Need clairifications!!

Home was built in 1996.

Since we are not doing code inspections and I dont know what the codes where in 1996 how would you report the following.

2006 water tank with plastic Pex. The hot water line is within 6 inches.

Garage attic access has plywood. Is a fire rated drywall needed?

Green bonding screw in main panel not attached. Is it required to have a bonding strap or is the screw need to be removed.

There is no clearance at the drywall in the utility closet for the B vent flue.

No auto closure on garage entry door.

Remember house is 1996. How would you report these conditions if you would report them at all.

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85706 Broadview Heights 001 (Small).jpg

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How about this Dave:

PEX is OK no problem just report as type

Garage OK if there is no access to the main attic from the garage attic

I don’t see anything wrong with the panel- black cable with white stripe would be service ground and I think I see a ground wire at the top left (can’t see where it ends)

I would report insufficient clearance from combustibles recommend repair as necessary fro the “b” vent.

Suggest door closer be installed on garage door for safety.

Hope this helps

Cheers

David,

My typical response is to report what I see. I cite current building and safety standards to illustrate what is currently the minimum safety requirement and offer a description or supporting documentation (where available) for why it is a good idea. I recommend upgrading, while mentioning that it is not required to do so, as long as the existing conditions complied with previous building and safety standards.

http://www.ppfahome.org/pdf/PEX%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf

Douglas

The Pex manufactures instuctions on page 5 indicate a 18 inch clearance from the tank.
](http://http://www.ppfahome.org/pdf/PEX%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf)

David, I think you picked up most everything, but I couldn’t tell if the flue had 3 screws per connection by the picture…I didn’t see any. I believe the plastic water lines are to be 12-18" away from the entry point of the tank, I forget the exact " right off the top of my head. You’re also right about the fire stop, not visible, though sometimes I’ve found they are on the backside of the drywall. Should still have clearance of 1" to combustibles anyway.

I would write them up as you’ve noted. Electrical is not done as I’ve been used to seeing in newer homes. Usually neutrals all to one bar and grounds all to another bar fixed to panel box. The bar on the right side is attached to neutral buss at the top…can’t see how the left side is though? I’m sure one of our elec. wizards can and will give you the low down on that. Attic hatch door should be fire-rated if it’s a shared/common attic.

oops missed the measurement in Dave’s post

Guess I don’t get a green box!

Cheers

Is that flue pipe going down hill or did you twist the picture

Drywall is not considered combustible.
See top of page 2.
http://lafarge-na.com/wps/wcm/resources/file/ebb41c4ca62a598/Drywall%20MSDS%205.pdf

The green panel bonding screw is always needed. Through either neutral or ground bus in service equipment panels (the first point of disconnect) and through the ground bus only in load side panels (sub panels).

David

Curious about the distance between the single wall (sheetmetal) flue vent pipe off the Water Heater and the PVC pipe next to it. By the way, is that PVC pipe a drain or another flue vent or what. Either way single wall FV requires a minimum 6" clearance from any combustable material (PVC incl.).