Roof plumbing vent flashing.

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by ryoung7

Again I see no red flag infractions from your photo.

The explanation of your observation leaves me asking questions and should not.

Could you explain to me the violations please so I may understand.

Robert, explain how water entering crack at "tar flashing" at uphill side of roof/flashing will escape?

[Pete Campbell]

What are you calling improper and what are they irate about?

[Pete Campbell]

Originally Posted by ryoung7

Now to call it out is questionable in my opinion.
Did you see water stains on the roofs decking in the attic where the plumbing stack protrusions exited the roof?
Did you see a nail pattern that would indicate they nailed the metal flashing for the plumbing and wetstackprotrustions ?
This may be only a cosmetic issue. The plastic cement may have been added as a precautionary measure.
SUSPECT: Roof protrusions venting flashing have been sealed with bitumen asphalt caulk around the asphalt shingle cuts and stack only.
This may have been a precautionary measure only.
IE: ONLY If you found no signs of staing.
RECOMMEND: A licensed registered roofing company do a roof deck parameter investigation of all flashing, protrusions for weather and water entry .

I agree with Robert.

Except: I would not Recommend to call someone to do the job I was hired to do in Fort Pierce, FL.

[Pete Campbell]

Originally Posted by ryoung7

Speculation without merit can and will put you and your E&O to the test.
Attachment 52172

[Pete Campbell]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

Robert, explain how water entering crack at "tar flashing" at uphill side of roof/flashing will escape?

Chris, that 'crack' is not in 'tar flashing'. That spot is almost impossible to keep the shingle sealed down onto the flange below and does not necessarily indicate a leak.

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by pcampbell

What are you calling improper and what are they irate about?

If you mean this.

It's wrong, plain and simple.



This is correct install.

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by pcampbell

Chris, that 'crack' is not in 'tar flashing'. That spot is almost impossible to keep the shingle sealed down onto the flange below and does not necessarily indicate a leak.

The crack is at the tar/boot connection and it's wrong. When water enters the "crack" how/where does it exit?

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

1.) I see the bitumen asphalt has de-laminated or separated from the rubber and the cut asphalt shingles.


The rubber appears to be intact and almost new.

2.) Here is a dried out rubber boot.
It is plain to see the rubber has openings in the rubber elastic membrane.
Once pliable to a degree is now worn can cracked.
The sun is the major ingredient in the decomposition of the rubber.
Photo 2 is a two component plumbing flange. Aluminum and rubber. The rubber boots exterior may have a circumference that is expanded. The expanded rubber has been folded into a shaped cup or seal and locked through compression.
You can see the dried, cracked, worn rubber.


3.) The third photo is a rubber boot.
It also comes in other pliable materials.


4.) The last photo is what I mostly installed with company's that regarded their work as professional and did not want comebacks.
In the late 70's and early eighties copper was the material of choice.


I am just asking the HI for his observation to his hypotheses.
Why does he think this is a red flag or improper installation technique.


There are several types, stiles and degrees of angles in plumbing protrusion flanges or wet stack flashing boots
Also that Bitumen caulk is a main stay for roofers.

I would look for water entry points once my roof inspection is over.
I again have a unfair advantage. It has been my life's work.
I enjoy learning the proper technical narrative.
It was my weak suite that still needs much work.
I am not trying to demote the HI.
Only trying to impress a observation technique.
Sorry if my narrative is harsh.

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Originally Posted by ccurrins

If you mean this.

It's wrong, plain and simple.



This is correct install.

The second photo is incorrect.
The flange or flashing should be totally covered by the shingle layers.
The flange should be fastened to the deck or a measurement should have been taken to line up the courses of shingles.
A full shingle must cover past the 50% percent mark on the flanges protrusion.

No tab notches as in the photo.
A full width of a shingle. No tabs allowed. The back portion would be the start on that layout.
Then you apply the next shingle atop and do your cuts around the circumference.
Proper way in my opinion.
You nail the flange to the deck.
a.) First apply bitumen caulk to the base,
2.) nail the flange to the deck.
3. Start covering the flanges metal with shingles cutting the circumference as you go higher.

That is how I was taught by the white hat code inspectors back in the late 1970's
That is the proper technique as far as I am concerned.
Yes you can use another methods.
The 50% percent as mentioned.
I will look for the NRCA code requirement.

First the flange and build up the plies of shingles over the flange.

[Christopher Currins]

Originally Posted by ryoung7

The second photo is incorrect.
The flange or flashing should be totally covered by the shingle layers.
The flange should be fastened to the deck or a measurement should have been taken to line up the courses of shingles.
A full shingle must cover past the 50% percent mark on the flanges protrusion.
Attachment 52191
No tab notches as in the photo.
A full width of a shingle. No tabs allowed. The back portion would be the start on that layout.
Then you apply the next shingle atop and do your cuts around the circumference.
Proper way in my opinion.
You nail the flange to the deck.
a.) First apply bitumen caulk to the base,
2.) nail the flange to the deck.
3. Start covering the flanges metal with shingles cutting the circumference as you go higher.

That is how I was taught by the white hat code inspectors back in the late 1970's
That is the proper technique as far as I am concerned.
Yes you can use another methods.
The 50% percent as mentioned.
I will look for the NRCA code requirement. Try manufacturer's installation instructions

First the flange and build up the plies of shingles over the flange.

You're entitled to believe what you want.

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Appears you are right MR. Currings.
I will find the artical.

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Here is what I tried to explain and did a bugger of a job doing so.
Thanks MR. Currin's.
Soil vents.http://www.renovation-headquarters.c...-vent-pipe.htm

[Brian C. Hoagland]

I'd call it out as an area of concern, the way the shingles cover the down slope portion of the flashing leads me to believe the shingles may be on top of the flashing. Water may run all the way down the underlayment and emerge in an area remote from the stack where it is not visible from the attic. Also if this is in a climate where ice could form it could heave the shingles if it penetrated to an underlayment.

When in doubt, call it out.

[ROBERT V. YOUNG]

Originally Posted by bhoagland

I'd call it out as an area of concern, the way the shingles cover the down slope portion of the flashing leads me to believe the shingles may be on top of the flashing. Water may run all the way down the underlayment and emerge in an area remote from the stack where it is not visible from the attic. Also if this is in a climate where ice could form it could heave the shingles if it penetrated to an underlayment.
The shingles covering the downward slope is of no concern.
Yes more fastener holes but bitumen asphalt cement is normally covering the bottom of the flanges plate.

Those soil stacks are exposed cast
In Montreal,tThey would be fully flashed with galvanized or aluminum. Caps or hats designed to redirect condensation and a smaller opening of 2.1/2 inchs for a 4" wet stack vent.
I hope to have metal illustrations soon.
Roofing, and duct work. Lapping, locks, tools.


When in doubt, call it out.

I have ti increase my narratives description.
shingles cover the down slope portion.

[Pete Campbell]

"First the flange and build up the plies of shingles over the flange."

Yes.

Chris, you still do not have a proven leak. The water that may go in that little crack should hit the flange and exit from under the shingle(s).