Pool/Spa Inspection contract.

Local Inspection Issues Florida and SUNachi Inspectors
1

Looking for a pool/spa inspection contract. Can anyone point me to a downloadable version?

2

This is what I have on my pool page:

This inspection is a visual inspection only. Some leaks may not be visible at the time of inspection.
Magnum Inspections Inc. will not be responsible for any missing safety items or hidden defects.
Any pool safety items required by local codes should be present prior to closing.
If the client is unsure of the code requirements, the local code enforcement agency should be contacted prior to closing and all requirements should be met prior to closing.

3

…and I have this on mine:

Inspection was limited to those areas which are above ground or water level. The only way to detect an underground leak in a supply line, buried pipe fitting, or pool surface crack is by observation of the persistent and continuous loss of water from the pool over an extended period of time.

Pool filtering devices are not disassembled to determine the condition of any installed filter elements. Operation of time clock motors and thermostatic temperature controls cannot be verified during a visual inspection. Pilot lights on LP gas pool heaters are not lit during the inspection.

If not already installed, it is recommended that any doors and/or windows adjacent to the pool have alarm sensors installed to improve pool safety.

4

Just out of curiosity, what standards are you guys using when you inspect a pool?

5

Mine.

6

Add this disclaimer: The pool does not conform to all current safety standards. Remove it when necessary, include pool safety literature easily available from th state county or feds. I also say this: Pools are dangerous, the risk of drowning death or serious injury to invited or uninvited guests poses a financial risk to the property owner. The risk is even higher in the event that young children or intoxicated adults are allowed access.

7

To have adequate and functional water flow through the pool system, there are several things that need to be in good shape:

  • There has to be enough water in the pool or spa. Check the level of the water.
  • There shouldn’t be any water leaks at the plumbing connections or equipment.
  • All of the valves should be fully open.
  • There shouldn’t be any trapped air in the system. Air at the filter tank should be purged routinely.
  • The skimmer and main drain should be clear of blockage and debris. Skimmers require cleaning.
  • The strainer pot at the pump should be cleaned routinely.
  • There might be an imbalance of the water chemistry, causing scaling. Check for scale-causing clogging or restriction of water flow.
  • The heater should be on and activated. The gas shut-off valve should be open. The switch should be on. Check for a pilot light, ignition, or flame at the fuel-fired heater. Check the level in the propane storage tank.
  • The thermostat should be connected, active and set properly.

Pool and Spa Inspection Checklist
The following inspection checklist was adapted from the guidelines recommended by the National Swimming Pool Foundation. Use the checklist as a starting point in developing your own checklist that fits your inspection procedure and needs.
The inspector should check the following:

  • Adequate fencing, gates, barriers, alarms, and/or other protective devices are installed.
  • Adequate storage space is provided for equipment.
  • Decks around pool are not cluttered.
  • The pool is covered when not in use.
  • Surfaces leading to the pool, including the deck and steps, are slip-resistant.
  • Decks on all sides of the pool meet minimum safety standards.
  • The deck is separated from the pool wall perimeter.
  • There are no standing puddles on the deck.
  • All ladders, stanchions, chairs, rails, treads, plates, and other deck equipment are tightly secured in place.
  • An adequate means of egress from the pool is provided.
  • Steps, treads, ramps, ledges, and any other protrusions into the pool are marked with a contrasting color coating or tile on both the top and vertical rise.
  • No unpleasant odors or irritating fumes are apparent.
  • No physical damage is apparent at the pool equipment.
  • Main drain grates are bolted securely to the pool’s bottom.
  • Grates are visible from the deck, with no damage apparent.
  • Drain covers are installed.
  • Water return inlets are installed.
  • The pool is vacuumed daily.
  • No debris is visible. The water is clean.
  • There’s no discoloration of the water.
  • Algae growth is not visible.
  • The pool water is tested at the frequency required or desired.
  • All water quality and chemical levels are within acceptable ranges during the most current test.
  • Bacteriological water analysis is performed on a regular basis.
  • Water temperature is maintained within acceptable levels and is appropriate for the primary activities being conducted in the pool.
  • The water temperature has been measured and recorded.
  • The type of heater is identified.
  • Efficiency and BTU ratings of the heater are identified.
  • The heater is installed on a level, non-combustible base.
  • Safety devices are installed on the heater.
  • The thermostat is identified and located.
  • Check valves between the heater and filter are installed.
  • Bonding and grounding are visible.
  • The heater is installed downstream of the pump and filter.
  • A solar-heating system is installed.
  • The solar-heating system type is identified.
  • The solar-heating system is active.
  • Pool chemicals are stored a safe distance away from the heater.
  • Adequate clearances around the heater are maintained.
  • Coping stones and tiles are not chipped, cracked or loose.
  • The pool shell appears smooth, without readily visible defects.
  • There is no visible surface staining.
  • The water level appears to be maintained to allow for the removal of floating debris.
  • The water level appears at the proper height to allow continuous overflow of water into the gutters or skimmers.
  • Skimmer weirs, skimmer baskets, deck covers, and flow-adjustment devices are installed.
  • Lights are installed and are operational.
  • The type, number and wattage of deck lighting are identified.
  • The number of underwater lights is noted.
  • GFCIs are installed.
  • Electrical wiring is not passing directly over the pool or spa.
  • Hose bibs are installed near the pool.
  • No apparent defects or signs of repair are observed at the diving board.
  • The manufacturer of the diving board is visible on the board itself.
  • The centrifugal pump is secured to its base and is operating quietly.
  • The hair and lint strainer basket is clean of debris.
  • The type of pipe has been identified.
  • Pipes and fittings are not leaking.
  • Pipes are supported adequately.
  • Pipes are not showing signs of calcification, corrosion or deterioration.
  • Air pressure-relief valves are installed on all pressure filter tanks.
  • Filter tanks are accessible.
  • The filter’s brand is identified.
  • A clean sight glass or visual outfall of at least 3 feet has been provided.
  • The pressurized filter tanks and hair and lint traps are not leaking and are properly sealed.
  • All piping, filters and components that are part of the system are labeled, tagged, color-coded or otherwise identified.
  • A spa is installed.
  • The spa is operational.
  • A spa cover is installed.
  • No physical damage is apparent at the spa.
  • A spa timer is installed and not reachable by a spa user.
  • The emergency shut-off switch for the spa is installed and clearly labeled.
  • The spa appears clean and adequately maintained.
8

I got that checklist from the best course on inspecting pools and spas: http://www.nachi.org/pool-spa-course.htm

(It is a Florida DBPR-approved course BTW)

9

Inspecting team check a very large number of cases including decking, draining, pool surface, pump/motor observation and many more to be inspect.

10

As Nick points out the NACHI pool and spa course is very good, but it’s written for the whole country and is not Florida specific.

I marked some of the points in Nick’s post that differ from what you’ll see in Florida in red and put my comments/clarifications below them in blue. You can find more pool specific information at www.floridapoolpro.com and www.apsp.org

Adequate flow rate is very important but unless you do the required measurements and calculations for total dynamic head and compare it to the pump curve for the brand and model that’s present you won’t be able to say with confidence whether it is present or not in most residential pools (commercial pools are required to have a flow working meter). The next best thing would be to use a rule of thumb as to whether the pipe size is adequate. Generally - divide the gallons by 360, this will give you the flow needed to turn the water over in 6 hours (the recommended maximum). 1.5 inch pipe can handle up to about 51 gpm with out exceeding the maximum allowed velocity and 2 inch pipe can handle about 84 gpm.

Do not turn valves (handles are often prone to breakage) or operate controls your not familiar with, it’s way too easy to build pressure or vacuum where it shouldn’t be and repairs can be costly.

Last caution: most defendants in pool injury cases are pulled in under “failure to notify” so if you’re going to do pool inspections be VERY aware of all the safety regs and always suggest bringing the pool up to current safety standards. In other words CYA

I know the OP asked about pool inspection contracts or PIAs but the best thing would realy be to come up with an SOP your comfortable with, write an agreement that reflects that SOP and then have your lawyer review it. Don’t just find some one else’s and use it.

Just so you know I’m not blowing smoke, I’m an inspector that is also an active Florida Certified commercial Pool and spa Contractor, a member on the board of directors and builders council for the FSPA, and a past member of the ASTM f15.51 writing commitee.

11

Thank you Lawrence, some great info there for us here in the Sunshine State.
How often are the codes reviewed/amended for the state? How often do you find city/county amendments to the code and which code is specifically used for pools and spas?
Thanks for your help.

12

We use the FBC 2010 residential pool code (section 40 if I remember right) , the FBC 2010 existing building code and the 2010 NEC and then chapter 64-9e for commercial pools. Then we have several statutes to consider like the Florida pool safety act (chapter515) and federal stuff like VGB and the ADA. The list is quite extensive and getting longer all the time.

Right now we’re on a three year cycle. They state adopts a code, there is a “glitch” cycle that uses up about a year and if all goes well they adopt an updated code, follow that for a year or two and repeat. the codes we adopt are usually a couple of years in arrears for instance we’re using the 2010 code now.

City and county amendments to any of our FBC are not allowed, unless the jurisdiction can show proof that the area has some special condition that would require it. At one time Volusha County tried to ban all aluminum cable, even for service entries, claiming the salt air caused excessive corrosion (only in Volusha of course). They got shot down rather quickly. Some cities and counties will pass ordnances to try and get around it but not many. Then we have deed restrictions and home owner associations to deal with too. (I’m not whining really just explaining it can be complicated)

Florida uses its own pool code at this time but a push is on for us to use the ICC’s new pool code. Those of us in the pool industry recognize the IPSC as a good code but are against its adoption at this time because of major changes in our own commercial pool laws that we feel need to be finalized and assimilated first.