally tell them a plumber may suggest a PRV if the pressure is too high and that the water service provider may need to be consulted if the pressure is too low and a PRV is not present, otherwise the plumber may be able to adjust the PRV to increase the pressure.

[mnahrgang]

The water pressure at the exterior hose bib was 90 psi. Excessive water pressure contributes to the premature failure of water using appliances and fixtures, loud knocking of the pipes, and uncomfortable showers. When the pressure from the public water main or private well exceeds 80 psi, a pressure-reducing valve or regulator should be installed at the point where the water service pipe enters the dwelling. The pressure regulator should be installed immediately downstream of the main shutoff valve.

[Richard W. Washington]

Originally Posted by dandersen

Water pressure is not always related to volume.

Or should I say, higher pressure does not insure higher volume.

If the pressure is controlled with a regulator, low pressure remains the same (as does the volume) if the street pressure is higher. If there is no regulator, pressure will fall when you open valves and flow will drop.

WHich do you have?

There is no regulator. I am just measuring with an analog tool.

[Richard W. Washington]

Originally Posted by mboyett

TREC requires the inspector to report as deficient "water pressure below 40 psi or above 80 psi static;". I have a clause in all of my reports that reads:
I will also add the following if needed:
I may verbally tell them a plumber may suggest a PRV if the pressure is too high and that the water service provider may need to be consulted if the pressure is too low and a PRV is not present, otherwise the plumber may be able to adjust the PRV to increase the pressure.

PRV?? Pressure reducting valve.

[Michael R. Boyett]

Yes..

[rspermo]

Richard,

I take it at the closet bibb and if it is near 40 or 80 I take another at the far bibb. My last two inspections were 95 and 110!

[John Cahill]

I try to keep it simple and quick. Too much advice clouds the more improtant items.

1) "Static pressure was between 40 to 80 psi at the time of inspection. Pressure can vary for many reasons and future performance is undetermined."

2) "Pressure was under 40 psi and is considered deficient."

3) "Pressure was over 80 psi and is considered deficient. I did not find a pressure regulator. Have plumber determine if pressure regulator is present and adjust pressure as needed." Note: no comment on pressure regulators is required unless the pressure is over 80. If pressure is over 80 it is automatically deficient therefore I defer inspection for the regulator to the plumber.

[S. Craig Lemmon]

Just a point of observation

what type of pressure gauge are you using?

a cheap 10 dollar unit has a high failure rate and will start to give false readings.

buy a glycerin filled guage for a more accurate reading.

If you do write up as deficient the PSI and the need for a pressure reducing valve, you need to also make mention the need for a thermal expansion tank in the system as you now have created a closed loop system

Craig Lemmon- CMI
REI of TEXAS LLC

[Marcel R. Cyr]

Your Pressure is to damn high, could you please install a pressure reducing vessel before I blow my veins.

[David A. Andersen]

Originally Posted by rspermo

Richard,

I take it at the closet bibb and if it is near 40 or 80 I take another at the far bibb. My last two inspections were 95 and 110!

What is the reason for taking another pressure reading on a closed system?

[Marcel R. Cyr]

I agree David, Pressure should be the same no matter where you take it, unless there is a PRV controlling that particular spigot. Volume might differ, but pressure should be the same.

[mleahey]

How do you measure psi at an exterior hose bib that has an anti-siphon or backflow valve connected to it?